greg g

It is what it is. A Meadowbrook sedan. Can't tell from the pic if it is 2door or 4 door. Meadowbrook was the entry level trim for 53. It's engineering code was D 46 or d47 depending on wheelbase. 119 inch being the d47. The higher trimed and furnished model was the Coronet. There might have been an upgraded Coronet called the Royal, but that may have been a 54 or 55 package. Your car is likely a 230 with fluid drive and a three speed manual transmission, a dry clutch three speed was also available, but I think most were built with fluid drive. Threespeed with overdrive was also optional.The other transmission would have been the gyromatic semi automatic. If it is gyromatic it would have a badge on the dash, trunk lid or rear bumper. https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/brochures_1953_dodge

Desoto uses the engine with the 25 inch head. The ujoints are ball and trunion with needle rollers in the balls under the leather gaiters. They, can be cleaned and greased as necessary. Be careful handling the leather. Rubber replacements are available but can be a pain to install.You mentioned lots of grease zerks. You will also find them on the clutch,and brake pedal bushings and linkage and sometimes on the water pump. In the absence of waterpump grease, folks are using outboard motor lower unit lube or wheel bearing grease used on boat trailer bearings. There is also a short cut for popping tapered axle to hub joint. Back off the nut about 2 turns, put the cotter key back in.go for a drive alternating sharp left and right turns. It will give you audible notification when it pops loose. Return slowly to the shop and proceed with disassembly and repair. Probably might not work in the situation you described, but this was commonpractice for the flat rate guys at the dealership I worked at in high-school. Lot quicker than messing with the puller and no buggered threads. Enjoyed peaking at the under side.

So do you use an ottoman, hassock, or foot stool when pairing with your chesterfield? Is a tuffet a female ottoman. And what goes with a fainting couch. Does a tuxedo sofa have tails? And do tell about your new divan?

Small slide hammer, air chisel?

SAVE THE DATES ANNOUNCMENT FOR 2022! Sept 15 through 18 P15 Picnic USA planning is under way. 2022 will headquarter in the MANCHESTER NEW HAMPSHIRE area. We will gather and explore the area. This year will be a Surf and Turf event. Arrive on Thursday for a bit of local poking around,, then there will be a Mountain tour on Friday and a shore loop on Saturday. With scenery and attractions to explore offered by the great features that make NH a beautiful place to visit. We will be doing a Diners, Drive In, and Drives format so pack your poodle shirts, cheenos, and penny loafers, or saddle shoes and come along. Also think of your favorite hot rod themed movie and submit your suggestions for Friday's afterdark special activity. My vote is for Thunder Road, others may have better suggestions. As always all vintage mopars and orphan cars and trucks are welcomed to join in. Hopefully the border will return to normal and our friends from Up Noth will join us again. Mark your calender and we will See you in September. Stay tuned for more details as they solidify. Contact Mark Duggan to be included on the 2022 email list. Link to pics od previous Picnics. http://www.rdusaclassics.com/p15-picnic-usa.html?fbclid=IwAR3n0gq3fKYElkwHvVKl2b2weowdwv4b2UjGXw0JPbpd49ACUWFO8aV50OA

Need another? https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1960/rambler/american/101603078 Three is also one in Mich with a dual carb aluminum head.

You aren't welding galvanized are you? Fumes can be problem real quick. https://www.cmac.com.au/blog/5-things-to-welding-galvanized-steel-safely

Suppose you could dremal it off if it's replaceable. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-hose-locking-clip/p/brakeware-brake-hose-lock-h1457a/709338_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BLH:8362369872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4q71vf7m8wIVRIpaBR1U0QC1EAQYASABEgIjIvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Watched your Lexus 400 vid today. Saw the right rear c pillar of he 54 in the background. Looks like it's getting ready for its close up. Saw the one on the Oldsmobile. Waiting to see what you discover on the Plymouth. Please include the engine number in your walk around. It is stamped into the block above the first freeze plug drivers side, It is also usually repeated on the drivers side frame on the arch above the rear axle. Should start with P25. Engine swaps were pretty common to keep these year mopars on the road, as it is a fairly easy and quick swap. Your numbers might or might not agree. You will probably need the wire wheel to find it on the frame.

