Jerry Roberts

Dodge , Plymouth , Chrysler , De Soto .

I dab a bit of clear silicone adhesive in three places around the edge of my hub caps , I haven't lost one in several years now that I use this method .

They sell electrical box cover plates for the homeowner at the hardware store . They measure about 4" x 4" and are nice heavy steel . For making your own .

There have been several posts on coil failures on these car / truck forums but my coil failure was a little different so I will explain for the next guy . Others have had their coils heat up and that prevented their vehicles from restarting until the coil was cooled down . On my vehicle the engine would sputter after things warmed up and the engine was pulling hard as in climbing up hill . The engine ran fine when it had only a light load . I suspected the more normal ignition problems , points , cap , condenser , rotor , plug wires , timing , plugs and carb adjustment and vacuum advance . After looking at all of those possible problems I realized that it was probably the coil as It happened after warm up . I replaced the coil and all is well again . Afterwards I remembered a faint occasional oder when driving of a hot electrical smell . When I was having problems I didn't think to touch the coil to see if it was too hot , but it must have been .

If you are restoring to like new or perfect condition , then buy a new harness . If you are not so fussy and have a daily driver , replace one wire at a time and save a lot of money .

Some people just replace the flywheel ring gear . Instructions will probably be in your new Motors manual . To put on the ring gear , the gear is heated and dropped in place . as it cools , it gets tight .

" He said the part number for this part is Autolite Armature MZ-2108. Is that correct? " Yes , those numbers are correct .

Her are photos of the Auto Lite points with the separate spring . It is not so obvious with the parts just out of the box as to how they go together but with the photo it is plain to see .

Sometimes the lid gets bent down in the center from use over the years . The clamping bolt then runs out of threads before the lid gets tight . The solution is to pound out the lid in the center .

I use tweezers , it's a delicate job .

I would call the rebuilder and see if they have any ideas . I guess that you must have tried adjusting where the pedal arm attaches to the shaft .

Click on his name ; Skrambler on his post . Just below what then shows is " message "

So the howling is probably not from low gear oil .

" ... I turned to distributor cap around to 180 degrees from where it was ... " These distributor caps fit on only one way . If you want to turn your distributor 180 degrees you must pull the distributor from the block and turn the shaft , and then put it back in the block . Edited 1 hour ago by TylerB46

I just bought a pair of pedal shaft seals from DCM Classics and they are nice thick rubber . To stretch them over my non-removable pedals I warmed them up in the weather and coated them inside and outside with plumbers grease , the grease that is used for o-rings . I also greased the pedal itself , top and bottom , and made sure that there were no sharp edges on the pedal to tear the rubber . I had to use a putty knife to help slide the first one over the pedal , it provided some leverage and the putty knife was also without sharp edges . The second seal I was able to put on without the putty knife for some reason . I half expected the seals to tear during this struggle but they went on O K . At some point during assembly the seals were at least partially inside out so greasing both the inside and the outside is necessary .

Good place to shop and they just keep expanding their stock . I am a happy customer .

Duffy , Here is where I got my information : Also I used the site ; PartsVoice to search by part number . You might find a booklet like this on ebay .

Duffy , The correct part number for the 1941 WF-32 column jacket bushing is 395800 . For trucks up to serial number 81365033 Detroit built or 86501901 L.A. built . That part is also shown at Collectors Auto Supply and also at Deception Pass Motor Parts , Anacortes , Wa . 98221

My book says for 1941 WF-32 ; Drag link ; tube part number 574501 , ball stud 51354 . Available at Collectors Auto Supply , Blaine Wa . 98230 . Verify with them .

Sometimes you can take a bearing to a shop that specializes in bearings and have them match it up with a replacement . There is such a shop where I live . Rare Parts in Stockton California might be able to help with the drag link , they can be expensive though . Have you tried the usual sources ? Roberts Motor Parts , Bernbaum Auto Parts , Vintage Power Wagons . Do you have a parts book that shows the part number ?

Looks great but I wonder if that bracket is heavy enough . The bracket on my ( older ) truck is 1/8 th inch steel . If you drive over a bump in the road with a full tank , it looks like it might bend . I could be wrong though , what do others say ?

See ebay item number 273009564468 . This might be what you are looking for .

I used this same method . Only I used a VERY thin flexible solid wire .

Two is correct , one on each side of the vehicle . Try turning your steering wheel as far as it will go each way and look at where the stop must go . Do you have a manual with pictures of this part installed ?