Plymouthy Adams

@T120 (or anyone else for that matter) as a Canadian, and the Windsor engine plant located there, would you happen to know what the QRS designation stands for....? If I ever knew, I will admit to CRS and failure to write it down it has only been some 45+ years ago....

some application would use the governor, others just have no need to further advance timing...your car engine does not need vacuum advance except as a tool for economy....

one of the biggest differences in some of the stationary/IND is the lack of vacuum advance....longer throw on the 230 crank....why the shorter rod..

using another bearing cap will require you to do an align bore.....whatever picture/link you posted...it is a postage stamp on display....

would have been a better video if you were to plow through that black chebbie truck....?

Billy, at top right of page is your name, click on your name, go to Settings.....click on Acccount settings, go to e=mail, click on change.....enter new address....

be sure you do not have a bearing cap out of order.......

look up and read on using centric hub and wheels when mounting to an axle/spindle and when they do not match the application of a centric ring.....many feel on these cars with their lower speed and what not this is not a point worth pondering longer than a fart will last in a whirlwind...your call, you can go stud centric if you wish.....but at least you should be familiar with the terms and application when it come to your car and your retrofitting. quick search of terms on the internet nets great articles for your reading pleasure and bring you up to speed on what you are really working with.....

AND...have a couple quarts of oil on standby as you are surely going to blow a bit of it out at sustained engine speeds.....

mopar fits ford....ford does not fit mopar.....both are centric fit but different registers.

not necessarily true....there should not be a P code 265.....the P26 should be factory at 230 and the only 6 offered for 1955 and unless it has a Canadian origin, should be 23 inch variety...if not...then previous owner interventions may apply

it is easier to match the angle of your existing factory set correct and tested pinion angle in regard to the perches and just duplicate that to the donor and be done one operation...now if you have set another engine and tranny in this upgrade...default to the two step if you did not take your calculation when setting the eng/trans combo

sweet thing about hydraulics is they self purge so easily on application.....exercise it and let the big dog eat..

go forth son and blaze a trail that other may follow you in your path.....if this is what you want, there is no reason not to set forth on that journey...

the forward spring hanger is already at width of the frame where it mounts now and is riveted in place...you can do as you wish but I have never found a need to change the spring format other than perch location to the donor axle for install. You can...graft an extension to the inner side of the frame and weld here to widen the forward mount and cut the inside up right and weld a upright a bit wide to the opening of the newer spring....keep in mind you want this to be an "L" and weld back to the original bracket cut and and also to the newly added extension with your holes aligned properly for the silent block. It is doable, considered this very thing myself but again, closer study did not prove it advantageous over stock springs. Now if perches to retrofit to the donor were an issue in source and cost...then it would deserve another look-see.....odds are your mind is already made up as to what you want to do and you are here to seek a blessing or maybe forgiveness....your car, you goals, your money....the mopar gods are in good spirits today...go forth with their blessings...

other than the door jamb wiring I have never in all my life suffered a wiring issue that WAS NOT directly related to gnawing rodent teeth...I's one lucky person I guess....! This is not to be confused with poor connections of lighting sockets and grounds. Those are not wire issues...they connection issues.

all makers suffered the door wiring harness issues...even you will on a refit over time and daily use...you know you have a successful and well followed car when the aftermarket caters to it....

not sure where all these are popular, wind and flat open lands to operate...but they have evolved into some pretty high tech and lighter weight buggies...they are referred to by many different names...personally I thought those would be a hoot to play with but never lived in an area where one would be practical to build and play with....maybe a bucket list adventure/thrill....

going to change your name...you are Ed Zachery right about upgrading.....

clean the hog head and read the numbers is even a more simpler method to arrive at the ratio

ratio as stock is dependent on a couple thing.....first is the wheelbase.....second is the area for which it was shipped and sold.....111 was stock 3.73....118 stock at 3.9 hilly and OD factory....4.1 and of course we must never forget that regardless of stock what some PO may have swapped out for whatever reason.....as 52 is the target year in question...OD played a part in later part of production....these OD were kitted and sold/installed by dealerships into other cars...dealer prepped non title cars of 1951 would be considered stock OD...these did not receive gear changes at the rear end....so a 111 WB car could have OD and 3.73

you'd never have that problem with a flathead 6.....

ugliest thing on the lot...the Jeepster....useless vehicles

Latch onto the panel truck when doing so....make it worth your while....pizza, six pack and a phone number that may or may not still be current....lol

a real Munson I tell ya....