Plymouthy Adams

the liability of todays products rest on the shoulder of the maker as it seems the common man is no long accountable for anything including stupidity. This results in products no longer capable of doing the job down to where it takes many applications and such to do the job. Got to protect the man who choses not to protect himself. The move to remove solvents and other chemicals has made a steady change in most all OTC solvents, strippers and the like rendering many so tame they useless. Many areas one can no longer get chems to work with and often comes with a signature for accountability.

@chrysler1941on your 41 Chrysler, a question....is the small lens you referring to a glass globe and cast as part of the larger lens or are you referring to the small inset round dot lens that is recessed into the housing above the lens. My two 1941 Dodge D19's have neither a globe or a a recessed glass dot built into the housing. There was no rhyme or reason sometimes for particular appointments and what was done to one model did not extend to all across the board. Another thing we must all consider with these old cars, previous owner, aftermarket parts...unless you have owned this car from day one...originality is up for grabs.... IF you referring to the dot recessed into the casting...left and right is red.....even when later the use of the Stimsonite style lens in the housing one year the Plymouth (P15) were actually clear then went red till end of the built in reflector. Little joking here but a layman's car such as the Plymouth might be found parked on any dark street thus a distinct need for the added reflector..the Chrysler on the other hand will be garaged and or valet/desiginated parking.....lol

protruding lens is clear...and only on the side of the vehicle as parked WITH traffic as per law back then and still in many areas. lt is designed to gather light from approaching car from rear and illuminate the lens as a reflector. The other side of the car is both sold factory without a protruding matching globe and with a red globe based on when and where you aftermarket. If you have red lenses on both sides. one is right the other is wrong...if you have two clear lens globes, one is right the other is wrong. show your car for points at an official meet...this is the ruling.... L. Lighting Only the left hand tail lamp lens on the Deluxe P10 model had the “reflector knob” on it. All P9 tail lamp lens and the right P10 tail lamp lens were plain.

Los, as a member of the forum and as one member to another, we can only volunteer suggestions based on the data provided...we neither are in the position to look over his shoulder and or direct the task be it testing or repairs. If you think a response falls on deaf ear, turn the blind eye and move on to another thread it is not worth the worry.

per your description I would have to ask what is your total advance.....first is the mechanical and is it in the ball park....now add you vacuum for max total and see if you may be advancing a bit too far and leaning out too much....you will need a better built timing light with the dial to check timing advance....or at least a timing tape

trucks ride like high priced luxury cars today.....most of them are used in same manner and never see a payload that a real truck would experience. The Challanger....purpose built...not supposed to be comfortable in it...you got to stay alert and top of your game....there is no rhyme or reason for the ridiculous power many cars have today....other than...because they can and folk wanting what they don't need.

I read your other post...you got plenty to do without thinking of stripping paint. I got the box finished stripping with the razor blade and will take the light primer off with the stripper when the weather is on my side. About 30 sq feet stripped by the blade, tad over 40 I would guess all in all...not bad for an afternoon or so...

its official...stripped the remain panel with a razor blade to bare metal...not a sign of flashing anywhere.....the stripper is the root cause for the flashing. Anywhere you wiped the panel and had a bare sign of stripper residue, flash rust.......this is good stuff....but definitely your fair weather friend....I would place it in the category along with other hydroscopic products.

Thursday I bought a gallon paint stripper to prep the van box with. I used it Thursday and Friday...no problems, worked quick and easily removed the paint. Today, results is a bit varying. I have to use two coats to strip the paint as with this rainy day...the product seems to dry quickly whereas before on a nice sunny day it stayed wet. Strange stuff, I apply one more light coat to clean the panel of all residue. Now the killer, the panel is flash rusting immediately. Now of course it is raining today but I am inside. I have to do an immediate wipe with phosphoric to check the flash rust. The days before were still quite humid and would have expected a bit of flash then. Am thinking to finish this side and let the big dog sleep till the rain passes. Anyone else ever see immediate flashing of the panel with rust. This is Jasco stripper, seems all the stripper product formula have been changed of late and this one is actually a water clean up solvent. Soon as it hits water it jels and balls right up. I bought Jasco as my other normal brand was not available in a jelly like semi paste that would stick to vertical surfaces.

be careful to depress the spring loop just enough to slide it from the end of the shaft and not break this fairly fragile tang....

