Plymouthy Adams

embrace the electronics and or the total battery job....it is max power for sure compared to anything carburated....too many folks still clinging to old school when there no real rhyme or reason to forgo the advantage of the modern drivetrain except to say...I refuse to go modern. I admit the cost of some stand alone harnesses put some of this out of range and many do not like the fact that you need a good interrogator to troubleshoot and that prevents them from embracing the new. And face it, if the makers get their way, you will not be able to even interrogate your own cars in the future.....many forward of 2018 tie your hands now. But we have a number of good years out there that you can choose from yet and still be very capable with economy and HP at the same time. I have 3 more cubic inches over stock engine in my 48 and same number of cylinders and well over double the HP with two extra gears and a way way better final ratio and a ton of features that make drivability a pleasure. Bigger and better brakes, ABS technology, fully active air bag restraint and list goes on including utilizing the entire donor vehicle heating and air conditioning and power rack and pinion steering, something all would come to appreciate and enjoy. Now many state they like the way the old cars ride and the old engines respond...I can understand that, however, many take that stance due to not understanding the modern technology or not motivated to get that deep into a build over buy and bolt repairs. A full retrofit is not that difficult to do but again, you only limited to your lack of imagination and motivation. Again, this is not for everyone, you need not only the tools, time, and space, but skill sets also along with the drive to say failure is not acceptable. Cost to do stock rebuild over the modern swap is the swap is less money but for sure more invasive. For many I know cutting a car is unspeakable but then many buy cars that have no engines and transmissions just to make it call so easy as nothing to weight against the new verse old. Anyway, room for all, have fun either way. I am in the planning now for another retro build but this time a couple extra cylinders and barely over into the next decade of old mopar.

hey...that chicken in the picture.......regular recipe or extra crispy????????????

most of this stuff is bought in lengths and you cut to fit, likelihood of finding them ready to pop in...might be a bit to ask for...but will not say it would be impossible....just not likely

Restoration Specialties out of PA....they pretty knowledgeable and will guide you if you are not up to speed on sizes...all this stuff is made by one company only and sold by many...however, not that many are up to speed on specs and apps.

sounds like some spoiled rotten chickens

got to say this first off...never seen a two story chicken coop before....now I do know chicken coops with floors, windows even....next thing you know, a widows walk, coop with a cupola....I'll quit now.

this is why you order parts by your distributor model number........

I fully understand the special bodies.....however, ugly is ugly and like I stated, just my own personal opinion. That is why there are so many makes and models out there, no one model is right for everyone.....

that teal painted thing with the overstuff vinyl roof has totally been hit by the ugly stick....does not match the period of the car in my opinion and yes it is JUST MY OPINION

you getting there...building projects always gets you hyped up....

it is NPT

compare the throw of the lever to the pump body, not lever to lever...the above picture are not the same profile and thus not representative of the overall pump

you only live once so live it to your fullest.....a project car especially a Mopar and new shop will likely add years to your life....congrats on the purchase and the shop build.....while a tad more out of the coffers....if you can swing a 13 foot wall and a lift....you will always thank yourself for it....if not, then is understood. This is my birthday month, will run in a bit to look at a project I scheduled an appointment to see...it will have to be very nice to buy it but if you do not go look, you never know what may or may not be.....it is a dare to be different car....the other dare to be different turn out to be rotten beyond economical repair, it could be saved, just someone else will have to do it....my plate is overrunning now.....I need a project like I need a hole in my head....but, we having fun for the most part and that is what it is all about.

hey that is easy, I have located them for you, they are on your bench.......it's the details that eat your time and your brain...but stuff like this is easier on your wallet when fabricating your own stuff....if you don't believe me, get out there and so some of the stuff Ulu (& others) are doing.

A salute....to all who have served.... retired US Army and US AF Reserves, combined 32+ years

for sure...hard to prevent heat creep......

in the case of the truck, battery beneath the floor, as is the original topic here, this is not needed.....out of sight out of mind...call me cheap, YOU'RE CHEAP!...but it is hard to justify this cost for a cover that is so easily seen as faux battery....you may fool yourself but that is where it will stop...but at casual glance it passes inspection.

for sure there are different schools for the two set up...depend on how you drive them as to what you will get out of them....they tamed the beast at speeds to 85, figure that is all I best push it given conditions.....I would be floating like a boat with stock....not so now...nice controlled ride.

I have more than once made mention that the purist do look down their noses at the resto or rod builder while all the time not realizing if not for them, they would not have the pieces to maintain their cars in the original configuration. Can't save them all and many feels cutting up and parting out a car is blasphemy. Well, they are welcome to buy the heap and do the work but then that is not going to happen either. Talk is often fast and cheap. I went to look at a car last weekend.....picture and description made it a promising car. That is where it screeched to a halt. By looking at the lower medal, unibody frame...I think the roof was all that was keeping it from folding...but man it sure looked good on the outside. Oh, it could be saved for sure, just not economically. Perfect glass turned out to be windshield with perfect round holes...would be a nightmare finding a glass I would think. But, I did go look thus I am content on the pass.

hook up a couple headlights and see how much it deflects.......

Hotrod tractor is MIA for over a year....and I never had a phone number for him or really his real name so no means to check on him. We swapped PMs quite frequently and then one day....no more replies and it was to me strange as we were in the middle of a conversation. Anyone have any knowledge as to his current status?

if you lowered you front...what did you expect out of your shocks...

I have each but they are filed away somewhere for now and to be honest with you....not sure I could state is a lot of difference and that one will work as well as the other. IF I run upon these next time I am long term storing an item or having a need to collect from my long term, I will compare these closer and report findings.

I am not so sure I can help you except to say it can be done...while my hood was open and foreseeing such an event you describe....I made a special shaped metal rod to g between the grill slats, rotate a few degrees and catch against the lever and with a bit of a push you can get it to pop up....you can make similar just by looking between the slats and getting an image of the under side of the latch

If it is on your invoice, what shock did they install for you....? Am sure some on here will find this relevant.