Plymouthy Adams

My van has the shifter on the dash all of a sudden it is 1956 again.....while many things are new to the less aged person, many thing are just NEW AGAIN...and I assure you , for the most part....lots more effective in the process.

my 2015 Dodge is a drop in filter also.....but the system is far superior to the old cannister and I think you will can say that about your Volvo and or Toy....on the old cannister it is such a fuss sometimes to find the filter, clean the cannister and worry about possible leaking after the fact. Trust me the difference is night and day between then and now. With the modern drop in filter they are readily available at even Wally world would be my guess. Even Wally world stocks genuine mopar filters for the modern drop in cartridge. While this is apple and apples in comparison, the old would be a crab apple and the new a Honeycrisp

you gain availability.....that would be obvious to the most casual observer...what filter to use and where to buy is always the question, not the fact it is a by-pass system. I assure you if the old cannister was such top of the line it would be used yet today, the truth is, as with most things, a better method comes along and the old and cumbersome gets lost along the way.

the spin on adapter is inexpensive and effective, plumbed correctly does not appear as an afterthought eyesore and given the cost overall, pays for itself in two to three oil changes. When my box of filters I have hoarded run out...will be my go-to.

it was 35 years ago I last worked an 833 install....what my reading back on the subject concludes is the depth of the bore of the crank for the pilot bushing and added headspace for the total length of the input shaft. Most come into this problem with affixing a manual to a automatic crank. It this case, it is a dissimilar size of components from one era to the next. In the scheme of things most bore the depth of the crank or cut the additional ~.500 inch off the input shaft. This depends on what you have to do the work with in as much as tooling. Seems in factory setup, the shaft protrudes approx .500 beyond the pilot bushing into the crank counterbore this if cut, would not affect the overall use of the transmission stock or custom install.

Still think a quick call to Mr Brewer would be in your best interest as to length...be sure to let him know the adapter was based on the aluminum body and that you have the cast iron behemoth. My experience denoted that there may well be in put differences just I cannot say what they are...glean these facts from Mr. Brewer as I think he would be the best man in the business for the differences should there be any. You have very little to lose with the phone call and possibly everything to gain.

Sounds like Mr. Brewer corrected all thing on the transmission that was an obstacle and, on the spot, and fairly priced....the length of the input shaft will need be addressed and likely a shortcoming of the supplier of the adapter it would seem. Looking like a spacer would need be machined for the front of the transmission and adapter. Typically, I think they are more concerned with the later 833 with the OD gearing in their fabrication which is the larger cover and different input shaft (?). I have the OD 833 here on hand but have never measured any physical feature to verify just what would be the difference between it and the one you have. The answers would likely need to come from the AOK boys who sold you an adapter and may be best directed back at them instead of here. You almost there. to prevent chatter your spacer will need be true in thickness...likely a milled/ground surface. As an added, am I correct you did not notice the length difference till after your trip to see Mr Brewer, they have all the different input shafts on hand and he could well advise I would think with a phone call as to what input shaft you may need and or if there is a difference in overall length. I know the one I placed in a setup many years ago had the pilot bearing length trimmed down to allow it to snug up....could be an option here.

I know the feeling, while we rarely lose any time for driving the car, today was so nice I just said heck with it all and took the motor bike out for a good long cruise, blew through a tank of gas....now I think I will take mums out for supper and call it the weekend complete. This really does not mean much, the AC is still running for the house.

keep in mind the listing will allow for more drop here than many imagine.

hey, if they got rid of everything ugly, odds are we would also not have any membership here to speak of...

I did cut an article on this model, rare for sure......

I have two of these rare town sedans in captivity....they are as stated, kinda far and few between.

some things are just not worth the effort...a Pinto wagon even with the following of today's happy collector, this would still apply...this hold true for cars in a fire even if not physically burned to bits, the blast of cold water on a body to extinguish a flame....you have more luck collecting and selling beer cans for a living.

have you at least drained the oil and see how much water you holding inside....just what was the high water mark on the truck as it sat in the flood area...this will tell you volumes.

you have not even removed the gasket that probably is holding the piece in place....

is this modeling steering wheel one that is currently doing a runway, magazine or internet approach at marketing.....? if you have a current aftermarket wheel in mind, check next if it supports your make and models car....else list your wheel you like and ask if anyone has used it successfully.

you did good, years ago these were not available....I made my own using a set of the headlight coils for the same car. The solution across the market at the time were the door jamb contacts...nice idea and with a set in hand determined these would never work....the A and B posts are not very suitable for this ilk...likely after a failed attempt you would be welding up the area and go to plan B....the ones you show are in my opinion the only manner to do the task but since then discovered another manner that will work. Suggest you study even these closely as the A-post on these models are not at all friendly for wiring looms. Alternate means can be done using similar products....but will be a bit more involved....

have fun with running the wires....it is clear you have not studied the manner the door is shaped and the hinges are recessed and further that will apply to any contacts for the most part.....suggest that if you wish to use contacts...do not consider the typical hot rod offerings...HOWEVER there are some that can be used, a walk through a wrecking yard is suggested.

while the Plymouth chassis and body was typically used with the shortened wheel base cars.....the Dodge features/trim/etc places them in the Dodge realm in the Canadian market...the very bumper on this screams Dodge....in this GRAY area one must be careful when buying some grille trim etc while it looks Dodge, it is not full sized Dodge and you end up with a part that is not useable. It has always been my view that the Dodge styling cues surpassed all the other sister....Dodge would be Cinderella with the DeSoto being the evil stepmom and the ugly sisters Chrysler and Plymouth....☺️ (as in all things lumped, there are exceptions)

then likely it is an add...who knows how the PO wired it....it appears by the fuse attached to be of German origins. Typical VW/Porsche style, only suggestion, wire it for the application you need so to do the task you wish AFTER ensuring the validity of its operation.

have you considered the possibility it is the horn relay?

I think a look under your car now and then and or to look through the pages of your work manual would prevent a lot of running about with the fear the sky is falling....it is not rocket science or leading edge development of any sort, as you state, it is just an old Plymouth that has been around for decades and is not in any manner self-evolving its mechanicals.

maybe we all are overlooking the fact he may have a pedal car, would explain a lot....😁

that is basically the recommended shock through 54...(was at one time the go to per rockauto)...worked on mine till I did the relocation to the frame.

while they are as you said "just shocks" they also have to be correct size and attachment configuration......also you could be a bit more proactive in your search.... Monroe 5752 for sale | eBay