Plymouthy Adams

I changed the clutch motor in my commercial walking foot machine to that of a variable speed servo motor.....I never set, adjust, cuss that thing to start out slow for love nor money before the servo motor. I have tamed the beast and use that sewing machine most often now, repairing a seat cover just day before yesterday.

buy a horse blanket.....I really am amazed at how folks will never troubleshoot effectively here and spend two hundred or so bucks on parts not needed because they had a poor wiring connection and then literally choke on a nice seat cover for less than 50.00 I know it is your car, your money but if you ask for seat covers and want a blanket....then ask for a blanket. Most larger cities have a Goodwill or other thrift store and of course you can still search e-bay...ARMY BLANKET...... Green Wool Army Blanket 83* X 64" US military | eBay

folks please, look to e-bay, number of them there about anytime you look, get proactive, just by typing the three words, vintage seat covers....they are not overly priced, second, these make excellent patterns for the DIY types with a decent sewing machine.

sermon .....nah........truth....yes.....but I got little issue with E codes lamps other than saying you are on your own for risk of use and feel it needs be pointed as this is a forum, but, those that install LEDs in non-compliant housings.....I am not the police, don't want to be, further, others definitely would not want me to be.

As an added....with the inspection stations no longer as it was back in the day....I have on hand not one but two working Hoppy headlight aimers....the later for the last of the rectangular bulbs prior to composite and for that matter many of the early composite lamps. I also have two designated areas that are dead nuts level front to rear and left to right for their use and the calibration tool. But that is just who I am....these are Lucas Halogen, DOT bulbs, that aligned correctly are excellent for night driving. Headlight hygiene is a must.

not m I agree, as you have stated these are not DOT approved later in the thread...you are missing no points on the subject...you just outside the law failing to comply with the points.....while you may never fall subject to an inspection and such, just remember if you do get busted....it is your own undoing. I would never risk the ever- changing mood of a patrolling officer on deliberate violations. You never know when another may have whizzed in his oatmeal that morning.

you still missing the main point......legality....I am all for better lighting, but lighting goes beyond lumens as I said earlier.

yes the me folks will always work around the system.....BUT...per our inspection the paperwork denotes the failure of the item at time of inspection, if corrected on spot a check went into respected box, if customer leaves to correct himself and returns later inspection within X days to be reinspected at no additional save the 50 cents for the sticker if he now passes, the recheck box got ticked.....the record existed....also the state allowed for daytime operations and checked off only for that purpose...failure to have working turn signals was not a fail for daytime use but your drivers glass had to be able to roll down for hand signals...so if tires were checked, box ticked for fail, then reinspected and ticked good and then next day or later same day officer pulls the car, the inspection sheet which MUST remain with vehicle will prove the inspector followed protocols and should not have been gigged. The acid test of suspected shady inspectors with friends and family benefits was always to send a undercover in with known defects and check for compliance to rules. This checked for violation not only in car's safety but gouging for on spot repairs, if found doing either, then was when the license was suspended. Typically you made no real money with the state inspection fees and why many states let this fall to the wayside as not profitable and falls more to a hinderance.

Odds of failing may be low. Odd of being incorrect, 100% If I was still doing inspection, you would fail, you roll your own dice in that game. Either all laws apply or no laws apply but this will lead into other areas frowned on for discussion. It is not about superior lighting in lumens which is 99% of the human eye measuring value and performance....it is controlling the projection and diffusion of the light so to give you the best light at no distraction to other motorists and it is still the written law by DOT and SAE standards. I have never been an advocate for wishing to draw attention to myself of a negative factor. Lighting issues is the largest single 'lead in' violation that will get you pulled and full blown inspection to car, carried contents, and suspected fitness of a driver. Some corridors for heavy drug traffic will pinch you when their saturation forces are in periodic clamp downs. While you are upstanding citizen, do you wish the hassle and detainment when traveling....personally, not worth to me. As every police officer states, they can fall in behind you and in just a few minutes or miles of driving, find a reason to pull you over. Legal lighting is truly, less expensive.

