greg g

Went through that routine before checking the fuse. Cycled all the switches a dozen times or so. Going to start the trouble shooting by assuring there is continuity through the fuse, that the fuse is properly inserted and that there is power to the switch.

Don't think the dimmer switch being corroded would effect the dash lights and tail and tag lamps.

So today we did a tour run with 6 other cars. When it started getting dark I pulled on the parking lights, running them with my fog lamps. When it got darker about 15 minutes till sunset, I pulled on the headlamps. As it got darker, noticed no instrument lights, no high beam indicater. Checked the fuse in the light switch and it looks good. Cleaned the contacts, reinsert and nothing. Had a guy under the dash, installing a new speedo cable. Wonder if he tugged some wires while doing what he did. No time or energy to check tonight. Tomorrow guess, I will be under the dash looking around with jumper wire and circuit probe. If I recall the switch gets power from the Amp gauge direct to the switch. If I power from the battery with a jumper wire can I bypass the fuse to power the switch to do my checks for power in and power out? Also is there supposed to be a spring in the fuse holder.

When you do the vacuum gauge setting, it is accounting for variables when you do the test. Air temp. Fuel quality, humidity, engine condition. Use the fuel you no r mally use.

You need to go out and do some brisk acceleration and pull a couple grades. Typically there might be some pinging under load. Leave the dist snugged but not tight so you can make road side adjustments. Usually need to retard it a couple degrees from high vacuum setting to find the no ping setting. Then tighten it down. When back in the shop, adjust idle rpm to 450 to 500.

The difference between a 12.00 per hour weld and a 32.00 per hour weld. Based on your pics you are in the 20.00 neighbor hood. I am solidly anchored in the less than 10.00 range with my 110 v wire welder. https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&q=%2418+weld+vs+%2428+weld&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8z56Ku8jzAhV8SDABHfXkBi4Q1QJ6BAggEAE&biw=1334&bih=800&dpr=1.5#imgrc=7u7DwSM2Y7VsrM

I used vacuum gauge, confirmed with timing light setting at 5 degrees before TDC. But I have milled my head for increased compression. CR. 8.6 was 7.1 if I remember right. My engine is a 56 230.

Fun with new toy! Making good progress toward completion.

Doing a 200 plus mile jaunt tomorrow. Ticking usually means loose clearances. Loose is better than too tight. Tight gets tighter when things expand with heat, thereby keeping the valve from fully seating when closed.. this can lead to hot spots and burning valve or seat if it continues for a while. Loose just means the valve isn't opening as long and as high as specified.. this might have a slight effect on fuel air volume going to the cylinder, but wouldn't be noticeable unless they were all very loose. Have you done a recent compression gauge check or run a vacuum gauge check? Are you sure your ticking isn't a slight exhaust leak that gets lost in other mechanical noises at higher rpm?

We just did about 500 miles on the P15 Picnic Tour, as did 9 or so other old Mopar flatheads. The only issue amongst the group was a failure to charge situation that was rectified by a close by shop. I have a travel kit in the trunk that consists of AAA card Tow strap Fire extinguisher An extra distributor Upper and lower radiator hose Spare fan belt Set of generator brushes Two fuel filters with clamps A three foot length of non metallic fuel hose head gasket Ground cloth, gloves, handy wipes, roll of paper shop towels Roll of duct tape, and electrical tape The 30 Amp headlight switch fuse Several 6 ft lengths of various gauge insulated wire Small toolbox with assorted hand tools Get out there and drive that thing.

My Studebaker truck is engaged in spirited activity till the end of the month. I moved it out of the garage to create some work space for late fall and winter projects. When I went to collect it seems to be inhabited by some folks from the past. Previous owners perhaps. Whomever they are, they are keeping very quiet about their intentions. When I started up after there was a slight knocking under the hood. It may have been the fellow in the bed upset about having he boo tisleep interrupted. I think I might need a gallon of Visine also. Wonder if anyone still stocks the original 1956 formula? Wouldn't want to cause a problem using the incorrectly graded fluid.

Take a look at your plumbing for the oil filter. May feed line was cracked under the flange nut. Made a mess of left side of the engine and firewall.

