Plymouthy Adams

IT ALL FALLS ON DEAF EARS proper red matching the red on the car, primary or secondary color is not much an issue....only when the wheels are so drastically different than the body color does it scream out 'look at me' ....'look at me' and the car is now totally secondary to the wheels.....NOW I WILL admit that some cars could use these red wheels so folks may not focus on the car body/paint or lack thereof, guess there are always exception to the rules....I have one car recently purchased with red wheels, they are awful looking on the car and the car has been hid in the barn like the proverbial ugly duckling until alternate wheels arrive...thankfully the wheels have been located and be delivered from way up snow country way in a month or so. The replacement wheels I picked out are factory steel wheels but low production numbers and not very common as the second series and restyled units that while nice, is not the look I want.....holding out for the first series wheels.

this is in line to big aux lights go better with big standard lamps.....you have the opportunity to make a fellow hobbyist happy, line your pockets and do your car justice at the same time...but again...just my opinion.....this guy needs to lose the whore red wheels and go with body color either primary or secondary color will look better than this stark red.....again my opinion.....nothing says you cannot paint a car ugly....lol

On the same thinking as Todd, personally the Trippe lights in my opinion should be held in reserve for a car a bit larger....but again, just my opinion. They overshadow the regular lights....whereas the smaller units appear as a highlight and while attractive, do no command all the attention when viewed.

DON'T FEED THE BEARS looks like Boo-Boo has grown up

or some oil drenched fish and chips and a lukewarm lager......lol PS I do have a few registered Brit cars in captavity and double that in projects.......too much stuff too little time.

many folks are hoping by asking that there will be a step by step process whereas start with step 1 and at step 27 start the car and drive off....while you can get close with some more popular models and such....not so common on the Mopar side. This is why I always recommend the person get into the nuts and bolts comparing what he has and where he wants to go, tape measure, pencil and paper and proceed from there. IF there is a segment where he may need guidance, the come here for x engine x body x method to overcome an obstacle. There is absolutely nothing hard about doing swaps....there is however a time involved commitment to finish and stay focused, avoidance of cutting corners, safety at every level and the skill level to use the tools necessary for each task given the man has the needed tools to begin with. Farming out, will get you around specialty tools but will hit the wallet with a pretty good impact for the most part. AND the final advise I will supply, get to know your local rodders/builders and express your build concerns there, you will get tons of ideas and maybe a few offers to help with x segments.

Well, am sure there have been a number of successful and appropriate engines swapped and to be honest with you, if not a Mopar engine I discount the thread and never read no follow as the build has gone in a direction not to my liking. I have seen a number of underpowered swaps made, seen more than I care to mention of started project that were never completed. Not saying it is wrong, just wrong for me. I can state that I have a couple here that are all Mopar in the build but a tad more involved over that of just engine and transmission change. Lot deeper than majority of folks are willing to go with the complete modern Electonics packaged installed. There are retrofit harnesses out there for a few different powerplants that are plug and play but these are also come at a premium cost. Nothing hard about the retro fit, tine consuming and will require not only time from you, but proper tools and space to do the task. From there, just a manner of what level you wish to work toward for the end product. My only advice is to study what you have on hand to swap, plan to buy and swap, draw up a plan of attack, stick to it and remember, failure is not an option. Get out your tape measure and verify you can physically locate this or than where needed for it is a FACT, one mod usually will lead to two or more supporting mods.

not all 54's had a 230, the 230 was introduced alongside the 218. As you do not have the stock block to denote the diamond stamp, unless you are sure it was an automatic, the 230 could be a myth. The 230 was stock 55 forward to end of Plymouth flathead production. As for installing any other engine, there is really not a bolt on kit, there are some items sold here and there for folks that do not fabricate their own parts and force to 'buy and bolt' this also is usually not found in a ONE STOP SHOP

you will either repair the broken studs on the center covers and the trim itself as they are welded on the stainless steel or get luck and find some at a yard or swap meet or post a want ad here. Drilling these out and tapping them and installing bolts from the rear is what I did on a couple of mine that had issue. It is not hard, just got to have the tools and a bit of time and desire to do the task. As for the ones that do slip into the trim piece, generic cut to size clips are quick and easy here also.

This has been done, and it was posted appropriately for April 1st also on a LBC forum.... I would have bought some but I know my car was built early morning and they could not say if or if not morning or evening air in the can.....

SPRING REMAINDER

yeah, but in Young Sheldon, Annie Potts is the better Memaw character.....the Moon Pie from Chattanooga Bakery has always been a favorite of mine, the chocolate double decker is the one to get. I was at the wrecking yard yesterday pulling some parts while before they crushed the vehicle and stopped at the Mennonite country store for a soda and snack. If not a Moon Pie I will often grab a snack pack of Nutter Butters. This is also the only place I will stop and buy a soda....I drink so few soda. They also sell a very good bottled Birch Beer soft drink.

well, being deep south, I can only say I made a Moonpie disappear....

I got the sneaky feeling the man forgot to leave a bread crumb trail back to this site....he has two post only and both are this thread before he got answers...

pointy things are replacement hats for Tom Terrific...... (how many here did not have to look up who Tom Terrific might be?)

DeSoto is like the others with a few designer cues changed here and there, they are fewer in number than the sister cars.

Burger, Hawaiian bun, double cheese, hold the onion...!

Well, same here, the pup eventually become family and usually cause less trouble or heartaches. My little dog asks for nothing, gives all. I have had a number of dogs over the years and yes, they all been good animals. But this little guy, he is very special. He was 14 last Christmas...I have had pugs since early 80's....they my favorite breed. Here he is doing his Don King impression.

AS a REMINDER.....if you are doing the job...you SHOULD always be in control. Commercial blasters run full sand flow and full pressure for full damage to thin metal. Time is money, they do not have the time nor you the money to pay for a proper job, their thoughts are, you got body work to do as it is....they care less if it warps. If you have any experience or willing to listen and follow along with someone who has blasted a few cars/panels you have a good chance at success. You need to control not only your pressure but also your sand flow and adapt your pressure pot and technique to eliminate plugged media hoses when using the small pressure pot as from Harbor Freight or any other supplier. You WILL NOT warp a panel...you will make good headway be able to do a good job...you will be able control sand fallout and reclaim and reuse your media a number of times. It only takes a weekend to blast a full size car taking your time. Plenty other precautions one needs to take but does not take a rocket scientist to figure it out either. Do not linger in one spot...if heavily rusted move along and come back and repeat. WEAR PPE

sandblasting depends a lot on a dry air supply, proper control of the sand BEFORE the dead man on a pressure pot....I have the HF unit and have had zero issues by controlling sand flow at the outlet of the pot....else, you looking to plug your line.

I always liked this picture of earth at night from NASA....one small decorative globe hanging on the Christmas tree that is the universe

usually the best seat for this is your living room watching it on the TV....my only advice, to enjoy turn off the sound and deaded out the humdrum play by play commentary crap. If you have seen one eclipse you've seen them all....crossed this off my list long ago....

Key point to keep in mind is the amp meter feeds the ignition switch but also all HOT circuits. Many times the voltage loss is here and one needs only to clean and secure the wires affixed to the amp meter both from the battery and the down stream feeds.

is it anything like this total Eclipse...????

You don't need either of the above, just be sure to spend at least one night at a Holiday Inn.....PS sleeping in their parking lot does not count and renders you totally ineffective.