Plymouthy Adams

Europeans has a number of 5 cylinder entries....GM also markets a 5......and of course we all know most GM 5 cylinders are actually V8's with three dead cylinders due to burnt valves.

check for fit using a 1968 Dodge Dart /6 I have a slight recall of using one in a similar housing

...do look a the parts breakdown as it will show you the basic construction. The manual will walk you through the repair...if you do not have a manual and wish to tackle this I will not say it cannot be done but you do need some specs to go by, personally I recommend the book and close adherence to the procedure. These unit have been out there in excess of 70 years for the most part....a testament to their construction.

I agree on the return to original in fit form and function....but, the use of alternate lubrication was pointed out by me IS a band-aid fix....and until one has the time to take it apart and the sole problem is just loss of lube and not all slop...this will PROTECT the internals from accelerated wear that loss of lube will only guarantee...I would much prefer to hear the corn head grease is in there than leaking lube oil and the fact that a person could well forget to keep the lube loss topped off.

the box is sealed in numerous places and depending on the area it is leaking the extend of the repair and as none of it is hard to do including the sector shaft seal itself....you are the only one that can make that call. Have you even studied the parts breakdown of the sector in order to get an idea of what will be involved. If you do not have serious compromised surfaces on the gears themselves....in my opinion, an at home fix is quick and easy. Others as a band-aid have removed the 90 wt. oil and filled with other more solid less flowing but still provides very good lubrication....the farm industry corn head grease is one that has been a go to here by others. But if you have deep pockets and want the car disassembled for the turn around period sending it out for rebuild requires, this also is a very viable alternative.

my opinion is you asking the forum to ball park a price and only your local can do that and I am sure your local will want to inspect the actual tank prior to accepting the job and making of any price quote or statement of work. As for the work performed, ask the shop for references and testimonies on work prior performed for other customers. An up front shop should have no problems with any of these request. If you seen feet start tap dancing to your questions move out and away quickly. I assure you there would be no getting restitution or satisfaction after the fact. This is no different approach to any task/procedure farmed out in the course of this hobby.

how can I fix this...tape....? Seems that is the applied method...how did this turn out for you?

the rebound rubber is not to be in contact with the upper control arm EXCEPT when jacked and weight is off the wheel....long term storage in this condition will tend to distort the rubber...except for a poor look, if the rebound rubber is securely attached to the metal mounting vulcanized to the rubber, it is good to go....many, given there is space when working will for long term use wooden blocks to maintain a gap...

when you lower the rear ratio...……………...up the CUBIC INCHES...…..!!! I have the 2.76 in one vehicle and powered by a 383.....I have another 2.76 in the wings with the 400 mated big block....so while the 2.76 is not the gear of choice...if 8 3/4 it is easily swapped out later once installed. Odds are someone will swap with a you providing a tad of boot for them a highway gear and you a slight grunt gear.

I was not knocking your build please accept my apologies if I offended. I find your build very realistic in the fact that it can go out on the road in todays traffic and play well with others. This is important.....maybe sometimes I get a bit sensitive to the word "restored". We had three level of repair based mainly on availability where time was the main ingredient for return to use. Restore, Refurbish and Repair to work. Restore was back to original including finish, Refurbish was to replace parts that were marginal and beyond the adjustment allocations and then repair to work was the best alignment one can do in short order for operation knowing other work is warranted as soon as possible. Many take the less involved "repair to work" and call it restored. I like to use the term refurbished, it that it operates as intended but with only necessary new parts. Some call it personalized but to me that is usually meant to describe in appearance inside or out. Me, my cars get "Timmizied" as my one buddy likes to say.....he refers to my shop as Timmy Town.....works for me...I don't get hung up on such monikers.

PS as a side note on the distributor....while you can run either model distributor you MUST buy your tune up part based not on the year of you vehicle but the very model of the distributor use....there are issues in spark gap if mismatched rotor and cap are utilized.

oft times the premature failure of a pump can be attributed to ethanol fuel and way too often trash getting in the diaphragm of the pump...if you filter when taken apart for inspects show lots of rust particle/foreign matter...or the inlet screen on the pump....it is time for a good flushing of the tank, possible sealer applied though I do not care for sealers and new filters put in place...if one is good, two is better....

with all the modern stuff added and changes made from stock I cannot see how this car is restored....but I do appreciate the Chrysler alternator in place.....?

with the nut and welded shaft with an adjustable 90 degree stop plate....one can expect play here for sure....it is not a smooth close fit tolerance such as the tool provides. At best these home made tool are better than nothing but expect issues as above. I would have to also suggest you rock the tool in and out while reading a gap in center to find an average. Also with this tool you cannot with certainty set the gap between the shoe and drum a the specified distance per the book as you need to be able to read the drum and transfer this to the tool with the .006 difference.... BUT, again, it is better than many other methods of guessing. To what degree you can live with as a margin of error is a call only you can make and while a good pedal will most always result from this home version, wear patterns could be a bit off. If you can a drum inside caliper and an outside caliper and very good means to measure....you can get real close with these and get some assurance of a decent wear pattern over the life of the shoe.