Found a listing for a 1989 Gran Fury Sport Suburban. Looks like a station wagon to me.

Does your book call out the other makes, and years for those numbers? That might be some good information to have in the downloads area.

Nice looking long roof.

Thanks for the update. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Sol goes to the starter solenoid and should only be hot when the switch is turned fully clockwise. The rad could be radio and other accessories you would want available driving down the road. Like radio, heater fan, windshield wipers if electric. This should be the first position clockwise one where the key returns to when the starter is released. The COMMON might be labeled this way and might Also power things like horn, signals revers lamps, fog lights. So you can bench test the switch and determine which terminals are hot in each position assuming batt and Amm are Usually power in either from the battery, battery common terminal the large battery side of the solenoid,, or ammeter. Then there are things you want powered regardless of key on or off like lights, interior lights, stop lights and horn. Some switches also have one counter clockwise position from off which is usually labeled acc. So radio and auxiliary lights could be powered from there to assure they are off when the key is in your pocket. Some modern switches have the acc terminal in the first clockwise rather than counter clock wise but a bench test would reveal that situation. If your car has a starter button, you probably want to have that powered from the first run position so the starter can't be engaged without the key in.

In the downloads area is an article from a 1950s magazine that details common changes, like adding dual intakes, exhaust, raising compression ratio, boring, porting, and a couple of other changes that were state of the art at the time. This article was submitted by member Mark Duggan, if you can't find it you might contact him to see if he has it as a pdf file he might e mail. There is also a chart for all flat head sixes illustrating the compression ratio changes that occur through planing or milling cylinder heads by various amounts. This presupposes the head is stock before machining it. Which unless we know the history of the car or engine and previous work done to it is guess work. This was submitted by Don Coatney. If you go through the engine specs, the factory understood the principles of hot rodding, other wise all our engines would have been 87 HP 201s but they knew how to make changes to go from 87 to 132 with basically the same engine with some souping up applied up to what the bean counters and day to day reliability would allow. We know the factory could have easily built 250 hp fire breathers but they wouldn't have been very good at commuting or getting groceries.

Measure the stroke, which is the difference in displacement. 4 3/8 vs 4 5/8. There is a pipe plug in the head above #6. A piece of wire placed into the hole will ride the piston through is travel. It's function is to assist in finding top dead center, but measuring the stroke is the bonus in the setup. Just make sure your wire is long enough as to not dissappear into the cylinder. While relaxed cruising and highway rpms can be arrived at by swapping gears or rear axles, the preferred method is to find and install a borg warner r10 over drive unit. These however are becoming scarce and expensive, they provide a 30% reduction in cruising revs without sacrificing around town, keep up with traffic scoot from the stop sign. Maybe with connections in the used parts market in your area one might pop up. If you find one get the relay and kick down switch setup. Lots of threads concerning OD using the search. My car has a 4.11 rear gear set, the OD drops the 3300 rpm at 60, down to 2400 and change.

The factory service b[k presuposes a basic level of mechanical familiarity and knowledge of toolls for procedures. If you don't have that basis, some of the procedures can seem daunting. Even finding all the fasteners the first time through can be a challenge. So yes removing the transmission without knowing you need to take off the shifter rods,, and linkage, the drive shaft, the e brake cable, the speedometer cable, the reversing lamp wire, the clutch fork rod and oh yes, the pesky bolt way up on the drivers side that you can barely see, can be an agitating prosess. Take pictures and clean everything up before you reach for the tools.

