Plymouthy Adams

I agree with the added room for a tad of juggling....but many here will not like the look once the job is done but in truth, stock wheels will be an issue here for the overall end look and the key element in the statement above...staying stock wheels. I also firmly believe if anyone is in the frame of mind to swap out an axle they serve themselves best by breaking out the tape measure and making a trek to the wrecking yard. Another point is this is the question is solely related to the width of the axle and not yet addressing the engagement of the rear e-brake....oh yeah, that comes later....in truth, both should be considered prior to any selection. also.....there is the very clearance needed to get the tire from the axle when changing a flat.....granted shop condition are ideal for the most part but along side the road getting the body high off the rear suspension can be a task...

if you are planning to retain your original wheels....the axle length is critical...different size shoes on the same axle will alter any measurement taken at the backing plates. It is best to take your measurements at the mounting flange of the axle with drums in place...this will be the mounting surface to mounting surface and will need to match your original so your wheels will be back to the same track width. Get it too wide you will need positive offset wheels....get it too narrow you will need spacers...new perches for the transfer are usually easy to locate as this size is used in the trailer industry. Be sure to match your pinion angle or in the case of your newer engine retrofit, phase the driveshaft accordingly.

no...springs lock into the cups back side of the fork...

sounds like you disturbed the over center spring or outside of the free play conditions on initial setup that prevents the over center from working properly....suggest you go back to square one and follow the procedure step by step in the repair manual....hard to say anything other than this based on not being there observing...

what...no comment on the cowl mounted swans.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the PV544 are sharp cars in my opinion......I always liked them and while back was able to buy one at a fair enough price to make it worth grabbing...mine is a 1962 Sport.....I have only bought new metal for it so far and have it stored with the car....should be a fun project...

PS...store the lift raised...the cable are under the ramps and less exposure.....again, good grease....maybe some drop over covers of the columns to shed a good deal of wet.....

my outside lift, 4 poster, did not last but a couple weeks outside due to my choice......though it was roofed over and all....I could not handle the wind blowing in leaves and other debris....neighbors cats and other environmental issues...I quick enclosed the carport section, added the 10 x 30 lean-to work area and benches etc. built three sets of drive through doors and called that done....I feel better having it secured. My friend still has his lift outside basically open and sitting on a concrete pad only...requires heavy grease on the cables....weather proof enclosure for the pump assembly....he has really not had issues with it that I am aware of....I have observed it a couple times over the years but not of late....maybe two years since I have been to his place and walked outback to the work area. shop in the town next to my area has one that has been out of doors for some 20 years....observed it day before yesterday and while did not do a close up inspection...it looked in good shape and still shiny paint.

Frankie, when you going to learn, always beat your cat at every opportunity so that if something goes wrong it will run to the neighbors house....

2 inches even in a sedan is not much.....but something to keep an eye on....will not affect the phasing given you use good perches...the rear bushings are not shot and I have never seen a bad silent block yet but would never go forward without checking it...but yes...the 49 is the most narrow one year application axle and this may be your ticket home...

one can fit a 'floating' cap in a single position.....I have done this one time in my life and ran the dog snot out of that engine with no detrimental effect in longevity. Careful measurements need be taken and adhered to.....maybe best for his machine shop to do the correction....

the shorter rod is to provide the longer throw of the crank to move the piston deeper into the bore thus creating an increase in cylinder volume while the upper portion of the throw moves the piston back closer to top of the block with the piston.....this slightly larger throw creates the larger displacement (X times 6) is also the mathematical increase of CR 218/230 given they share the same bore and piston...

Per motors manual, 1956 Dodge 315 V8 were factory serviced with the Autolite AR52 spark plug....these are long reach. If you have been running short plugs...you may now have carbon fouled threads and require chasing prior to installing the correct reach plug....

I feel your pain....but even if you put the correct cap on the correct journal, you still have the problem of front to rear orientation....reverse this and you can now have an offset in the bore....again, one should have marked the caps prior to removal to allow not only position in rank...but placement in the block....

depends on the circuit....odds are the lightest for 6v is 16 gauge.....

wire gauge is irrelevant if you looking for it to operate the dome light...

instrument light low / off / instrument lights high...

page 141 shows a picture that could well be the very identical twin to this picture as it clearly states.... THIS IS WHAT MAY HAVE IF YOU DO NOT CORRECTLY IDENTIFY BOTH CENTER BEARING CAPS BEFORE REMOVING

dash in the middle....that is the postage stamp cancellation mark....

drive faster........make up for the lost time.....

live in a rural area, winding roads that undulate.....drive a Porsche....really have fun....

I can spell out two scenarios.....

without measuring you have the engineering code on your block...resource this number first....

I think you could have found a better suited donor axle.....adding spacers to an axle you really need to think the centric application over a bit closer.....IMHO it is not wise to set a non centric spacer/adapter then set a non centric wheel to that spacer/adapter.....you should take break, grab a coffee and contemplate what you doing and where you are going with this build. Lugnuts match the wheel bolt seat....some are standard conical, some are bulge and the universal aftermarket are usually shank....match the wheel as factory stock....this is the clamping force that is needed to keep the wheel on the car...

my 73 Dodge with the 225 had a decal on the engine, Windsor QRS...it was by far the best running slant six I ever owned and I have put many many miles on cars equipped with the /6. I have tried various sources to determine if and what the QRS stood for....have come up empty every time. Windsor was the Canadian engine plant. In 73 was the introduction of the /6 with hardened valve seats....am not sure if these were flame or induction hardened....did this played a role in the designation, no clue here.