Plymouthy Adams

that car is pocessed....trunk lid key number------------------666 Is the C for Christine the 1st.

you need to get up to speed with the ignition system and what creates the spark and trouble shoot from there....if you get a strong spark with the screwdriver arcing the points, your coil is working.....sounds like you points are not opening at all (this is when the spark is created on collapse of the field inside the coil) OR you have shorted the two contacts at the wiring connector at the points. By your note you saying you are holding the high tension at the distributor to ground....it must not be ground but a gap so you can see the secondary voltage spark as it jumps the gap. Again, check for short in distributor.

I have on hand a vintage wheel balancer. I picked this unit up years ago and never have messed with it. Heavy unit and would like to check it out but some conflicting data at present, wired at plug for 110 but data tag says 230. The data tag is the cover to the electrical contact field for wiring and under the lid is small schematic. Sadly the schematic is messed up in the middle section to the point I cannot read it. Inputs are shown but does not indicate that 230 by lack of noting line 1 and line 2 inputs. There is a note below that I cannot read but think it states (double motor) The spin motor is a Lamb (Ametek) 1s14790 where the first digit could also be an I possibily. It is an AC brush style cast housing and well made. Nothing on the internet come close to this motor by number or image search. Stuck on this one a bit. Question for the masses, does anyone have one of these in captivity that could remove the cover and scan/photograph their schematic...or...even better, the odds of having a book on hand with a schematic inside. Operation manual I did find searching but nothing on wiring at this time. Reaching out on this one and hoping for the best....thanks for your time.

coming out of the starter gate is Doug as they near the first turn and as he closes to the inside...

Lot of dealerships made money selling these trim options allowing also for their shop personnel to make a living also. There was 3 trim packges available for 54 and my Savoy got two of the three from the factory and it is definitely full of bling bling. I have all the parts that made up the third option plus the optional Cello wire wheel caps. Only thing I do not have is the blonde in the advertisement photo....that accessory is always high maintenance and costly to replace as it ages.

JC Whitney will exchange that for you......lol That is the IHC Scout is it not. Not seen one that old in quite some time around these parts. IF it is around, they want restored prices for junk cars....reason they still sitting behind barns and in the woods. They will rot in place before sold and when sold, the heirs are doing the crushing run to turn the property for cash. They don't want this stuff and smart enough to recognize it is a lost cause.

Plymouth learned the market trick of length in 54 with the peaked headlight bezels and adding the manner of rear overriders for that 'bigger car' look. The Dodge often had the advantage of better designer cues on trim for sure which garnered that extra cost at he dealership I suppose. The poor ole DeSoto...not much you can do with a mud fence left outside in the downpour.

like a dog with a bone....but hey, you staying busy and I will give you full credit for that....anyone can eat an elephant one bite at a time...so many refuse to take that first bite and well, they get little to nothing done either. Hope you do not have near the work to do on the body to fit to this new pan.

going with 57 Dodge Suburban....

that is true, but in this case, he is not even to the point of adding fluid to the system...his base circle of the shoes is even larger than his now larger cut base circle of the drums on resurfacing. The manner of repop cylinders, the cups often will NOT match the cups of original stock in depth...thus it holds the base circle of the shoes to even greater distance. You have to work the magic of mix and match of cups and pin to correct this error.

simple, if the power does not pass through the meter, the meter cannot read it and report the drain....be sure to fuse your battery to source input on the relay appropriately for the current that will be used.

as long as you remember to turn them off when parked, they do not need be switched. But if you power the relays by the switch when lighting direct from the battery..they will default off with ign. off.

technically you are correct, and there is (I read of this and never made a copy) a 50 state reciprocity agreement that the registration rules in one state are to be honored in all other states as the state of registration takes precedence. HOWEVER, you have many rogue states with Virginia being the worse for stopping transient drivers and subjecting them to their rules and regulations. Once settled this is legal in your registered state, they are to drop the stop so to speak. It is a sticky wicket and one you may or may not win in litigation these days. I have legal documentation I carry that states it is legal in my state for blue dots and YOM tags....I carry a copy of this law with my car's documents. I have never been bothered by any LEO at this time....and make provisions for such stop to eliminate an onsite whizzing contest. Does not take much to trigger some LEO's buttons to over react.

I recommend that the trunk lamp continue solely as a brake light for the added safety in today's age of distracted drivers. Mine is not only operative, but with a higher lumen LED lamp to help overcome the glass lens as it does subdue the glow a bit. I also went LED so to use the added effect of the warning sequencer added to further catch the eye of the following motorist. Some question the legality of these, while on a cycle these are recommended, it is also extended by many to read useable for the older antique vehicles for added protection. Kinda in line with the blue dots for safety. Ask you own locals. Mine is set up to plug and play so they will snap in or out in just a couple seconds polarity never a question fitting/refitting if you find you offending a local ordnance when traveling. Have this feature on two of my vehicles now and get compliments on the added safety.

did you change the cylinders.....the profiles of the pistons (cup depth) in the cylinders s are often not the same as stock either so this is where majority of the mismatch occurs...pistons and pins...they turn out to be too long

as an added...for those folks that have been using e85 and if it is older stock fuel....you can run into problems with sticking valves easily. Suggest you use an additive for upper cylinder lube to prevent this if you do not run the fuel through in short order. Small engines suffer from this even more so. The ethanol is not your fuel for intermittent use. While the modern car with zero emissions systems of the modern car seems to do better as there is less air/moisture interaction in the system and thus less issues with longer sitting times between operations. Sealed containers with no headspace seem to store the fuel a bit longer with less adverse effect as well.

I did not search and post a link as these are way common, glad you went proactive and located one.....ya did good for yourself....we need more proactive folks for sure.....👍

just plumb the light switch inline and let the big dog eat....

I was referring to the physical part also, it is a bit to stop and pop the hood and disconnect the battery, and lower the hood and later up it to connect the battery back in service...but as stated, if that is your routine I support you 100% I met a guy who not only pops the hood to disconnect the battery, the also takes the air cleaner induction hose off, plugs the air cleaner, plugs the hoses on each end and then places a can over the exhaust tip....this is done even if knowing he will drive it the next day. Nothing wrong with that either.

I also read Ulu's comments, lots of work going into the unit. The basic design of the car he is working is to sit on the VW pan. The pan is attached longitudinal sections that is the strength combined with the cross supports and of course the suspension mounts. It is my thought if Ulu were to build a frame separate, he would have to also build a pan still yet for the floor of the molded body....maybe I am wrong here but as I see his drive to build a combo unit such as he is. Then he would be back to square one for steering and rear suspension.

disconnecting the battery lead is going to hurt anything....the extra effort to do this if gives the owner peace of mind...go for it......I do mine also but it can be up to a dang year between drives and often more than 6 months between starts....the poor ole battery is just 15 years old.

once you polarize the unit there should not be further need unless you change major components or swap polarity.

usually you will see a noise filter attached to this screw.

these were very much serviceable in the old days....finding the parts is you concern, the task itself is not that involved.

screw, you may have to move the door seal a tad to see the access hole...for sure this allen head set screw is likely now frozen in place and may be difficult to loosen if not impossible at this time given you did not take measures to prevent this when last serviced.