Had a situation with mine. The very small passage way in the center of the ear bud was plugged. Took it back and the tech shower how to change them and gave me two or 3 packs of replacement inserts If any one is thinking of getting hearings, my experience with Costco was positive. They are selling last years top technology at deeply cut pricing. Got mine 4 years ago, for about 3500 bucks. This after we paid 100 for a gold level membership. The gold level gave us 5 percent cash back on purchases. So the cash back on the aids paid for the membership. Their units are warranted for three years. You get three free follow up visits the first year and then 1 per year the next two years. The only problems I deal with are I have psoriasis in my ears which makes them uncomfortable to wear, and for some reason, I only get 2 days use on the batteries. If when I get new ones, will probably be looking at rechargeable styles. I hate blowing through and disposing of batteries that daily wearing entails. Shall we start a thread for joint replacement discussion? I am told I need a new shoulder...

U haul has been renting trailers since just after WWII. Give them a call or visit. If they don't go back far enough perhaps the have something similar like a 63 belvedere with slant six and manual trans. A friend had a 63 Dodge crew cab pickup that he towed his modified 4 cylinder dirt track race car around with. That with tires, tools, and fuel in the bed. It had a receiver style hitch welded to the step bumper. The tongue weight was such the both of us could lift it if necessary. It was a slant 6 automatic. Wouldn't get over 60 but always got him to and home from the track. If your car has collector or historic tags, you should check what motor vehicle laws and you insurance carrier for what coverage limits apply to your situation. I have been told but never enquired further that it's illegal to tow a trailer with a Historic registration in NY. Since it's illegal insurance won't cover the towed vehicle or any damage attributed to it or its contents. So if the trailer flips spilling full beer kegs which damage other vehicles or crash through someone's front door, you are on your own as far as paying damages, fines, and costs involved. It may be more complicated than will my car or truck pull it?

Was this a logging industry vehical? What kind of clutch differential, steering system was used? Hydraulic or mechanical? Pretty stout roll hoops there, protecting for falling stuff?

My hearing has gotten worse over the past three years. These days I don't wear my hearing aids, as they always seem to go flying of in opposite directions when I remove my mask, and in stores and other indoor spots, that's not a good situation considering what replacements would cost. So with out the aids, the tinnitus is worse. I not only have the whistles clicks and pops, I have frequency shifts, doppler effect stereo, and chain saw surround sound. Plus what's known as brain explosions, at night when every thing ambient goes quiet. The audiologist told me tinnitus is not actually sound. It's the brain filling in for receptors no longer stimulated because your ears have lost those frequencies in your ears. So with nothing coming in, the brain manufactures what missing in the form of the tinnitus symptoms. I was at the dentist the other day and part of their process is to put ear plugs in so you don't hear the tools. So I couldn't hear a word they were saying about what I needed to do to follow instructions. Not a good situation. Golden years my butt.

It was my impression that fluid drive was only behind 230 engines in 23,5 applications, as the weight of the unit requiring the 8 bolt and thicker crankshaft flange that was part of the 230 spec. Conventional knowledge was that 218 and fluid drive were mutually exclusive. I will admit here, I am not well versed in fluid drive or truck permutations so I may be singing from the wrong sheet here, but since I have been active on this forum it's been 230 mentioned with fd on the 23.5 inch engines. You didn't give your location but I have a P15 engine 218 looking to be removed. Located in Central NY.

Black smoke is from a too rich mixture. Float stuck, choke not opening, power valve not getting vacuum signal. Might want to pull the plugsto see what they look like and do a compression check while they are out. Pull the dipstick and see if your oil smell of gas.

You might want to swap in an inexpensive aftermarket gauge to check if your gauge is reading.

Just watched several of your videos. Will you you do a similar one on your Plymouth? Think you will be interested in what you find. Have you ascertained yet if it's a 217.8 0r 230. Mid 54 was the change over. You might want to look up head gasket issues for these engines series. Savoy was the mid level of the Hotel series. Plaza being the base and Belvedere being the fully blinged top of the line. Mechanically all very much the same, just different trim, finishes, and accessories.