2 door sedans are the least or second least produced body style. Hope you keep that in mind when you do your daydreaming.

Just reviewed the info for Chrysler engines shortest stroke mentioned is late 20s 4 cylinder at 4 1/8. Inches. So you probably not dealing with a stock crankshaft. Lookng at other brands of flathead engines also doesn't reveal an under 4 inch stroke. Jeep, Willis and Oldsmobile showed 6 cylinder engines with 3 1/2, and 3 7/8 those are the only under 4 inch shown in that specs listing pages linked. Something hinckey going on there. http://carnut.com/specs/index.html

Careful handling that stuff, it basically lead pudding. Gloves and goggles highly recommended. The side covers tend to get overtightened and warped by overzealous folks chasing leaks. The reason there are thumb screws there is they are only supposed to be hand tight. The reason most of them leak is because when the galleys are sludged up the oil doesn't drain as it should and likely flows out around the thumb screws. You might do some drift and dolly work to assure the covers fit as best they can when reinstalled.

Just called ORiellys, the will have it in my local store for pickup tomorrow AM for apx 9 bucks. They crossover to a Pioneer branded piece which exchanges to the ATP Y804.

How did you measure the stroke?

Thanks!

On a drive on Sunday, my speedometer quit working. As the odo was not advancing my conclusion is the cable has broken. Conventional knowledge suggested I would need a longer cable when I installed my 1954 OD trans. The one in the car fit and worked for 3 years. I have looked at replacements from folks on e Bay and have noticed three lengths listed. I am thinking the one for a 48 Dodge might be a bit longer than the Plymouth one due to the deeper bell housing due to fluid drive. Does anyone know the three lengths, I believe they are 57, 59 1/2, and 62. Thinking 59.5 would work, maybe provide a little wiggle room, but not be overly long. Anybody have any experience with the various lengths? I am aware that extenders are available but that seems to add a couple additional failure points to the assembly.

You might also make contact with one of our British members who take their slightly modified street cars ,all P15s I believe over to Wales and run the beach there with their vintage speed group. I think one owns the record with his 2dr sedan. There is content within this forum covering their participation several years back. Search word Penndine Sands. They do a measures mile with a half mile run up to the timed mile. Running on the beach at low tide. I I remember they were in the high 70s low 80s with their street legal unmodified body's and interiors. 218 and 230 for engines.

Based on the username, it suggests this will be for drag racing. You can make a lot of changes, spend a lot of money and maybe if the stars align, the temperature, humidity, barometric pressure are perfect,, karma kicks in and you cut a perfect reaction time, you might run a 19 second quarter, at 62.2 mph. If this is worth the time and trouble, and money, and meets your idea of fun, rock on. Had a friend in high-school, bought a 63 Chevy II , it had a 194, cu in 6 made120 hp. He won his class N/stock, and finished 2nd in stock eliminator for the season. His best time was an 18.7 at 63 mph. He won most of his races cuz guys in faster cars red-lightd, seeing him half way down the track and their side of the Christmas tree still ticking down at them. Was it fun, maybe, we had some good laughs at the guys with the 400 plus engines complaining about his starting advantage. But those were the rules back then.

There are two battery warehouses here in town. One evidence, one Interstate. I have been buying lead acid group 1 batteries from the Exide place. They sell seconds which have cosmetic damage to the outside of the battery. Scratches to the case, or the label or they are 6 months old and marked as a second. They come with a 1 year full replacement warranty, then are pro rated for 3 additional years.. The one I replaced last September was 7 years old. The receipt was in the glove box for 54 dollars. The replacement was 76.00 as it was not a second. It has a 1 year free rlacement and 5 years pro rated deal. Take a look for a warehouse in your area. I believe they are 550 cca rated. Why pay full retail if you can locate alternatives?

There should be a taped and plugged hole in the intake manifold. Intake vacuum is what you want to check.

Just to be safe you shouldn't engage reverse when the cable control is in the overdrive enabled position. Mine does not seem to have the loch out working. So I always pull out the cable while waiting for the garage door to open. Or when anticipating a situation that will require reverse.

About 30% is directed through the filter.