While I do not use GPS as a 100% factor in gauging speed as it is resolved by average over time....and long curved segment cannot measure as GPS is linear. I do however rather enjoy the GPS in the 69 Morris I built and used it to aid in my ratio adapter being built and they now reflect the same speeds (average in straight line on a clear day) I mounted my GPS antenna in a manner it is near the top of the windscreen and the wire exiting the metal inside frame (in our cars a bezel, in this car, just a header) This is an inprogess build shop of adapting a modern larger mirror with courtesy/maplights built in and the bracket attaching the GPS antenna. this sits just behind the glass. The next shot shows it from the drivers seat (RHD) after installing the headliner and visors. I have never had to wait any extended period for the GPS to locate the minimum three satellites needed. I feel the mirror and hiding the wire is a well worth the effort for clean look.

European road signs are required to be lighted as I read it, thus the design of the bulbs is more concentrated center beam instead of the DOT need of the lights to project right and up to light road signs. Each country in the EU requires different lens and diffusing factors. Many folks run the E-code and they are nice lenses but any inspection station in the US that places a safety sticker on the windshield is not doing their job and is operating outside their existing regulations. As much as I hated to gig a well done car back in the day of official licensed state inspectors. Fail them was a part of the job, they change to DOT, I recheck slap on the sticker....now did they change back....oh yeah likely they did, but I was never complicit.

I do not remember Don doing that to his car. I am assuming you are referring to the bullseye lens and housings upgrades. Don took up the challenge to assist with the reproduction LED tail lights and bezel along with the trunk mounted stop light and bezel. A few folks on here have gone down the lens change path. Many however remove the lens and retrofit them on a current production H4 housing on the market today. While the parabolic reflector is more forgiving than a composite for element placement and alignment cutting and glueing is not the manner to proceed. They are DOT approved not only by Wattage, but by design of the element and per the housing they are fitted. such as you cannot just buy a replacement LED bulb and drop into a housing as the design characteristic will not be correct and why they are fines in place you can be hit with if you alter the lighting especially in the modern composite housings. Some of the worst light you encounter at night is from such amateur approaches to better lighting. These bulbs here as shown are E coded, and the 6 should be for Belguim and only authorized for that country in Europe. There seems to be no DOT listed on the headlight from the Toyota but if there is, I stand corrected but the photographs do not show this data. The flatter lens is dead giveaway to E coded.

placed this on another forum and we are a clean sweep for stumped panel. I agree on the Sun color but every cabinet I have ever seen that was Sun had logos painted on the doors...this one has never been painted and void of a signature cut. There are no tags inside or behind the cabinet either. Either way, tomorrow I will solvent wash it, then follow with soap and water and DA the puppy for priming and color change to match my shop decor.....yeah, picked up on the decor reference did ya? Today I finished sorting all the bins for the large cabinet I also bought, it is an eyesore as found but has potential, very heavy unit, and I have repaired the lower metal form dings and such...drilled out the rivets and bolted in place.....I have cleaned and DA sanded 50 or the 71 drawers....one drawer missing...can't win them all I suppose. Tomorrow will wash the remaining bins, DA them, and start the main cabinet for prep. Priming should go rather quick followed later with topcoat.

I bought a storage rack with 72 bins that are 6 x6x18 inches.....the cabinet was full of misc hardware and a few small tools. In the mix I came across this Snap-on item.....while I have numerous offset screwdrivers, I bet this one is now the oldest I have on hand. Set of the smallest spline drive wrenches still new in the bag....has to be the smallest ones I have seen yet and in the electronics sector of the world, I thought I used small one then.