Well I will still be at my project come that time. I had a long break in late fall through early spring working shop build and reconfiguration and second lift install. I am currently stripping paint from the panel box which unbolts from cab and chassis. Making headway but will be quite a bit of work on the box getting it to primer state. Heck I have but just glanced at the doors...but if I recall, they plenty solid. Looking forward to seeing some updates folks have accomplished and will set out to do this day.

as an added my seat was also out of that car at the time...big big help....

If anything like my Plymouth, with the steering wheel off, the floor panel removed....I would think it would be ok as is...I recall no issues.

might be time to square up the exhaust seat and refresh the valve....

kinda like the clowns that stop here asking why I don't have any GM products for sale or being worked....I answer...because I have a choice....we work on nothing we don't like....!

did you consider any of the variety of battery disconnect switch often for on many little sport cars....most use these as quick disconnect for safety

I do not have a distributor laying about that is for that era or what they calling late....for sure the picture is a different points plate that shown in my Plymouth book. Now the only difference per my documents is the later model did change to the 1AT as opposed to the earlier units of DeSoto running 1GS This change was per my book in Plymouth with 1GS in 49 and 1AT in 50 with some reference to a 50 could have the 1GS yet. The other three did similar year changes but they also had a few different model distributors in the earlier models. What is the distributor number if you know? May tell a bit more as to what is going on. Could this have been changed over the years. In the US and on this forum we stress using the distributor number for parts over year and make for this very co-mingling of parts since new.

I have done similar here myself....and own up to it when it happens.......thanks for the reply.

what book is that from if I may ask

you ask for the documentation and I have provided it....doubt all you want, go into denial to your heart is content.....again the point was that IT IS IN PRINT in not one but two of the most respected repair manuals you can resource....................and while I will not deny the fact you have a book saying the moon is made of cheese, my children are long gone from the nest and those books are no longer read........?

often the very drive to keep it simple is the very thing that complicates it...not a one of us here I would think has not been guilty of that at one time or another. Sam's suggestion is on the money....if you have flare tool, buy some tubing and "roll your own" either way.....you now going to have to fish or cut bait.

out and about with an old car, driving or towing it home you are most always going to get waves, horn beeps, thumbs up, craned/turning necks as they go by and most always a conversation at the gas pump if you have to refuel on your adventure. I experience all these on my trip home with the car in tow a few days back. It is even better when a person actually knows what you have. Enjoy your ride..you worked hard enough to get there....and often the build is the majority of the fun

that scan appears to have come straight out of a Motors repair manual as the source...it is very strange manner the fact that in the Motors manual under the Big three, Dodge, Chrysler, Desoto there is no mention of the 7 position...but if you flip to the working mans car section under Plymouth they state in my edition of MOTORS that from 1940-55 (book covers 1940-55) that to align to the 7 position also. All this fuss is not the fact that one can do as they wish and it will run aligned other, it is the denial it is in print that seems to be the issue. It seems to always be in the Plymouth book and not the other three. The D24 book I have is so lacking in details and such compared to my Plymouth book for same years. for the DT's I post this. Sorry but I could not get the file correct and save the rotated position....both scans clearly identified from Plymouth repair manual/section. And clearly even if this was added a bit later in the manual, these manuals were in print long before most of us were of age to walk much less drive. ..

I am not disputing the fact that it makes no difference...nor will I question your mind and ability to recall your settings...but my statement was to follow the book for the next guy along the ownership trail should it be sold. I am merely stating the FACT that it is in the book....and my book covers through Plymouth 1954 and there is no reference to 49/50 flipped. Agree also with you that your book source is 42 and back and even my book dated that period does not make mention of the 7 position....however it is true forward post war, to that end there is no question, just facts in print....! Also let us not forget the question as asked by the OP and the posted vehicle in his profile is post war....