greg g

Pressure relief port in the mc clear and flowing?

Just put #1 in the 5 hole and go from there with the rest of the firing order. Then document the situation for future reference and the next owner. Engine won't know the difference.

Don't forget municipal and regional airports. Lots of Clark tugs, and towed auxiliary ground support equipment had Chrysler flatheads. Also forklifts, welders and compressors, older bombardier snow cats, some can be found in sidewalk plows cities used. Irrigation pumps, for agriculture and maybe even golf courses. And speaking of golf courses, groundskeeping equipment, college campuses too.

Try a bit nore pressure in the radials. I run 205 75 15 uniroyals on my 46. Have them at 35psi. They have about 45000 miles on them, are worn evenly, track well. Only adjustment I made was to the full toe in setting.

The best thing you can do for your engines performance is to boost the compression ratio. This assumes the rest of the engine is in good working order. .030 to .050 milled from the cylinder head will put your compression ratio up a point and a half or so. With this change you can also advance the timing a few degrees for better throttle response. You can also open up the intake and exhaust ports to match the gasket hole sizes. The 201 is never going to be a neck snapper, but it can be made more lively through these inexpensive modifications. Contact forum member Mark Duggan, he runs a small export business and seems to be able to find vintage intakes and exhaust pieces for our overseas friends. To reach him send an email to the company's e mail, or check their website for more information. Meanwhile be on the lookout for a 230 engine to replace your 201. It's a bolt for bolt swap. There is a 15 to 20 hp increase with stock, and more potential for benefit of after market stuff mounted on a 230. The later 230 had 130 to 135 hp from the factory . Mark@rdusaclassics.com

Hurrah to you for your use of jumper wires as bench test, troubleshooting tool. Hope you can locate better quality. Although, your stock lighting looks more than adequate for its job.

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Did the different brands have individual color for thr leatherette pieces. Mine includes 5he rears of the front seats, the door bottoms, the seat frame trim and the bulkhead for the trunk. My car is a 46 Plymouth business coupe which has a light maroon color. I am assuming that all p15s were the same. Never seen enough Dodges or Desoto to notice if they are different. Think I have some pictures in my attachments. All mine are original except the door buttoms. M

Yes the design is tapered. It primary function is to direct coolant up from the slots on top to the area under the valve seats. The shape and size of the slots assures equal flow to all the areas around the seats.

You will want to get new rubber mounts for the engine, new gaskets, and seals,, new pistons, rings. Rods can be reused if not in bad shape. New crank and rod bearings especially if they require machining.New timing gears and chain, new water distribution tube if yours is corroded. Valves and seats can be reused depending on condition, freeze plugs need to be replaced after boiling out the block. New valve guides.. Might want to get a new oil pump but I reused mine. Water pump, new h9ses and belts, new thermostat. Some folks get new heabolts some clean up and reuse the old ones.. if you choose new,, keep the ones that have the threaded heads.they come in handy. New spark plugs wires and tune up stiff for the distributor number on the dist data plate starts with three letters. Look at what is available from different sources. Egge for rings and pistons, vintage power wagons, Terrell machine parts for internal parts, Robert's motor parts, Andy burnbaum. And a couple others. Money can be saved by shopping different sources rather than getting a kit from one vendor.

2 d 1 is code for a two filament bulb so high low in each bulb.

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Motorola high resolution camera.

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Just now got one for printing supplies and Cooper tires. Seems these guys are the company behind these https://www.connection.com/configurators/supplies-world?cm_mmc=Criteo-_-Ink Toner with Finder-_-Epson-_-Feed&cm_mmca1=10061966-Epson Black High-Capacity Ink Cartridges for Stylus CX5000, CX6000 + CX7000F Printers (Dual Pack)&cm_mmca5=Business&cm_mmca6=Transactional-Prospecting&cm_mmca7=No

Nope!

Right now I have banners for Large HD monitors from a company called connections Celtic jewelry Women's underwear and foundations. By EVO Headphones by Focal Electronic connectors by Sweatwater. None of which I have searched for in the last 48 hours I did just do a search for rechargeable hearing aids, and earlier inthe day what the proper atf fluid is for my 07 Mitsubishi . No ads for either of them yet.

Neither will a 6v function at its best on 12v...

So are your lights fairly new or have the been there 10 or 15 years. Are your lights properly grounded? P15 headlights ground to an area that gets all the crap the tires throw up. Is your sheet metal there in good shape to provide a good ground? Is your cars body grounded by a dedicated ground strap to the frame or engine? Or you counting on body mounts bolts that have been there for 80 years? Doctor Ohm says 40 watts is 40 watts whether it's 12v or 6 volts. Switch or wires and connections in good shape? Would relays help?

Make a separate dedicated wire from one of rhe mounting screws to a known good ground. Also squish the socket a bit oval with pliers so the bulb is tightysecured in the socket. And if your bulbs don't have the offset mount pins, make sure the brighter element is indexed to the signal and the dim one aligned to park. The dim element doesn't have enough resistance to trigger the flasher. It will light up but not flash.

Turn signal repeater. Red is highbeam.

Do first and reverse grind a bit going into gear from neutral while stopped, or does second grind a little when downshifting? Try this, before shifting into first or reverse, momentarily select second with the clutch pedal at the floor. If grinding is less or goes away this indicates the clutch is not completely stopping in neutral at idle. When you try to select second, the synchro pack stops the clutch from turning the input shaft which decreases the likely hood of gringing. Your clutch rod that pushes the throw out fork needs to be adjusted so it's longer and pushes the throw out farther so the friction disc stops spinning completely. This will lessen the grinding selecting first and reverse at rest, will allow the synchro to stop the input shaft on the upshift from low to second and second to third and will also help on the high to second down shift. The clutch rod is easily adjusted with a couple wrenches. On a further note, I have discovered with that when the overdrive is engaged, and is in freewheeling mode under 30 mph, low gear can be engaged under 15 mph or so with very little grinding. Another perq of running the overdrive unit.

Talking about axle bearings and grease, you should find small plugs screwed into the outer axle ends. People are tempted to put zerk fittings in these and add grease with a pressure gun. DONT DO IT! While these plugs are meant to feed grease, the grease is meant to be thumbed in on an occasional basis. The gun will bypass the seal introducing axle grease onto the backing plates. Note also the splitter fitting for the rear brake fluid lines contains a ventilator to relieve heat pressure in the differential. If the vent gets plugged, the pressure can also defeat the axle seals.

Loose or broken brake return spring inside the drum?