Plymouthy Adams

maybe we all are overlooking the fact he may have a pedal car, would explain a lot....😁

that is basically the recommended shock through 54...(was at one time the go to per rockauto)...worked on mine till I did the relocation to the frame.

while they are as you said "just shocks" they also have to be correct size and attachment configuration......also you could be a bit more proactive in your search.... Monroe 5752 for sale | eBay

odds are, if the PO repaired these there is likely new metal welded without the rectangular holes. If the PO patched these, there is likely just bondo where these hole may have been and good possibility the metal in not there to shape the hole anymore. You could well be kicking a can of worms here, can of tin worms that is. Best of luck on this exploration adventure.

as the rocker trim fastens in a manner that the lower edge hangs free from the car (clip design) with a car that does not have the rectangular holes for the stock clip, suggest mounting these with an aluminum plate, some 3/32 thick between the clip and the rocker. In mounting mine this is what I did and I am totally pleased with the results. Rocker covers often do not have the rectangular holes as a feature in aftermarket parts. You should be able to see these backing plates in place here. The most forward and aft brackets bolt in place...

if you have the part number shop about for better prices on name brands if that is important to you. If you do not have the part numbers, search here will get them, else any OTC online will net these also.....just be a bit proactive, none of this is really hidden knowledge.

suspension seems to be holding up well new twist to smashed Halloween orange pumpkin

yes tell her it was fine before she got there.........tell us when the bandages are removed...

the gas cap should be vented...unloosen is to tighten, but really if you have pressure, check the vent hole, this however is usually found when you are unable to draw fuel while driving....Hope the carb you found is not in worse condition than that of what you have on there now....there is just the slim chance you have nothing wrong outside of high float level given the likelihood you are running ethanol blend fuel. Suggest you visit this, can be done on the car in a matter of minutes. The idea of having a good spare carb built and stored away is good idea. Check the throttle shaft and bushing close.

your cars fuel pump would have to continue to run for a constant flow from a float leak...where as these fumes could be the sign of too high a float level and in conjunction of heat saturation on parking inside with a hot engine...this would cause for an excessive amount of raw gasoline. The fuel will continue to expand with the heat soak and result in chamber overflow.

you forgetting to put on the suntan lotion and sunglasses...at the elevated temps it is often hard to denote a leak as the evaporation process is rather rapid if just a very small seepage...gas fumes are heavy and tend to stay closer to ground level. Never think your tank is intact either, these cars often have rusted out places at the very top of the tank...unless it sloshes when shaken left to right.....the fumes will be plentiful, no apparent liquid seen.

it is easy to assume anything....winter is coming, odds are your car will be down for bit of time, heck even a hurricane can place you in an immobile period. suggest you take the time to investigate....it is a manner of time now or time later, time now, tear it down and be sure....time later try to install after ordering to find your assumption was wrong,...roll of the dice on what best suits you....maybe there is a shop near you that can rebuild your disc and resurface/tweak your plate, have you checked it this option is available? Time to return an item and get credit before they ship another can sometimes be a bit lengthy.

these are rare items to find not full of holes creases and flattened spots...curb appeal....I have maybe 4 sets of these and none worthy of the time and trouble to work. I opted instead for a set of the same length, slightly different profile and worked them to fit my bz cpe. For grand sum of 10.00 for the pair and new clips that attach easier than the originals for 14.00 delivered...just hard not to work the magic with these....not stock...but that what makes them so much the better, the bit of dare to be different.

and leave the car attached......lol

that item would not be difficult to make......

be sure the primer you are using will not react with the seam sealer....yes...it can cause you major issue....not all systems are compatible.

I use 3M brushable seam sealer.....there are other brands also...have use other names with as good a result. Got a car here I painted in 1984 over the 3M seam sealer and it is as nice today as it was back then.

that car is pocessed....trunk lid key number------------------666 Is the C for Christine the 1st.

you need to get up to speed with the ignition system and what creates the spark and trouble shoot from there....if you get a strong spark with the screwdriver arcing the points, your coil is working.....sounds like you points are not opening at all (this is when the spark is created on collapse of the field inside the coil) OR you have shorted the two contacts at the wiring connector at the points. By your note you saying you are holding the high tension at the distributor to ground....it must not be ground but a gap so you can see the secondary voltage spark as it jumps the gap. Again, check for short in distributor.

I have on hand a vintage wheel balancer. I picked this unit up years ago and never have messed with it. Heavy unit and would like to check it out but some conflicting data at present, wired at plug for 110 but data tag says 230. The data tag is the cover to the electrical contact field for wiring and under the lid is small schematic. Sadly the schematic is messed up in the middle section to the point I cannot read it. Inputs are shown but does not indicate that 230 by lack of noting line 1 and line 2 inputs. There is a note below that I cannot read but think it states (double motor) The spin motor is a Lamb (Ametek) 1s14790 where the first digit could also be an I possibily. It is an AC brush style cast housing and well made. Nothing on the internet come close to this motor by number or image search. Stuck on this one a bit. Question for the masses, does anyone have one of these in captivity that could remove the cover and scan/photograph their schematic...or...even better, the odds of having a book on hand with a schematic inside. Operation manual I did find searching but nothing on wiring at this time. Reaching out on this one and hoping for the best....thanks for your time.

coming out of the starter gate is Doug as they near the first turn and as he closes to the inside...

Lot of dealerships made money selling these trim options allowing also for their shop personnel to make a living also. There was 3 trim packges available for 54 and my Savoy got two of the three from the factory and it is definitely full of bling bling. I have all the parts that made up the third option plus the optional Cello wire wheel caps. Only thing I do not have is the blonde in the advertisement photo....that accessory is always high maintenance and costly to replace as it ages.

JC Whitney will exchange that for you......lol That is the IHC Scout is it not. Not seen one that old in quite some time around these parts. IF it is around, they want restored prices for junk cars....reason they still sitting behind barns and in the woods. They will rot in place before sold and when sold, the heirs are doing the crushing run to turn the property for cash. They don't want this stuff and smart enough to recognize it is a lost cause.

Plymouth learned the market trick of length in 54 with the peaked headlight bezels and adding the manner of rear overriders for that 'bigger car' look. The Dodge often had the advantage of better designer cues on trim for sure which garnered that extra cost at he dealership I suppose. The poor ole DeSoto...not much you can do with a mud fence left outside in the downpour.