No club is like it was years ago.....most frown on having a swap meet in conjunction with any gathering or event now and the whole success is measure not by the cars on the field but by the end of event banquet.....now a British event/show cannot be done without including a "tea setting" display and judging....while nice and for the ladies....it is not at the same level as the once offered swap meet event and why one without the other. I bailed from all this decades ago. Really do not miss it at all. I find as much if not more enjoyable event the local cruise, come and go as you wish, more than one brand of cars are there....while I dislike many brands.....there are many that I do enjoy seeing at times...it is a surprise most events. Saturday I attend the local cruise, first one with nice weather in 4 months. I drove the 48 up and it garners it fair share of attentions and many question on the build. Probably the only old car there with active air bag....ABS brakes etc etc.

avoid the disappointment, double speak and click by avoiding the clubs....enough folks do that they go the way of the dodo....they are basically dying off now due to age of ownership. Like Happy Gilmore said, If I saw myself dressed like that, I would kick my own butt. (insert correct word for dramatic effect)

we had a similar thread about mid August that the ever-dry kits were mentioned along with sealing a hood split. While they did protect the electrical for getting wet, they did not prevent water in the head cup for the plugs. Being thin, not normally kept clean and painted against corrosion, these ever dry kits turned into broken plug nightmares later after sitting outside idle for years on end.

The woodie (for Plymouth) was built on the P18 chassis whereas the Suburban was built on the smaller P17 chassis when introduced. The subsequent years were P19 and P22 chassis for the Suburban till the single size chassis beginning in 1953

yes

more food for thought, removed the wooden top, reveals stamped holes as for sitting the rubber feet of test equipment into, so back to the Sun Testing aspect of the deal. Looks like the outer holes were for a shelf/hood/rack. The cabinet is 30 1/4 inches tall and totally flat with four extra holes drilled by the PO for use outside main build purpose. As I own a Black and Decker valve grinding machine, I do not think this is quite up to par and there are no provisions for catching the cutting fluid nor pumping as there are no holes to route any plumbing that I can identify at least. (but on the same hand, would not rule it out either) As for the Craftsman lathe, standing at the table...would kill your back to work at that level so am ruling that out and again, no base for catching chips/cutting oil. The doors are double wall and super smooth action. Quality built, well, reason I snagged it for use. More pics for those that are interested.......thanks for playing along...

right post, wrong thread.....lol

I do have a 6" Atlas (Craftsman) lathe, and you right, similar color......but with the shelves and compartment for documents, just not thinking lathe as much as parts cabinet and document holder for parts application books. What a hoot if I found the correct cabinet for the lathe....lol. snag the lathe 35 years ago, store in attic for 30 and now the cabinet comes along....

I'll try to snag a pic of the shelves later, there is a compartment in the left door for documents. The back has a cut hole but looks like a PO butcher that I will address on clean up. Do not think it was originally eclectically equipped with outlets. I also just measured the granite top I have on hand and it is as if custom cut for this table so will get a granite work surface...this table will replace the lighter table I have in the machine now and the added shelves behind the door a ++ I often will sit there at that table in the comfort of AC and work small items, this is my go to space for carburetor rebuilds. But being a non conductive top...that is ++ also. For some reason my mind keeps going back to the Texaco where I worked as teenager. Still thinking AC Delco tune up parts cabinet.

Picked up this little roll around cabinet...it has had a wooden top installed....the color and handrail at from call to me from the past but cannot place this. Color is in line with a few things AC Delco or maybe the older line of Sun equipment....what say the audience at large....thanks. The small drill press I also snagged and have it cleaned and operational, new off/on switch and plate fabricated and ready for final lube, it is not bolted onto the table. Plans are to sit a granite top to the unit for use in the machine shop.

I am one to do my own research and dare to be different upgrades. I happened to have access to this particular tank, few quick measurements revealed that a quick mod to the inlet put in as 'shoe in' for the Suburban, so for 80.00 I bought a brand new tank and did the deed. IT IS NOT PLUG AND PLAY but anyone accustomed to fitting would never have an issue making the mods. As Kramer would say, Move along Betty nothing to see here. if you do not have the time tools and welding skill set to do the deed moparpro is your next best bet. This task I did long before moparpro started trying to supply some stuff to the hobby and keep in mind that I also upgraded the instrumentation and while with the Suburban is easily falls in the generic senders that also is not a hard task to bring up to date newer or existing fuel gauge. As the suburban is powered by fuel injection, the tank supports return fuel, high pressure pump and of course the low fuel indicator light added for 'just because I wanted it.' The original tank was nothing but scaled rust on the few surfaces still visible to eye, totally toasted it was.