greg g

I live out side of Syracuse, but it's kinda chilly for a road trip. Do you have a lighted test probe. If not, get one. The light will be dim on 6v but it will work. Do you know what the brake light switch looks like? Have you looked to see if your headlight switch has a built in fuse? I am not familiar with the 39s but my 46 has an integrated 30 Amp fuse in the switch assembly. If you haven't had juice through those circuits in 10 years, I would suspect you have corroded connections. And corrupted grounds, and probably some rodent gnawing as well. Identify what you have put up some pics. Go to the parts store, or harbor freight, get a tester, a spool of 12 gauge wire, two small alligator clips to make a jumper wire. Make a 8 foot jumper wire with a clip on each end then get back on here and we can talk you through some basic trouble shooting, circuit tracing, etc.

High range was the driving gear. Low was to be used in low traction conditions like mud, snow, hills and sand. Leave it in high range and use full throttle to accelerate to traffic speed. Keep in mind the words of Enzo Ferrari, "We don't have rear view mirrors, because what'sa behind, she`sa no matter!

Don't know if this fits, but the written description is a hoot. Love the name. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WMWTTGP/ref=sr_1_115?c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Carburetors&qid=1648483681&s=automotive&sr=1-115&ts_id=15727371

Cycle the dimmer switch about twenty times. Then take a test probe light, and see where your 0roblem is. Also make aj umper wire and connect the lamp directly to the battery. My bet would be poor grounds, or too much resistance through the dimmer, 9r corrosion on the terminal block where the wires going out to the head Lamps. Also cycle the head light switch many times to clear corrosion there.

I put flattened it when I roller painted my Studebaker truck.

More than 20feet?

The acc post is hot with the key in run position. It is als9hot when turned counter clockwise one click. This enables items like fan, radio horn to be on going down the road with ignition on. The counter-clockwise position allows radio, courtesy lights and other add on accessories ( spot light fog lights etc) to be on with ign off. So while you are parked, listening to the radio, spotting deer,, you aren't cooking points and coil. As far as the horn either one is up to you.

Battery tender is on, priming bottle is filled. Will be cranking her over this afternoon, in anticipation of a ride tomorrow. Gotta change the garage over from winter storage mode to driving and work around spacing. Snow plow and snow blower will get run dry and go into the shed. Got doctors Apts Monday afternoon, maybe we will combine wellness checkup for Kate too.

. My car has a comfortable spot between 45 to 55 on the speedometer. Most of our driving is done on state and county highways and roads. These have a limit of 55. We usually travel at 60 indicated. With the windows down, vent open, at that speed its loud. Wind, tires, fan and engine. But it is just there. Doesn't sound stressed in third direct, a little quieter with the od engaged. But we are all used to driving around with windows up, ac on, and the engine just above idle at 60 / 65 in our modern cars. Makes the old ones seem loud in comparison. Hardly ever hear the fan on either of our daily drivers. I bet if you went down the road with the fan belt off, you would eliminate 40% of the noise at 50 to 60 mph and you would be less concerned about the sound from under the hood. I have seen very brief bursts to 75. Usually to get separation from knuckle drager gawking at the car and drifting toward you.

Can you post the you tube link?

My dad was going to take his 49 wayfarer to a shop in 1956 to have his FD welded. But the shop had a 54 Meadowbrook he worked a deal with them instead and ended up with the 54.

philatelists loup? Glass rather than plastic? My father used something similar when studying topographical maps, of which he had hundreds. He taught me how to read maps with it his had a small lanyard attached. Could also be for the guys who studied reconascince photos.

There should be a plugged fitting on each side of the axle housing near each backing plate. Unscrew the plug and thumb in some grease while turning the wheel. A lot of folks pull the plugs and add zerk fittings. Don't do it. Even little piston type hand pump will overpower the seal, letting grease onto the backing plate and making a path for gear lube to follow.

Last one I replaced about three years ago came from NAPA. it's been working fine. Alot of motor cycles and ATVs still use them. If you went to a bike shop, they might carry several different ones with varied connectors, and connectors to match. I was going to a Harley shop, but didn't think the orange and black box was worth the extra 10 bucks.

Make sure you get the solenoid. When I got mine, I found two both condition unknown, and did a two to make one deal. Assumed that work was needed. Member Mark Duggan did a rebuild on the one in his p15 shoot him a private message, he can tell you how and what to look for. He found all his parts on line. Most 9f 5he faults are electrical. Although there can be issues with internals, the usually are wear rather than damage. In the downloads area of this site are several documents for the maint and operation of the OD as well as a couple different wiring schematis do operation with and or without kick down circuits. There is also an older gent in western PA who does rebuilds. He just turned 90 I think so I don't know how active he still is, but he did the work on mine to combine the two and put in fresh seal for 600 bucks but that was 3 or 4 years back. If you don't want to tackle it yourself, you might want to give him a call. His name is George Ashe. I have his phone number for if and or when you decide to go that way. But a good assessment of what you are looking at should be done before you choose your path.

