Plymouthy Adams

I had a bicycle, rusted little 20 inch model....it was parked leaning against a tree in the lower orchard and I referred to it as the 'last ride' I mowed and trimmed around that bike for years....until, a junk collector stole it out of the yard for the 3-5 cents he would get at the scrap yard. He had no apprciation of 'art' and I hope the bastard got tetanus.

that is the industry standard flare reducer 1/4 -3/16 should be able to snag these from any local OTC parts house.

looks like we are stymied.....paypal has all my info....that is more than I like to share as it is.

form will not allow me to continue....cannot get to a Paypal checkout without a billing name and address.....not at all like it used to be...check donate, click paypal and done.

GTK, could I ask you to view my PM to you and reply as this donation will be credited to a guy who benefited me here with an item and would not accept pay or postage.

went to make a donation to the forum, selected my amount but it takes me a billing address request that has required fields and asks for a hat size....I just want to make a simple paypal donation.

quick view of their product show a great deal of additional work compared to others kits available. Cost are a bit higher for base kit without regard to additional work you will be doing also then the flagged banner of parts delays possible. Don't get me wrong...the other kits have issues and certain amount of customer intervention also. I will only add that you should read close and compare the kits as to what you are capable of modifying yourself as any farming out of tasks will set you back in installation time and additional cost.

for sure, the ball cap brim is constantly blocking my field of view to the point they are annoying, I did 20 years of military and hats, only in the last couple years did I have to wear a ball cap as my uniform of the day was civilian attire, then dress blues and garrison cap to and from the parking lot only...and only wore the utility ball cap while in QA last short term before retirement as on the flight line a lot. I was not hot on the beanie but with no brim....they comfortable and afford me some head protection.

I read this and renewed my search for a liner to go inside my padded brim denim beanie as I detest a brimmed ball cap. I happened upon a trim to fit model on the e-bay and ordered one in. It arrived this morning and in a matter of minutes, I had trimmed to fit and inserted into my beanie hat and surprised at how well it locks into place and holds the shape of the beanie. Very comfortable and I have high hopes for less severe bruises and dents in my head now. This is an Ergodyne brand if anyone is interested.

and that tiny bit of wanting hopefully led you to placing these aside for sending out to be sleeved and then go back with problem free liners and originals stock materials and appearances, likely some additional peace of mind.

depends on the manner the horn itself is made...

with these parts getting a bit harder to find replacements, I say protect the entire horn circuit with the relay removing the heavy current from the grounding ring/contacts and let the cheap replaceable relay take the brunt as it is designed just for this.

as stated...use contact cemet as stated....coat the metal, coat the fabric, let both dry tact free...when they touch...instant bond...be sure you are aligned.... Thanks Eneto 55......I did not have such a clean memory on this but for some reason the cleats stuck in my mind....too many days have passed since I put in my headliner.

as an added note....ensure first the return of the piston to most rear position in the master before probing the relief port.....

Jerry.......the pictures I lost in the crash was the entire process and step by step when I installed my headliner. Ok just found one of my shoulder strap install and the garnish removed and original headliner mainly removed....the serrated cleats stop at the front door.....the fabric is glued about the quarter glass. This is a picture of mine finished. I lost three computers, two almost back to back to freak out of nowhere lightening strikes.....still upset over it all.

the headliner should attached to strips with serrated edges that will hook the fabric in place....the tacking strips are generally along the b post for the windlace...the front windlace tucking in and cleated with serrated edge here also...as the bottom of the rear quarters is covered with the garnish that overlays the lower quarter trim panels the headliner goes no lower here. The sail panel and window at the rear I have very vague memory here so eveidently was not an issue....the addressing of the fabric below the rear glass at the package tray is where I found the system most lacking and thus made a similar serrated strip for this area for quick and easy install.

many folks support using WD40 as an alternative due to the flammable properties along with benefits of lubrication unlike the ether that does a wash of your protective oil film. Similar to using the propane method above with some lube properties. It is not endorsed by the maker that I am aware of and there are some who swear by it and those that swear at it...read a few summaries and make your own call, I say fix what is wrong....starting fluid is typically for extreme low temperature use as an aid to a normally good running engine.

searching the forum can net a world of information on the frame isolation mounts, I also knew in the past I had posted data on the subject including pictures....and also not if you do not own a manual...the body mounts are not to be over tightened....closed cars...15 ft. lb. convert...20 ft. lb.

I snagged one of these fold up 4 way lug wrenches...it is for the smaller lug nuts as is on the Morris LCV. Compact footprint, hopefully it will stay together for me and on that build I would love to have the original Shelley jack and while not off the wall for buying, off the wall for shipping from the UK, so improvised here with a scissors also and dedicated mounting for the jack and crank. The original lug wrench is also the engine cranking lever.

I may have to look into one of them.. if the liner can be removed as I cannot stand a ball cap....the brim is as stupid as stupid can get in my opinion....but I do have a beanie I wear of heavy denim that while protects me to some degree, I still get bumped, just less severe for the post part. In working in the trunk of the bz cpe, the hinge brackets are a hazard for sure...two bangs on my head, hurt but protected the scalp.

good man, good thread and was the best of friends.....

I'd say there was a lot of backing up in the design and implementation of the mod....but he followed through no matter what others think of the creation. that would now be a D24 1/2 with the half being 50 Stude Starlite

that jack is '04 Dodge Dakota, the crank is sectional and thus you snap it together for the length you need for whatever corner you are working. The tire iron and the crank are in a stitched vinyl pouch to prevent rattling and looks good when stored. Of course you or anyone else is free to use what is at hand or available in your local wrecking yard....just listing what I used as it may be of help to you. IF you wish a tray for the tools to lay into, again, look to mother Mopar circa '96 full size with the bulkhead storage behind the seat....

some folks place range data.....at a tree or shrub someone can hide behind...posting of a placard stating 63 yard, unobstructed flight path. Of course most of that is in jest but the Joe/Jane criminal rights are protected more than the rights of Joe/Jane property owner/tax payer. My lights were triggered about 3:20 and I was immediately outside to investigate...nothing...so figured an animals cross the area. At light, as I was working very early in the shop, looked out for a weather check and got my rifle...an armadillo was doing the dillo thing of digging holes...and as Jerry Clower would say, and the lord called him home.

I wondered the very same as it is evident that he is not going to embrace the modern technology of the 'given' outdated 91 engine controls and falling back to even more ancient technology. But that is his ball to call.