Plymouthy Adams

could be a PITA to anyone not versed in automotive electrical.....but if fact it is not....you did not say if going 12 volt with the projected change either. I would suggest that you read a few white papers on the subject and get up to speed. Then if there is anything that is not general in the form of a question for Mopar, can/t think of one at the moment, then come to the forum with a specific. Now I made my comment it is not at all difficult working the electrical, either polarity, either voltage but to guess at your knowledge and skill level going in, had to make that call for you

wait till you pulling a car out of the woods, speeding along and see a loose rope that is flapping around behind the car you are towing, pull over....its a huge snake....sorry but he can untie himself

Friend of mine sent a message that he is in attendance at the start of the event in Owensboro.....expect a pic or two. I would in no manner call this a race but for sure, timed rally event is just not as exciting a name. These events in case no one has ever participated in one, not as easy as one would think. I think a regatta would be fun also if able to compete as a U-boat captain.

you got mice...only natural you get snakes......get rid of the mice, the snakes will find other places to hunt.....right now....sounds like they found a baited field to prey over.................THEORY TWO...the car is possessed as was Christine but to a lesser degree and harvesting its own SNAKE OIL

rule of thumb on oil pressure, 10lbs per 1000 rpm.....

also you should pay close attention to the isolation mounts, front of engine, at the transmission cross member and do not overlook the fact the rear shackle bushing could be shot keeping your driveline out of phase or grounding......and couple this with higher than normal idle speed....you can creep....good inspection is needed, tune per specs/verified a must.

Be kind to one of your children even if it is a dratted GM product.....😛

the slot at the top is supposed to be sufficient for you to slight pry the lower portion of the ring out enough to clear the bulb retainer and then slide it up and off.

Hey Keith, that is a 1968 Morris Minor LCV (light commercial vehicle) van bodied. It was originally exported to New Zealand in what they call a CKD (complete knock down) where it was assembled, then years later imported to the US from New Zealand, is RHD beast, Very much a dare to be different for sure....loads of fun. Kinda reminds you of the Dodge hump back panel.

check to ensure you are not running a 12 volt coil with internal resistor erroneous installed by the PO.....if it measures 3.4 ohms across the terminals...chunk it for a 1.4-1.7 ohm coil.

generator is also speed related on output and raising the speed from idle should increased the voltage to the fixed output set by the regulator. Do not overlook a loose belt also do not over tighten the belt either. The regulator should compensate for load when above idle....so if you putting out your approx 6.8-7.2 volts, and turn on the lamps, the amp meter should show a deflection toward discharge but quickly compensate for the current drain....again....engine speed and load go hand in hand.

if you do not have a repair manual, it is a good investment.... secondly there are many white papers online for these old systems to guide you along. Also, search of this forum will net many threads with related questions and fixes posted by the user.

sounds like some unnecessary steps assembling the engine....once the cover and hub is installed there should be no real reason to have to remove it again...but if you do, I could concede that point.

first off if your amp meter needle is not moving you have a dead battery or an open in the amp meter...it does not require the generator for it to show discharge, but will working generator/regulator needed to show charging....with the battery connected and the lights on the meter should indicate a heavy discharge....disconnecting a battery lead for quick test can confirm some output of the generator but is just that a quick test, proper diagnostics need to put forth to pin point any generator issues and these should be done in proper sequence. The factory book will easily walk you through this. You will need to determine a number of factors as right before assuming anything is wrong...battery, wiring, generator, regulator, fan belt etc etc.

if you over fill them or use explosives....but like anything else once the core casing has been violated, forget about it.....if they that questionable, look to upgrade...if just rollers and moving inside the shop....who cares if they bleed down in x hours....you got the move done. Otherwise I am hoping you not considering such casings for road use.

if all runs well when first started but acts up when hot after an engine stop and restart attempt in just a few minutes later....check for possible coil defective...weak spark...common problem.

but of course.....given you have a floor jack with a sufficient pad....for the record, most do...

the tool is a main feature of the engine, it is the crank shaft and pulley hub...you leave the bolts on the timing cover loose till the hub is installed on the crank thus aligning the timing cover and seal centric...then you snug up the bolts.

I bet she has difficulties grasping the concept of having to report to a physical address and stay there x hours for a pay check also.

many moons back we had a land fill that had a separate area for the wood from all other stuff.....it was free for the taking. I had snagged full size lumber, full sheets of plywood, and other misc building needs just for the time to load it in my truck. Nowadays, the liability issues prevents this. Greedy little pukes wanting to hit the insurance lotto.

creeper eliminators...three on hand.....

bearing can be bought by application and or physical dimension and type of seals integral to the unit

Good to see others taking time to contour in and weld up the panels for custom fit on modifications.....so tired of just holes in inner fenders or the sledge hammer look...👍

second the use of the 110 volt impact gun......my old Rockwell still performs where all others fall to the wayside. I never tighten with an impact, I like, have and use the battery tools for removing and running up, but torque wrench comes out then.

frankly trusting a stand to rest a car by supporting it by the wheels only is not my idea of being safe...would hate to read: He was steady at the wheel but the car was not. I can only recommend if blocking with items other than a proper jack stand to ensure you blocking on the chassis/axle. Sams wooden blocks are not made to fit beneath a tire. If he supports an axle tube, I would think a v notch would be nice to see also.