Jerry Roberts

See ebay number This includes both tie rod ends . I didn't search any further . 293244760395

If it is a WF the right tie rod end is a 951306 and the left tie rod end is a 951307 .

The best method for a parts search would be to start with the original part numbers . The 1947 Dodge 1 1/2 ton truck models are WF , WFX , or WFM . There are different part numbers for the different tie rod ends . Which model do you have ?

The gland nut has a tapered seat inside for the ether bulb .

Yes .

I paid a welding shop to repair three areas on the fender for $155 . The fender is now at a detail shop for the final work including painting and the estimate for that is $350 . The detail shop was recommend by two neighbors who have had work done there . I received a new bumper and brackets and test fitted it up , took off the sharp edges and applied paint . DCM makes a real nice bumper .

I don't plan on making a claim for reimbursement for any work that I do myself . The insurance company wants me to find and chose my own repair service shops and send them a list of expenses broken down by parts or labor when completed . One of the bills that they will get is for $656 for a new bumper , bumper brackets , tail light brackets , & shipping . Because of the pandemic they don't even send out a person to take photos , I sent them photos of the damage and of the VIN plate .

It was drivable , I drove it home , now I have the fender pulled off along with the bumper and tail light . I banged out the big rear dent in the fender , just to see how it would come out . It looks fairly well there but I don't have the skills or tools to tackle much more and it needs welding in a couple of spots . I plan on bringing the fender to Dentoni's welding this afternoon . Of course it is covered by insurance . I ordered a new bumper , tail light brackets , etc . I don't want to order a fiberglass fender though . 48D , I appreciate the offer . A few days ago I drove the truck to a collision repair shop here in Stockton and the guy wanted $2,000 - $3,000 just to remove and repair the fender . I know that this should be the battle of the insurance company but I want to be involved . I think that I have a guy lined up to pound out the remaining dents after I have it welded .

Are you asking for a contact that might have parts for your roof rack ?

The nearby place where someone might have seen something is a Ships Store and dry docks for boat repair . I didn't think to go over and ask about witnesses , but when I reported the incident to the police department an hour later , I mentioned that to the cop , He was going to check out the area and I told him to look for the broken glass so he could find the exact spot . It must have made a lot of noise .

I have seen several times in the local Pick-and-Pull that the customers have pulled engines using seat belts from the cars for straps .

There is a campground for motorhomes nearby and the speed limit is 10 MPH in this area . I am wondering if it was hit by a motor home , something with a lot of bulk . It was parked in first gear and shoved 6 feet forward when hit , the grove box popped open and the contents flew on the seat and the floor . Lots of glass left on the street and some plastic from the culprit vehicle .

Someone hit my truck today while I was out for exercise . Hit and run , no note left behind . I do carry insurance for uninsured motorist .

BOTH of the battery cables need to be thicker for the 6 volt battery to turn the starter properly .

A tractor parts supply store will also have the thick 6 volt cables .

Get the slop out first .

So they don't ream the nylon ling pin bushings ? I like the nice solid brass bushings that do need to be reamed .

The link is for negative ground , 6 volt . but I think they have the 6 volt positive ground too .

Lets see if this link comes through ... https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_486/6-Volt-Alternators-Negative-Ground.htm

See if you can find any utube vidios on complete repair , knocking off all of the old plastic with a hammer and starting from scratch .

Did you look to see if you can just drill and tap new mounting holes in your existing bell housing ?

The 1941 Plymouth truck three speed had synchros in second and third gear , It is a direct swap in . I didn't know that the 1940 didn't have synchros too . The later 3 speeds up through 1947 have synchros but I can't remember which years exactly .

There is a special machine for this , they are getting scarce though . One member arced his shoes by putting self adhesive sandpaper in his drum and rubbing the shoe on the paper . You could check to see if your shoes match the curve of your drums by placing the shoe against the arc of the drum . You could get on the phone and call around to see if someone has the machine too .

There is an error someplace as a WD 15 is a 3/4 ton truck . Anyway there was write up on this forum about someone who installed a Volvo ( as Ed mentioned ) overdrive unit aft of his transmission on his truck . Perhaps it can be found with a search .

Looking in my Auto-Lite catalog for truck B1D 1948 ; The correct distributer is the IAO-4002-1 , without vacuum advance . Some of the larger trucks didn't have vacuum advance .