Jerry Roberts

I am not an expert on this but it might depend on which type of seal is in there right now . I don't think that they are all interchangeable .

My 41 has the same large gap front and rear . There is a rubber ' spacer ' available that helps the appearance a little . I just grabbed the rubber that goes under a trunk lid from the junkyard . The hood corners are also available from Bernbaums or Roberts . My hood also doesn't have room for a front rubber corner . My radiator had extremely sharp corners up top so I put rubber corners up there to keep from getting my hands or arms cut .

My rear end is from a 1987 or 1989 Dakota with 2.94 gears with the 5 on 4 1/2 pattern . I like it just fine . I had a new drive shaft made up . 218 engine . The width is fine . Changed the perches .

On a mopar parts number site the 133980 is listed for P50 Deluxe Cp , Spec Deluxe , 4 D , Cl C . left rear stone shield . The 1333979 isn't listed .

On some of these old mopars there is a flat spot on the dampers . The flat spot is used so there is room to get the belt on and off . Yours looks OK .

Some of the head bolts and some of the manifold bolts also go into the water jacket .

That one looks unusual . You might need to buy another whole heater . And I know that you already tried that once and it didn't work out . Look for one that doesn't show any green on the core and comes with a guarantee ?

Here are a few that I found using a google search for " universal heater cores " www.universalpartsinc.com/shopping/?ic=10552

Someone , sometime found a new replacement core by looking at parts books and comparing dimensions in an auto parts store . Perhaps a forum search will turn it up .

It is also common in areas of the country where they put salt on the roads to melt the snow and ice .

One problem that we often encounter is the firing order is correct but can be one terminal off on the distributor cap . The solution is moving each wire one position over .

There could be very many things wrong with a 1952 Cranbrook . Don't count on just replacing or rebuilding only the generator . Another main part of the charging system is the regulator . I would be very wary of trying to drive an unknown car of that age on a 40 mile trip .

Or a plastic squeeze ketchup bottle .

You should contact Charlie as he is pretty good about answering questions . I am using DOT3

Steve , Have you read Charlie's instructions ? If not , check his web site or you can probably find them with a google search . On my master cylinder diameter ; When I had my master cylinder sleeved , the guy who did the machine work sent a note that the bore was 1 1/4 inch . Also you could verify by checking the bore size for Raybestos master cylinder kit MK1 as I used that kit . My list also says that NAPA kit #1 is the correct item . In Charlie's instructions he mentions that sometimes you must ' stake ' the spindle so that the spacer fits tight . I don't have any complaints at all . There was a discussion on this forum about Charlie's various recommendations for securing the retaining nut and the cotter pin . Some people had strong feelings . I am OK with his methods .

Steve , It stops very well , I have locked up the brakes twice as there were dogs running loose in the street . One little dog was actually running towards me . Full brake pedal too . I don't have to stand on the pedal and obviously a power assist isn't needed . I did occasionally have to stand on the pedal with the original shoes , even though the shoes were new and making full contact . I always would wonder if something was going to break when applying so much force on the system with the original shoes . I don't know the bore size of my original master cylinder off hand . If my cylinder bore size is important to you , let me know and I will look it up in my records .

If there is a tractor parts supplier near you , they may have the 6 volt bulbs . There are still many old 6 volt tractors in use . ebay is good for 6 volt bulbs too .

If you do the above test , make sure that you ground the sender body .

Here is some good information on bolts and threads from Hot Rod magazine .

As the man said , it shields from road debris and mud .

It puts pressure on a screen door to close it after the door has been opened .

What I have found is that your supplied voltage may differ on the work bench compared to the voltage available under the hood of your car . So it may need further adjustment after installation .

" Are either of you guys using combination, proportioning, residual or metering valves of any kind to address bias? Also, were you able to mount your original 16 inch wheels without interference? " If you are going to use Charles kit he says that you can use your original rims if I remember correctly . Contrary to popular opinion , I am using the original master cylinder with the existing residual valve intact . I also bought the commonly used 2 and 6 pound residual valves and didn't need them , they have been sitting on my garage shelf for about 2 years .

I am driving a 1941 Plymouth truck with Rusty Hopes front disc kit and Dakota rear end . I am using the stock master cylinder and everything works fine with perfect pedal free travel . I have no experience with the other modifications that you have mentioned .

Or you can buy them on ebay . 8 for $7 . Item number 323816595164