Plymouthy Adams

I wish I could comment further on the steering and the manner it was installed, I bought this project and for sure it has been the quintessential evidence of why never to buy someone else's work in progress and I have not nor never will consider a started or finished car by others. While I have reworked every aspect of the build, firewall, steering column, cooling system, exhaust, brakes, driveshaft phasing engine and rear axle, body welded/finish instead of rust holes packed with bondo....this segment of the car as purchased seems to be the only professional done segment and it was my understanding the only thing the builder farmed out and appears to be the Caviler tie rods. This car was a total misrepresentation by the seller even when direct questions were asked with the only concern to rework questionable area NOT HAVING to discover the shoddy workmanship, sad day. The car is sitting covered, all work done save topcoat paint, for the eventual day when my total disgust will allow me to find the love to finish the car. I was ready to crush it with the discovery of the last big surprise. But dang, you got to love the body style of the 41 dodge bz cpe.

sigh of relief, that makes all the difference....?

Now get out there and do something.......even if it's wrong!!!!!! Not decided if this will be a Mopar kind of year or maybe a Porsche year.....got to decide my next build....

while a solid and valid move on your part to protect your 6.....in the event of refund I am sure they will scream, given you get a response, no road back to the original account to send the refund....danged if you do and danged if you don't scenario. I still hope this works out for you.

All Mopar.....original frame upgraded with a Mopar clip. Devout member of the ABC (anything but chevy)

depends on the rate you take sharp curves or have to steer the car to maneuver into tight places....given the huge original steering wheels, worm drive and tire patch without the aid of PS the benefit of a R&P already screams major improvements...ad power steering and likely your kindergartener will be taking your car to school. The rack and pinion in my 48 Plymouth business coupe is rated for over 6000 lbs.

while the rack itself is NOT GM but that of TRW and also USED on the 4200 lb series of Chrysler LHS. The inner bushings and such is the same both applications. You got to keep in mind that these aftermarket companies has to default to the rating of the supplied donor part for liability purposes. Take it from there.....to say there are no rack and pinion units for a vehicle over 3500 lbs is ludicrous. The Dodge Sprinter is the first to pop into my mind....not to mention the many trucks up to 3500 (Curb weight: 6,956 lbs. Maximum towing capacity: 34,110 lbs. Maximum payload: 4,440 lbs. Gross weight: 11,400 lbs) the light weight 6000lb car frame will fail first.

Norn left us this date 2009, known for his short trips up and down the driveway in the 48 Plymouth....he brought a lot of fun and humor to the forum. R.I.P. Norman

in other arenas of the car hobby there have been multiple failures of rotor buttons...cheaply made with little and often defective molded parts that would allow the spark to short to the distributor shaft thus the dead ignition spark

Andy, put all your loose change in your right front pocket and double knot you left shoelace and try again .......lol I know how frustrating this is....while not on this site, I have experience similar.

well, good luck, the internet search on the company call it a full out scam....

Paul Harvey was truly an icon.....we could use a few more like him today.

Am constantly playing what I call 'musical cars' some of my work spaces are dedicated to x specific work and thus, either you shuffle the cars or shuffle away...

Likely will not hit the shop or barn today, traditional Christmas with gifts and dinner is always on the eve at our house, grandparents breakfast at my son's house on Christmas morning so to see the grands with the Santa gifts.....NOW from there, I bet I will sneak out to play a bit...reworking a bay in the barn to maximize the usage.

and now we all know, the rest...of the story.................?

I have second steering wheel that I will let the wife hold and act like she is driving when on the interstate and a car is beside her...she can then pretend it fell off and she don't know what to do next...

Thanks.....With the upgrade I did to the fuel system and going from some 6.8 gallon pancake fuel tank to a 15 gallon tank using the same factory space, the ability to suspend the spare in this location is long gone. For this year LCV the spare is factory in this location regardless of LHD or RHD as I read it. Only change here was altering the width of the brackets the spare sits in as I have gone also to the later model wider rims that was the 8cwt vans which allows me to run a wider tire. As I kept it RHD it would be right at home yet on the roads in New Zealand from where it was imported. Now the local inspectors would be busy with the changes I made.....and may be best it stays here in the US.

LOL sweet part is that it is weight captured and not bolted in any way. And with the step bumper that I created for this ride, that is a big help also. Beside, that is why I married a younger woman.....!!!!!

internet is your friend....lol with three words (oil catch can) instead of the sentence above you would have had you answer.....not judging or anything of the sort but for real, best info can be found in a well written white paper on the subject and the answers are just a second or two in time from you knowing.

depends on the quality of the can as built...like many things there are benefits and like most thing that are made, the cheap knock off price in inviting....son justput one on his turbo equipped road machine..

I have both the 41 and 47 Dodge Town Sedan with the 47 being even more limited made Town Sedan Special. You don't see these everyday for sure.

Thanks Los, these straps are not heavy duty for sure but will do the job they are specific for. Plans at most for these is to tie down a small motorcycle/minibike at best. Odds are even that will not happen at least for the immediate future. I have not even started the minibike build that will be matching color to the van's two-tone paint. With the van pretty much squared away I will now have to do a bit of arranging a couple of barn bays and clean the shop. The speedometer corrector came in today and now with all the mixed and matched gear train changes along with the really odd revs per mile Brit speedometer, it is dead on with the built in GPS. I did this afternoon sew a matching brown document envelope cover for the US postal envelope behind the tie downs, running a YOM tag the current tag has to be inside the vehicle somewhere and this envelope works best for me. Am going to say this segment is now what I want it to look like. So last weekend before Christmas, going to make the best of it. Going to get out to the shop and do something even if it's wrong...!!!

well, you can choose what to set it at.....this is the specs by per the factory book and just what you asked for...

4 3/4 -6

if and when possible I use seals from Clester's....they have the correct durometer unlike so make others made that cause the door to not shut p