Plymouthy Adams

For sure, no aluminum thus the reply that he is using the wrong tap/drilling as he stated the A9 product in his approach to the task.....

I have never been that fond of tap-eze and any of the products for aluminum such as what you show. Next time you wish to tap an aluminum hole, use a bar of soap....drag the tap across the soap bar filling between the cutting blades of the tap and you should have a smooth and clean cut....and I am not meaning soap clean either. For steel, good oil and or grease...grease if you wishing to keep chips from falling through...start, go a few turns....back it out, clean the chips, fresh grease to trap the next chips.

the hy-drive was a true torque converter as compared to a fluid coupler. The hy-drive was offered with the 218 as a boost in performance as the torque was multiplied and the result was so good that they offered better gearing in first, second and a bump in higher ratio in the final drive. Win win across the entire line up save for the shared oil. The 54 model year in mid production saw the 230 installed in the Plymouth and was coupled solely with the Powerflite trans. 55 model year saw the 230 across the board in Plymouth and the 218 was history. 1954 was the only year Plymouth offered the flathead 6 in two different displacements thus a diamond was added to the engine block ID plate to denote the 230 from the otherwise plain jane 218.

just pull the pump, use the gasket as a template, cut a plate out of aluminum or steel, your call, drill the holes, make a new gasket and close off the holes...you done...nothing at all hard about this....take it to the buffer and put a high gloss shine on it...you may find one at the BBS but I am not sure of the pattern matching the SBC that is normally stocked...take your gasket and again, do a match.

the pump will pull a bit, closer to the source the better the pulling it is however an excellent pusher. I placed my fuel pump in what is similar to your description. One of the few tasks that I did not photograph it seems...

that style shock mount was designed to sit on the top of the frame rail and should have been notched for that.....you may need to source some new mounts....The shock should set a bit above the suspension. Here is a pic of my install, F1 style mounts, backer plates each side for diplacement....

I am thinking you will need wheelie bars installed with that setup.....😄

is this a ripped up chassis frame outer metal that I am seeing...this is very much not what one would hope to see on any chassis......hope I am misinterpreting the picture here the spacers could well be for the wheels now in use if not stock.....many later wheels are more of a positive offset and thus need spacers to prevent inner wheel trying to share space with other components. Even wheels say to 1989 often require a minimum of 1/4-3/8 spacer to keep the bulge of the modern radial wheel from scrubbing the inner tie rod end. are you running stock poverty caps with the retaining clips on the wheels

is the end of your pipe a total square cut.....you may wish a bit of a bologna cut here...especially with the deflector in place....

when you bust 50+ cars on hand, I will consider you having a real problem.....

and yet, we do not know the answer......😀 where is the closure

wow...been almost two years since I snagged this thing home and serviced it with a few new parts and tweak of the differential valve. Son came over to help me move it to the barn high bay this afternoon (truth is I helped him) which is real close to where I will pour a foundation and lean-to shelter so to put this horse into operation and no have to dig and bury air lines from the compressor that is some 120 feet away. Son is pretty big dude.....

slap on a later model 6 bladed asymmetrical fan...not to be confused with that aftermarket so called speed shop junk.

you may find you quickly encroaching upon the free space needed for air flow beneath the bell and into the filter itself.

the very design is to save the occupants and waste the car in a collision. With the heavy metal needed in the structure to assure the body/frame crumples at the built in crumple zones come at the price of added steel and weight. Why minor accidents along with the relatively low age of a car is why many cars are totaled.

having searched a tad for one of these filters myself long back, I found many of those air filters are sold with top and bottom plates for aftermarket and rarely seen sold by just the air filter itself. There are filters at 6" and 6 3/8 and even 6 1/2 and are from cheap element to washable units. Search on e-bay if you wish by dimension. as the shell will cover the element, odds are 6" will likely suit your bases. Measure to be sure....

while approaching 205 is not a happy place for these old cars...it is as stated not an issue if the car does not boil over.....being unpressurized we are approaching the magic 212. By todays standards our computer driven engines operate between 195 and 220 without issues...of course we know the coolants and pressure speaks volume here....while uncomfortable you can reduce this a few degrees running the heater as an heat exchanger if you get nervous.

starter stayed stock..only machined to match to mix and match of flywheel/crank used int he build.

mine above is a repeat, seems few folks search the forums regardless of the fact it is quicker and easier to do with immediate results verse waiting to see if anyone cares to repeat themselves and even when given various means to address the situation, months later it often is readdressed.

If I recall correctly, either on as normal or facing the castle nut to the bearing the hole was off enough in either case the cotter pin would not effectively slip in either way. But is seems with each install, each installer faces or finds an issue contrary if only in minute detail to that of anther person. The above post was just a manner I corrected mine and just a suggestion this may work for you. Others have found their own respective cure and that sits well with me also. Same crazy cat carved with a different knife.

I addressed the issue quickly and easily in a manner that it can be done at home and also to suit me by just elongating the cotter pin hole by inserting a drill bit into the original hole holding it in place with the nut and drill another hole in front to that one using the inserted bit as a hardened pin to ensure/guide the bit ahead of the original hole. When the hole is drilled, removing the nut acts as a chip breaker. You can drill part way in from the top and then part way in from the bottom as the spindle may have a small center bore here that could cause for bit to wander and break, center punch if drill from below also. The key slot also sets up you left and right edges and prevent the bit from wandering. Then with a jeweler's file I dressed the hole to a slot.

that thing ain't got no eye balls................! I am reminded of the humpback Dodge panel every time I look at my Morris van

conclusion, two less GM cars cluttering the highway.......😄 Of course I joke as many folks have love for these cars and put time and money into them. In reality I think the floor pan and seat frames in a PT Cruiser have more metal by weight than the shell of my 48 Plymouth....every cut up a PT C. I have cut both and it like cutting a slice of steak with a hoe handle compared to cutting the old Plymouth.

if I recall the flywheel tooth count and the starter tooth count did not change till introduction of 12 volt......anyway, this would be the area to investigate.

some even know what soap is for.........going back to the heat of the shop now and continue cleaning......I am not making much headway and dragging my feet and that is no lie.....just to hot right now.....and it is cooler in the shop than outdoors, so working with the doors closed yet.