Jerry Roberts

How about buying a thread gauge ?

The part that you need can be found at DCM , a reproduction part . Their on line catalog page number 24 , item number G-515 . $25 .

The numbers are painted on the speedometer lens . Does DCM sell the lens ? , someone does . The steel parts under the lens are solid colors if I remember correctly , probably a good re-paint project for most guys . The letters/numbers on the pre-war gauges are in etched groves and can be easily repainted and then cleaned up with a razor blade . Post war they are only painted ON the glass . Lenses are available , again from DCM ? They sell the face plates too ,or repaint your existing face plates . Putting the small dots on the face plates is a little tricky but I can supply more information on that if needed . I just looked at my old notes , prices may have increased ; DCM gauge lenses - $20 each . Speedometer face plate $25

See the post in this thread from 4-9-16 by Tod Fitch .

That pipe plug hole above number 6 piston is probably plugged with carbon . Is your throttle linkage not backing off all the way ? Some throttle linkage hung up a little bit ? If you disconnect the throttle linkage to try again , be sure that you have your throttle return spring hooked up so that your engine doesn't run wide open .

On my engine it is an oddball size . Perhaps 1 inch I.D. . It took my gooseneck to an auto parts store and the clerk was able to find a small hose that I cut to length .

From Dodge Pickups by Don Bunn ; " The wheels were cab color "

" Of course there is always the possibility that I THOUGHT I bled the right front caliper but didn't " So bleed it once more just to make sure .

Don't worry about it . It doesn't matter . Left like that from the factory .

Might or might not help ; You can get one of the square holes to rotate by pushing the latch a little bit .

Your new water pump has a sealed bearing , don't try to grease it . The hole that you see is a weep hole and when your new water pump wears out it will probably leak from that hole .

Some of the water pump mounting bolts go into the water jacket , I think that bolt is one of them .

When you remove the spark plugs the valves are underneath the opening . The valve covers will give some access too . Instead of spraying engine oil I would spray penetrating oil or Marvel Mystery Oil . Some guys have used a screwdriver to put some tension on the valve springs to pop the valve back down , but be careful that you don't do damage . I put a little MMO in my gas with each fill up .

Also I have taken apart several of the plates to grease the bearings ( I used wheel bearing grease ) and the two halves of the plates just snapped together .

The dual point conversion that I saw pictures of had the condenser mounted on the outside of the distributor . The late Don Coatney converted his distributor to dual points and you might be able to find his photos . He did have lots and lots of posts though .

Could some of the leaf springs have settled ?

The tie rod in my 1/2 ton was just soft steel . I put it in the vise and pulled it straight . That was about 19 years ago and no problems .

Perhaps you are mistaken . The outlet is on the front of the tank in the stock location . And the line drops down inside as mentioned .

There is a little wire in the distributor that has to move each time you use the throttle . It goes from one plate to another and is very flexable . At idle it could be OK but when you use the throttle , one of the plates moves and the wire moves too .

That correct spacer will eliminate the problem of having to hold individual washers in place while tightening the bolts . The center holds it .

See ebay number 353515152630

Try Rare Parts in Stockton , Ca . They make a lot of their own stuff .