Been getting 5 to 7 years from standard lead acid group 1 6 volts. Gotten some from exide, some from interstate. They are both in the 725 to 750 Cold cranking range. Most of the black case ones are made by either Exide or deka or something like that regardless of the brand stickers, don't know who makes interstates. 50 bucks is a pretty good price these days. Last one I got last fall from Battery Warehouse 79.00 1 year free replacement, plus 2 additional prorated replacement cost. The one it replaced was purchased in 2015. The exide place was a distributer warehouse. Usually the have seconds or out of date new ones. These are units that get pulled from retail stores after 6 months. They brought those back and sold them with a 1 year prorated warranty. They sold for 40% off full warehouse pricing. I grabbed those when available usually got 5 years ago before they needed replacement. Guess we are lucky to have these two facilities in the area.

Our last dog could tell when I went in the garage and started the Plymouth she was at the door barking to go. She didn't want to miss a chance to go to a cruise in or take a trek in the old car. The dog previous to her was a Bernise Mt. Dog mix. He was a victim of a divorce also. He would insert himself between us if we got into a spirited conversation. He was a truckers dog and apparently a veteran of road trips. He provided excellent vehicle protective service for what ever car or truck he was in. Good luck with Buster. Hope he melds with your people pack and their activities positively

http://www.rdusaclassics.com/p15-picnic-usa.html?fbclid=IwAR3n0gq3fKYElkwHvVKl2b2weowdwv4b2UjGXw0JPbpd49ACUWFO8aV50OA

Current 2022P15Picnic information. Save the dates.

Maybe it's really expensive for a private business to get to use a manufacturer's trademarked name in your company name...

That's a direct copy of one a forum member made on his bench and posted here several years ago. 3 nuts, a piece of threaded rod and a bit of welding. You could also drill and tap the spindle nut to accept the threaded rod if you can't weld. Maybe 3 bucks worth of hardware, a piece of scrap and 15 minutes of assembly time. Vendors over head and labor rates must really be something. But I guess rents on Long Island can be quite high.

A simple circuit probe with a light can be your friend here, as can a jumper wire that allows you to bypass suspect portions of circuits by powering the loads directly from the battery to see if bulbs , horns, accessories work independent of their switches, fuses, circuit breakers, relays, and wire harness. Problem could have a bit of corrosion preventing good connections. The dimmer switch is an example where infrequent use causes resistance from power to load. Cycle both headlamp and dimmer switches quickly for several cycles works in many cases to restore performance of the circuits.

Airtex have a problem with pump lever pivot pins walking out. If you decide to use on of theirs, assure the pin is secured from backing out. They just press the pin in relying on an interference fit. It is not reliable. The pin needs to be staked, or restrainedwith jb weld or similar, or replaced with a pin with a head and clip.

When honda came out with the second edition of the CRV they used a very similar type of driveshaft joints. But in this application the rear end was an independent system in which the differential carrier was bolted to the rear sub frame. The result of which was a drive shaft that never changed angle, nor slid along the travel provided by the splines. This meant the ball portion of their joints never moved along the length provided for in the trunion, the result was both joints wore in the same spots, which over 30k miles meant that they wore those two 0laces out of tolerance causing vibrations from one or both transferring through the carrier into the sub frame. Honda did not sell parts to repair them so a new drive shaft with both joints had to be purchased to correct the problem. If your car is always driven with the same load over smooth roads, this same condition can occur in the ball and trunion joints. If you have the B&T joints on both ends, some times swapping the drive shaft end for end will move the balls within the trunion enough to move them out of the worn spots in the trunion. You can test this situation by putting 300 or so pounds, a couple hefty friends, 4 or 5 bags of Sackett and a full gas tank in the car should move the suspension enough to move the balls to a different position within the trunion. A short drive should then indicate if the vibration changes frequency, or speed of onset. If it does, your trunions are probably out of spec when the drive line is in its "normal" home position. The Honda friveshaft was about 650.00 installed, so if you can get a modern one made up with Spicer style joints on both ends for 300 or so, seems like a good deal.

I believe the two with the shorter friction material go in front of the front axles. This memory is over nearly 20 years old and may not be reliable