greg g

Time for the vintage engine cocktail again?.

My dad used to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly, prior to installing.

I have a note in myp15 manual that that fronts are Monroe 5752. 62156 is a Gabriel number for rear.

My info was in the 46 to 51 edition.

I can't comment on the dimension as my math sucks. Just a note that if you look carefully you will notice the same guide is used for intake and exhaust, but they are installed differently. One end is square shouldered, the other rounded. I don't remember which is which but they go one way for exhaust and opposite for intake. My manual uses the term counterboreld, and indicates the counter bored end goes down on intake, up for exhaust. This book says intake clearance. 001 to .003 and exhaust .003 to.005. It says to micrometer the stem and ream as needed to achieve specified tolerence. Don't know how critical the countebored thing is but something to be of concern for dealing with heat, so for peak longevity of your rebuild its a concern. It mentions chilling the guides to make installation easier. But making sure they are at shop temp before reaming.

Are you going to be running phenolic spacers? Is hood clearance a concern?

Thanks for the swift reply. 23 years? Doesn't seem possible.

For those of us who haven't logged out in nearly 20 years, what will the new drill be? Speaking of 20 years or more, is this wonderful and helpful great site coming up on a significant anniversary? When did this forum initially go live?

The burping is seeking its own operational level. Rule of thumb is cool expansion area at top of radiator should be mostly empty. As long as the coolant covers the top of the cooling core you are good to go. Where is the overflow outlet. Inthe tank or on the filler? If on the filler, is the opening below the radiator cap sealing gasket or above it?

Sad news. Being in the hospital these days is not something anybody should have to face. Wish you the best as you face this. Will miss your input and point of view.

Visit the nail polish area of your local drug store. They got all the reds you could ever need.

The other thing to do is to replace the wire from ignition with a jumper to 5he battery. Put a toggle in it to control when you want the coil hot. Also allows for shut down from your remote position. A friend has made a box he carries with him . It's a square double outlet electric work box which has a power in wire with a momentary button for the solenoid and a toggle switched line to power coils. Won't work on modern stuff with individual coil packs but is handy with 30s to late 70s vehicles.

Mine has seen several bursts to indicated 75. This with the 4.11 rear end. Haven't tried it with the od engaged. Usually cruise 55 to 60. When rebuilding this engine, I asked the machinest about peak rpm for long engine life, he said most of these long stroke motors are fine to 80 to 85 % of the listed rpm where the factory rated peak hp. So since most of these engines in cars were rated at 3600, you would be looking at 3200 to 3300 as a sustainable rpm assuming everything is as it was meant to be inside the engine. When I did my chassis dyno pull, my calculation with the 225 75 15 tire diameter suggested my limit was 3300 rpm. The dyno instruments showed that 62 mph was arrived at 3280 rpm with those tires and the 4.11 gears. So 3300 would be 63/64 over the road. Have since calculated that the od drops that by apx. 900 rpm or 2400 give or take for 60 ish plus or minus. If when we need to jump on the interstate, she goes up to indicated 65. Nearly everyone else is going 10 over or more, so we keep our limited access miles to aminimum, as folks don't pay much attention to overtaking peed differences these days. Top speed, don't know probably wouldn't pull 3600 in od, might make 4000 in third So 75 maybe?

Some times swapping the drive shaft end for end will address a vibration situation. If all your driving is on smooth roads, the balls never move much along the length of the trunion. This will cause the trunions to wear in the same position making one spot at both ends to wear. Even as little as the amount mentioned can cause an annoying vibration. When you swap ends, this will move the balls away from the worn spots. Honda had a similar issue with some of its all wheel drive cars like the c CIVIC STATION WAGON, EARLY CRVs, and Elements. Since the rear differential was mounted solidly to the sub frame, the drive shaft never moved up or down, the u joints would wear,ovaling out, causing vibration. When the customer was told the ujoints weren't available individually and the whole drive shaft needed to be replaced which included the new joints. This caused a lot of unhappy customers, a run on low milage drive shafts from the recycle yards, and a drive shaft remanufacturing business to start up.

I used to be a guru, now just a member...dont believe a word I say...

I got the same notification yesterday, and like Jack I have been a member since 2001 or before. Mus have been the result of the site revision that just happened. I also got a badge for number of posts or similar, 19000, posts in a year, wow.

Brass maybe? Stainless might not be compliment enough.

I used bronze Hammerite hammered finish paint. It somes in silver also. I selected the Bronze just cuz. I7 years later it is holding up well. I believe Hammerite is no longer available in the US, though it is still available in Canada. Supposedly the rustled is hammerite rebranded. Have used both on various items. Like the hammerite better for finish and durability. First item was a 306 heater, the hammerite was about a 98% match to the original finish. https://www.thepaintstore.com/Hammerite-s/316.htm

A few years back, I rewired my stop light switch. It gets power now from the battery side of the starter solenoid through an in ine fuse. I did this as I have 3 55 watt bulbs for three lamps. When the engine is running at idle and the brake pedal is pushed, the Amp gauge shows a 10 to 12 Amp positive charge. I believe this is because the VR senses the load on the battery and kicks in the field so the generator covers the load. Guess you need to start looking for unintended loads like brake lights stuck on, bendix not fully releasing, heater fan wanting to run. Or a direct short from crossed wires with worn insulation. You could start by checking all the circuits that operate with ign switch off like brake lights, horn, head lights. Disconnect their feeds one at a time to try to isolate the circuit. Or discon the new battery cable and use a jumper to power individual circuits till you find the one or ones causing the meter to jump around.

Does it steady when you turn on the lights? Probably just need to dress the points inthe regulator most likely the ones controlling the field coil circuit. Points files are best as sand paper and Emory cloth can leave minerals behind that will encourage arching. If you have a bit of thin leather, or even some course non corregated cardboard, they will clean them also. Get the car in a low light spot and with it running, check to see if there is any archinggoing on from the wires on the generator. The field coil I'd the thinner of the two terminal studs, it goes to the floor terminal on the regulator. The thicker on is the armature it carries the generator charge output from the gen, to the regulator, then back to the battery. Make sure your connections in those circuits are are clean and tight, and that the insulation is all in good order.

Spark o matic also. One of them had a reversed pattern where 1st was away and up, 2nd was back and toward you and high was toward you and forward.

If I recall. There was an Ansen, a Mr Gasket and Fox Craft that were available from independent retailers, via catalog and from Western Auto. Maybe Goodyear and Firestone stores.

And how does one exploit these advantages? The Edmunds head I have would bleed coolant from between the cooling fins, and the temp sender had to be filled in and re drilled and tapped because some hamb handed mechanic cross threaded it. And it saved about 12 pounds of sprung weight d from the front end,, but it did look nice...

Did I just read that these heads are 2000.00 usd? Man for 50 bucks you can mill a late head and have very nearly the same compression ratio. Yeah, I know, no eye candy, but that candy is money that could be spent to upgrade brakes, rebuild the front steering or suspension or grab and rebuild an overdrive.

Several videos on your tube. First on that popped up was 2 terminal gauge with ohm mete set at 2k. Larger diameter post should be + or power in.