I have no real personal experience in the pump with a spacer....but in looking the shape and style of the flathead 8 comes to mind as a possible misidentified pump sent to you...you can tell the flathead 8 as it has a notched lever that the notch is more center to the body of the pump with the actuating lever a tad longer it appears and relatively same riding position on the cam as the flathead 6 again, contact the seller or at minimum provide the part number associated with what he supplied. You could still be facing comingled parts/number in either case. Also you have not sumitted any finding on comparing new to old.

hard to say....could be a substitute with longer actuator lever....the block needed to position the lever on the cam proper and if this is the case you will need longer bolts for mounting. I would suggest a quick look at the old and new and compare length, shape position of the levers accounting for the block and make the call....if you are still uncertain, possible a return for correct model based of submitted pictures or a refund. Personally I have not encountered this but would not rule the scenario out. In any manner maybe the provider can shed more light onto the subject as it is his business/his product and his to best answer.

I guess I look at things in a different light and anyone wishing to move from here has that right and has made up his mind for whatever reason. I believe that the best respect for the man is not to plead for him to stick around without a driving interest but just to say thanks for his support and posts in the past and move on forward from there. So, thanks for your participation here and good luck to your future endeavors.

I did an emergency stop mowing the west orchard yesterday...little green garden snake crossed in front of me...barely saw him in time...he went by, turned, stuck his tongue out at me and went on his way...I resumed my mowing but still kept an eye out for him

that is an awful big cut on finish after going to the trouble of such a nice wooden bed floor and bed side rebuild...even the worst of paint looks better than the best of nothing and will add protection to the time you decide to go over it for a better finish down the road.

the small portion of solder will not add to the weight in a fashion it should affect the float unless you just flat out glob it on without any flow technique applied....that float above appears ABS and not the phenolic resins I am accustomed in replacement/modern floats.

the brass fuel float is an easy repair....you can often find the pin hole by drying the outside with the fluid inside and look for the wet spot....little applied heat..(no flames, say hair drier) to evaporate the inner liquid and just solder the hole...you back in business, have done this a number of time over the course of many decades of tinkering about carbs. The composite should very well do the same job as original but they are often susceptible to saturation by absorption adding some weight. Be careful not to scratch them. They more prone to failure in many cases.....but...plastics and composites are here to stay. We work around them, I feel to some certainty that a tad lower and you be golden. Any pump functioning close to spec will keep you fueled up.....Set your fuel level not by the top of float but by a scribed line noting the fuel level on the fuel bowl...lower the level by actual fuel and not float body measurement.

the lowering of the float can be done to the extent that in truth you have fuel to operate under your normal driving conditions without running out of fuel during periods of acceleration. Percolation was a problem with normal fuels of the past and is greater with the modern blends. Heat shields and insulation plates between intake and carb help also. Another side effect of high float level depending on carb used as some retrofit but still seldom seen here due to the fact not many corner hard in these puppies or do nose dive braking....this splash over also can trigger a flood condition that results in sputtering or shut down. The test of restart hot for coil on sustained after immediate shutdown is good...but sometimes heat saturation can attribute...depend on coil mount but if mounted factory should be reliable test. Percolation due to saturation is however a cooking process as the engine block will increase in temperature when shut down....restart will see the fall of the temp rise when circulation resumes.

percolation is so easy to identify and in my opinion is all to often the culprit in hard restarts but I never rule out the degrading heated coil especially if the car will start quickly once cooled about 30 minutes....do check both.....if not but for reassurance

like them last few words...………...totally OBD (our boy Don)

I would suggest about 1/8 an inch...the fuel reserve is the typically the call for the float level to ensure you do not run out of fuel at WOT sustained runs....with the normal working fuel pump be it upgrade electric or even stock mechanical can easily keep your fuel bowl filled and I am willing to bet you do not race about at WOT all the time. Anyway, it is a place to start and do not overlook the fact that your float can be damaged by PO's in there before you or even contain a bit of fuel if its integrity is breached.