Plymouthy Adams

made of pasta but hardened by exposure to a nuclear reactor....😃 If you want to consider some source on the internet.......this is for you: Heat treated SAE 5160 steel has been the standard material for sway bars for about the last 60 years

check your trinary switch

when you consider the spring and its tension at throttle speeds and the wear it will see as the tension builds at x position at x speed you can see the reason the bushing will wear in an elongated pattern thus resulting in a slight ramp on the bush to fully reset...thus the added spring tension....If you rebushed the shaft or renew the shaft if it also displaying wear, then the light spring will suffice for a general long use with no problems...but this is not to say that you will immediately start this process again on operation....go ahead and make it drive by wire....(you may need to go to 12 volts for this...lol)

12V Automotive air-conditioner Electric A/C Compressor Kit Universal For Cars | eBay While you will not have parasitic loss with the compressor, you will be making up for that loss with the alternator....you not getting out alive if that is what you thinking.....lol alternator with the proper IL at idle lets just say that specs are not the forefront of marketing, it is computer says fit and you live with that these days it seems. We know the IR as that is going be withe the stated 100A unit....but ability to sustain this unit when idling at a stop light you going to want to be able to feed the system without total dependency on the battery. A high reserve battery will be a must also. ANY TAKERS.....? considering one now for an LBC.....

I went this way given I had to physically relocate the stock sway bar with the modifications to the front of the chassis with install of a big block mopar and other mods for cooling, AC install and what not needing cosideration....simple bolt in unit what with a couple homebrew brackets....

in the square back of the building, isn't that a Delorean...

I've built a model or two in my youth....and I admit to a few miniatures of a few cars I do own in full size. Am sure everyone here has a few build models under their belt or collected a scale model of a car they have either owned in the past or currently own now. That is a stack of boxes for sure.

Hey Andy, this forum has more it fair share of incomplete cars now......😁 come to think of it...might be right at home with no wheels, tires or engine.

brother with the same mother?

so can we say.....you are on a roll........!!!!

as for battery fires.....just say thanks when it come time to pay your upcharged motorist insurance.....when you are off the grid and sweating in the heat, again say thanks for the battery chargers you off setting if not by direct funds, by direct inconvenience. Sometime I think we are not advancing at all....just getting a bit too big for our britches.

I saw two of the Tesla rigs last weekend along I-75 but could not get any indication of driver or AI....windows were totally black looking from my angle of view. The Tesla rig I think is enough for me to repeal the 'ugliest truck in the world' from Powell to Tesla but for the life of me, I cannot call that Tesla thing a real truck.....

A model of the 51/52 would be moderately received I am thinking and only become a reality if someone in the business of scale model manufacturing stumbled upon the fact a close family member had one back in the day and then likely would have to be the convertible or the Cranbrook Belvedere then maybe commission a short run of the model of the now more popular and desirable real life car. I suspect this may not come to pass.

just bring back Chrysler, the model will make themselves available as they are synonymous with the brand...but to poor company has been raped twice and their technology exploited and distributed on too many brand x cars....world class can still have no class....

running 50 series tires may also lessen the chance of fender lip to tire rub when maneuvering at greater speeds also and at that may necessitate a bit of ride height adjustment....but for sure even with a less tall tire, the width is great for installing just the same....My Plymouth looked great with 8" widths also...but for sure that width is to the outside of the wheel....while not really an issue except to say splashing the dogleg in the front, the rears were a total no-go from the git-go. I did not want to reprogram the computer is why I stuck with the 225/75R16's. Personally I would liked to have stayed about 205 but did not want to carry this thing to a dealer as I do not have a tuner. I think I now have access to one as my bud stated he has one but not got the book on the model he has so cannot say for certain. I will do my tweak and likely add a panhard rod.

I run some good size meat on my 48 but suffice it to say am not stock in a lot of the drive train engine and suspensio....but with 225/75R16's I am at the point where you have to be cautious on hard cornering. For some reason while the axle is properly positioned with the frame, there is a slight variance in the frame to fender opening probably what Grep is also experiencing. I have a fix on paper but alas not done the actual mod to correct for this. Another item you will wish to add into your calculation for any wheel/tire upgrades..Measuring two other P15's here, all three were off a bit from the others....not an absolute as I have found.

one note here on the rear with wider wheels. The body will need be jacked fairly high to get the clearance needed to insert the wheel between the hub and the lip of the fender...often many folks don't like the height needed for a stock rim/tire let along going real wide here...do not overlook this with your pending measurements. See about borrowing a wheel/tire assembly of the size you intend to run for test fit.

the only reason to use widened wheels as I can see it would be to use stock poverty style hubcaps. If the poverty caps are not going to be used....then basically the choices are good for steel wheels, modern wheels from mopar run rather some large offsets making use with stock axles an adventure with use of spacers. Modern axles are a bit wider if you think to change them out for the better ratio, then you can opt for the modern alloy. Of course the front will still have need of adapters, upgrade here is involved.

this may sound a bit silly to some but did you check the fuse with the ohm meter, could be an open inside one of the end caps and not readily seen by the naked eye.....

check you light housing and sockets also....they could have been pulled taunt a bit, cut the insulation, pulled a pin in the socket to lay against the housing.....do not overlook your license plate light in this.

likely self inflicted wound, go carefully back over your work as you stated, was good before now bad after your maintenance action....look close for a pinched harness/wiring to the rear.....

maybe that happens when you scream....😱

all my experience with garage door rollers has been with all metal wheels and bearings...but......I also admit I have not installed a new garage door in over 25 years....with the latest door, a 10 x 10 curtain style. These seem to rely heavy on nylon bushes and torsion springs. I took apart one of these last month helping a friend with a busted spring so to order the correct springs to repair this door. These are not what I will call a fun job.....he ordered springs but so far that is as far into the repair as he has progressed....am sure I will be helping with this repair.

I have been growing the larger sweet onions for a couple years now and they are sweet and no heat and grow to an decent size bulb.....you can eat them like an apple. I have no scientific data as to why no heat but I got a good theory. When I plant I cut in some new top soil, it is mainly composted oak chips.....if this is prime for the result I get, I cannot prove, but they do well in this mix....so will continue the process. This year I cut in a lot of horse manure into my buckets and left to further decompose for spring planting, results were very noticeable. I will do that again this winter. Sad part is I get zero pollination for squash and zucchini. My pollinators are mainly carpenter bees....big commercial farming of cotton, soy, peanuts and such the chemicals constantly used is killing our pollinators. This year the surround fields were planted with watermelons....they rented bee supers for pollination, I benefitted from that this year.

most of the ever dry kits keep the wires dry but does not prevent water sitting in the plug well and in facts traps it there for longer time if not driven daily to evaporate the water with the added heat from running the engine. Recall a few comments on here with the horror stories of plug removal (actual breaking) with these installed on engine left to sit.