Plymouthy Adams

clutch rod for the 37-38 same 39-41 same clutch fork 37-41 same return spring 35-41 same clutch pivot spring 37-41 same.... clutch release pivot fork 37-47 same clutch torque shaft pivot 37-47 same clutch torque shaft pivot bracket (frame mt. ) 39, then 40-41, then 42-47 clutch torque tube 37-41, then 42 -47 keep in mind my book was printed 47 so likely as these will continue form 47 to end of P15 as another note, I only looked in the Plymouth column not any of the other sister cars.

gotta love it, road lined for dual lane and three lanes of traffic.....

this may or may not help you...but...when it comes time to drill out the dog bone for the steering arm to bolt at the bottom you will need to be able to secure this well for drilling....a picture here of how I secured my dog bone by locking it beneath the spindle and held in place in similar manner as I did with this scissors jack...

if you are not renewing the king pin bushings there is no need to remove them as drilling and tapping is easily done in place on the car.

Well, I do have a white lab coat...while that was proper apparel within the confines of my job as an electronic tech for years, I do not recommend me in white around any machinery. There are two denim shop aprons hanging in the shop

I one day expect to have to change the spark plugs in my 1940's Maytag washing machine engine.....never saw that coming.....I will however say we each see things in a different light and not all approach the subject in the same manner.....sticking to what works for you is best and though not your approach, while different, not necessarily wrong either. Getting the results you want and need and keeping it safe to operate is job one, not so much the dancing in the streets you see with every freaking commercial on TV as they say; gag me with a spoon. Lemmings are commonly found in a zoo in the US, not so much on a forum...but, they can be found in small numbers there at times.

Not much going on in the shop except organization and clean up. I did luck up a rather large horde of anti-fatigue matting for free and decided to install it in my small machine shop...the AC made this a rather less sweaty task. So I did a rather deep cleaning of the shop, threw out some stuff left from other projects and put some on the street for the trash collectors. I was one panel shy of a full install and will get that done when I snag said panel. It is comfortable to walk on. I may one day sew me some nice heavy gauge cloth covers for the two lathes but for now.....this keeps them protected. It is a small shop but so far has been an asset in my projects. How I got along without it I have no clue.

😴

made of pasta but hardened by exposure to a nuclear reactor....😃 If you want to consider some source on the internet.......this is for you: Heat treated SAE 5160 steel has been the standard material for sway bars for about the last 60 years

check your trinary switch

when you consider the spring and its tension at throttle speeds and the wear it will see as the tension builds at x position at x speed you can see the reason the bushing will wear in an elongated pattern thus resulting in a slight ramp on the bush to fully reset...thus the added spring tension....If you rebushed the shaft or renew the shaft if it also displaying wear, then the light spring will suffice for a general long use with no problems...but this is not to say that you will immediately start this process again on operation....go ahead and make it drive by wire....(you may need to go to 12 volts for this...lol)

12V Automotive air-conditioner Electric A/C Compressor Kit Universal For Cars | eBay While you will not have parasitic loss with the compressor, you will be making up for that loss with the alternator....you not getting out alive if that is what you thinking.....lol alternator with the proper IL at idle lets just say that specs are not the forefront of marketing, it is computer says fit and you live with that these days it seems. We know the IR as that is going be withe the stated 100A unit....but ability to sustain this unit when idling at a stop light you going to want to be able to feed the system without total dependency on the battery. A high reserve battery will be a must also. ANY TAKERS.....? considering one now for an LBC.....

I went this way given I had to physically relocate the stock sway bar with the modifications to the front of the chassis with install of a big block mopar and other mods for cooling, AC install and what not needing cosideration....simple bolt in unit what with a couple homebrew brackets....

in the square back of the building, isn't that a Delorean...

I've built a model or two in my youth....and I admit to a few miniatures of a few cars I do own in full size. Am sure everyone here has a few build models under their belt or collected a scale model of a car they have either owned in the past or currently own now. That is a stack of boxes for sure.

Hey Andy, this forum has more it fair share of incomplete cars now......😁 come to think of it...might be right at home with no wheels, tires or engine.

brother with the same mother?

so can we say.....you are on a roll........!!!!

as for battery fires.....just say thanks when it come time to pay your upcharged motorist insurance.....when you are off the grid and sweating in the heat, again say thanks for the battery chargers you off setting if not by direct funds, by direct inconvenience. Sometime I think we are not advancing at all....just getting a bit too big for our britches.

I saw two of the Tesla rigs last weekend along I-75 but could not get any indication of driver or AI....windows were totally black looking from my angle of view. The Tesla rig I think is enough for me to repeal the 'ugliest truck in the world' from Powell to Tesla but for the life of me, I cannot call that Tesla thing a real truck.....

A model of the 51/52 would be moderately received I am thinking and only become a reality if someone in the business of scale model manufacturing stumbled upon the fact a close family member had one back in the day and then likely would have to be the convertible or the Cranbrook Belvedere then maybe commission a short run of the model of the now more popular and desirable real life car. I suspect this may not come to pass.

just bring back Chrysler, the model will make themselves available as they are synonymous with the brand...but to poor company has been raped twice and their technology exploited and distributed on too many brand x cars....world class can still have no class....

running 50 series tires may also lessen the chance of fender lip to tire rub when maneuvering at greater speeds also and at that may necessitate a bit of ride height adjustment....but for sure even with a less tall tire, the width is great for installing just the same....My Plymouth looked great with 8" widths also...but for sure that width is to the outside of the wheel....while not really an issue except to say splashing the dogleg in the front, the rears were a total no-go from the git-go. I did not want to reprogram the computer is why I stuck with the 225/75R16's. Personally I would liked to have stayed about 205 but did not want to carry this thing to a dealer as I do not have a tuner. I think I now have access to one as my bud stated he has one but not got the book on the model he has so cannot say for certain. I will do my tweak and likely add a panhard rod.

I run some good size meat on my 48 but suffice it to say am not stock in a lot of the drive train engine and suspensio....but with 225/75R16's I am at the point where you have to be cautious on hard cornering. For some reason while the axle is properly positioned with the frame, there is a slight variance in the frame to fender opening probably what Grep is also experiencing. I have a fix on paper but alas not done the actual mod to correct for this. Another item you will wish to add into your calculation for any wheel/tire upgrades..Measuring two other P15's here, all three were off a bit from the others....not an absolute as I have found.

one note here on the rear with wider wheels. The body will need be jacked fairly high to get the clearance needed to insert the wheel between the hub and the lip of the fender...often many folks don't like the height needed for a stock rim/tire let along going real wide here...do not overlook this with your pending measurements. See about borrowing a wheel/tire assembly of the size you intend to run for test fit.