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Tooljunkie

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Everything posted by Tooljunkie

  1. Tooljunkie
    I wired in my front lights, adding relays. they come on with key, and blink off with signal activated. Interesting thing is the opposite light goes off when braking. Its an old signal-stat switch that only controlled rear lights.
  2. Tooljunkie
    Possible to drill and wire lock it? Like aircraft hardware? Just throwing it out there. The redneck in me says a tack weld will do…
  3. Tooljunkie
    Sorry to hear that. If its a rod bearing, sometimes pulling a plug wire will make the ticking change. I would consider removing clutch cover and check for noise as well. How’s oil pressure? Stethescope on timing cover, really loose chain? Exhaust leak is another. Good luck! I hope its not serious,parts arent readily avaiable in canada.
  4. Tooljunkie
    My lift is a backyard buddy, theres a truss kit for seperating body from chassis. or raise hoist, drive car under it then lower hoist to almost touch body.strap body to deck and raise hoist. Havent had the chance to do a body off job yet, but have done this with boats to repair trailers.
  5. Tooljunkie
    A few guys used the portawalls. But seems they are using paint now. Theres a few youtube videos about painted whitewalls.
  6. Tooljunkie
    Typically with e-brake calipers the pins are present. Im assuming to prevent pistons from turning.3/16 to 1/4 diameter,1/8” tall off backing plate. Bumps might have been a better term.
  7. Tooljunkie
    Common issue with the banjo bolt, thin washer is one concern. I often reuse the old ones. Annealing works. Make sure the sealing surface is clean, a piece of grit csn cause a leak too. I tighten/loosen bolt two or three times going a little tighter each time, and i often use a wrench. It is imperative there is zero fluid leaks. also with those calipers, notches on pistons must align with pins on brake pads, and cycle e-brake to wind piston out to take up slack between rotor and pads. Failing to do this will result in a low pedal. I have serviced quite a few of theses types of brakes.
  8. Tooljunkie
    Also check the wire inside distributor, mechanical and vacuum advance are all in at high rpms, points wire could be broken or shorting. Been there. Could be the ground wire too.
  9. Tooljunkie
    If its cast aluminum, cast iron or steel, bolt it in and dont overthink it. I just think of all the “fast guys” that bolt their battery in the trunk and dont have any measureable power loss. The size of the ground is more important than where on the motor or transmission you bolt it.
  10. Tooljunkie
    Thats what convinced me to do the swap. #6 has low compression,and its for sure rings. Waiting for rebuild parts, and maybe having to sleeve it wasnt in the cards. 3 weeks of downtime and i couldnt be happier with my 360. That being said, a small block chevy would have been less trouble to graft in.
  11. Tooljunkie
    I agree, wire for resistor bypass.
  12. Tooljunkie
    I had a gianormous wall mirror, saw a convex at the swap meet and grabbed it. Glad i did. I would like a bigger one.
  13. Tooljunkie
    I used a 10 circuit fuse block. Not enough fuses in my opinion.. 12 maybe. i used fuse links for the charge circuit as they will take loads better than a fuse. Could use a 70’s dodge truck as a reference guide.
  14. Tooljunkie
    If i recall, this is the type of fitting used. On engine side is inverted flare like brake lines use. For flex hose replacement you may want to consider a grease gun hose. Pressure isnt an issue as most are good for 10,000 psi. Easy to adapt as they are 1/8 npt.
  15. Tooljunkie
    Thats why i like to remove distributor, service it and bench test before i put it back in. First round with putting in new contacts it would stall as rpms rose. I realized right away, pulled dist and repaired shorting wire as vacuum pulled advance plate.
  16. Tooljunkie
    Might be difficult, but a dimple may be the answer here. But how to achieve it would take some experimenting. The dimple is less likely to deform when pushing it on to terminal.
  17. Tooljunkie
    Good looking dog! I think you got the better end of the divorce.
  18. Tooljunkie
    I would clean and braze or solder it.
  19. Tooljunkie
    A youtuber recently installed a lawnmower carburetor on his ford 302. And engineered a metered vacuum leak controlled digitally to keep the air/fuel ratio at optimum mixture. 70 mph and was getting 40 ish mpg. thunderhead289 is his handle if you want to check it out. there was a vortex type block available for later model vehicles,cant see how it worked but people bought them.
  20. Tooljunkie
    Something to look forward to. A tough decision, but if its less stress its worth it.
  21. Tooljunkie
    No photos. Rad fan switch install was a win fail win. Found a 3/8 “ plug the switch would go into, didnt discover it was shallow until i broke the nub on the switch. Switch was a snap disc so i threaded it and loctited a screw in. Used an adapter to gain length and switch is in. Then attempt seat belt install, wife has been asking for one. So i obliged. Seats are from a pt cruiser, as are the belts. 3 pieces of flat stock, some bracing and i think i have a good solid mount.
  22. Tooljunkie
    I have a long to-do list, but wife’s to-do’s may quelch my plans for the day.
  23. Tooljunkie
    Forgot about diminished capacity of an ev in 0f or colder temps. Also a well used battery also has lost capacity. And how far down the road did vehicle get before being unable to travel further.
  24. Tooljunkie
    There was a big issue with people stranded in a winter storm. All the ev’s were dead. Easy to bring a couple gallons to keep heat running, not so much with the pixie burners
  25. Tooljunkie
    My 51 fargo has plugs as well. My cab is sealed up really well. When i had cab off and laying on its back, i worked dilligently at sealing the holes. battery cover was another access point, which i sealed as well. i hate meeces to pieces! more like a phobia…
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