Tooljunkie

I used a rubber expanding one, because i was stuck. Think i have to backorder a box of 25 to get one. the plug has to fit the shoulder below the existing plug or it pops out when you snug it up. Its holding fine with my 4 lb rad cap. it was $7.50, cheaper than a box of 25,and i would still be waiting for it.

Theres a collar up top below shift lever, looks to be 2 pieces, it moves up/down in the housing. If i raise rod while moving shifter i can find reverse, but it takes both hands. thinking i should fix cab bushings before making adjustments,so i dont have to repeat the process.

First fargo i saw had the visor,thought it was cool. so when i bought mine,i have been toying with the idea of building one. seems easier to buy one. If Fargo52 still has one and willing to sell, i would be up for a drive.. if i end up building one, i will post up details.

So i got my clutch adjusted to where i’m happy with it, now on to shifter. Im having difficulty getting it into first or reverse. I have had 3 speed column shift trucks before, but im a little befuddled with this setup. any info would be appreciated. thanks in advance Frank

That is a good melling part number, looks similar to the one in my 49 218. i googled it and rock auto shows it.

Washes oil off cylinder walls. It has no lubricant. I have used ether to wash oil off of a part,leaves it bone dry. a squirt bottle of gas with a little 2 cycle oil is my go to for stubborn starting engines. the small bottle that friction modifier comes in is handy. Flip top to close off. And can slide clear tubing over the tip for hard to reach places, to fill a bowl for example.

Sounds like fuel issue. key off, remove air cleaner and watch inside carb as you cycle throttle linkage, likely its gummed up as mentioned. Will need to be removed and cleaned. there is no magic spray to solve this. My opinion, but starting fluid Is not the best thing for gas engines..

Got it done, when i started the one rearward bolt had clearance, and pedal was a little floppy. Now that both bolts are snug, pedal feels better. No side to side like it was before. Adjusted column a little so its not dragging in the guides, it feels better to shift. now i just need to sort out the brakes so i can putt it around.

Great topic! i just dropped my fuel tank, its junk. so i grabbed the plastic tank out of a mid 70’s dodge full size pickup. i will move the front tank mount back and re shape it to fit top of tank. Filler ends up just behind rear mount. under box floor. its not as deep as original, but longer. Easy modification, and as i think about it, its possible the filler neck could be moved, its screwed to tank. I may consider it. as far as other tanks, gm pickup tanks 87 to 96 used a low pressure pump 14 psi if i recall. Tbi equipped. dodge ram up to 93 were also tbi,also low pressure pumps. 94 and up using magnum engines ran at 70 +/- psi. When the returnless system went bad the pressure can reach 175 psi. Regulator was replaceable as its external on top of tank, but its been 20 or so years since i replaced one. i started in the garage business in the 90’s so this sort of thing is right in my wheelhouse.

To add, i dont think there should be any clearance between clutch Pedal arm and set screws on the collar. I will check it today and verify. it was loose when i started, so i left the clearance.

Thanks, that really helps. my clutch Was not engaging until pedal was near the top,so i disassembled the collar and freed everything up. Now i wasnt sure i had adjustment correct. I may pull cover and make sure its got free play at release bearing. thanks for the help!

Hello everybody, i tried searching choosing my words in different was but didint come up with the info i needed. My 49 fargo, adjusting the clutch. its a round shaft with a keyway and a bracket with adjuster bolts pointing fore and aft. I figured i could adjust for a little free play, but it seems now i have a noise. im guessing too much Play now. Need the setup procedure,would like it right. Now with complete exhaust and pcv adapted to the 318 2bbl carb/automatic choke it purrs like a kitten.

Funny you dont like the seats. I happened to have a pair and set them in my 49. I find them quite comfortable. I did build an entire new base and plan on connecting the heaters, mostly for my wife, she likes heated seats on cool days. And i like the drivers seat that power raise/lower. the original was just too ratty to deal with. do like the stance, engine looks great in there.

To each his own i would say. Taking the most challenging would be the way to go,thinking outside the box will impress some people. myself, i wouldnt consider damaging a rare manifold. the later dodge 2bbl idea intrigues me. My carb may need a kit and a float, and i have a few 2 bbl carbs kicking around.

I would try them, im going for a similar look, aluminum turbines. They all crusty, all im doing is polishing the raised part of the fins.

So, sorted out leaks, converted to 12 volt mopar alternator and now i can drive it into shop to work on it. what amazes me is every bolt i touch comes out Without a fight. Every single one. a friend’s uncle was admiring truck,says he has some parts for me. Come pick them up. turns out they are nos from a dealer that ran in my town in the 40’s and 50’s. cant wait to see what he has.

Mine was like this too,clean out the ports behind the mixture screw.

Anything is possible. Just depends on skill level and tools. I cant imagine its a bolt in. My plan is to swap in a mid 70’s full size pickup rear end. Leaf spring saddles will have to be relocated and something will need to be done with driveshaft. A good friend is a machinist, so driveshaft modification wont be the hard part. same thing goes for a dakota rear end. When i get to it, i guess i should document my process.

Did it ever start? My 49 hasnt run in 40 plus years. Compression on highest cylinder was 65 psi. I cleaned points and carb, added fresh gas and it fired up, ran rough and got better as it warned up. Now it starts without much effort. i should check compression again now that it has been running a while.

So,a follow up,unsiezed,unstuck valves and cleaned carb. Tested points for open/close. Plugs out and cranked it. Great spark. i did get a reman starter, my original had bad field coils. poured some gas in carb and it made a few bangs. tried and tried. Just a few pops. so turned distributor and opened the idle mixture a couple turns and it fired off! patched in a rad and fired it again. ran it for 30 minutes. Debris in block plugged rad,frost plug leaking and water pump is pouring coolant. Im excited!! so i wired the ign switch,and started it,and tried clutch. It felt fine so put it in reverse. I backed it out of shop, and into storage. Next round is sort cooling system and build alternator brackets.

Had it running,30 minutes. To me it sound no worse than any others i listened to on youtube. one frost plug leaks, oil filter isnt sealing and at the 30 minute mark the water pump seal let go. new pump coming from Rockauto. a week and i can replace pump. will see if i can locate a freeze plug kit, replace as necessary.

Brought it in on a rainy day. Figure this is how i want it to look. Pretty much how i found it. I unsiezed it that day, unstuck the valves and resumed working on it yesterday, 2 weeks later. checked for spark,it has after cleaning the points. cleaned carb and put some gas in the bowl. It fires and runs for a few seconds,not bad for sitting since the 70's. so onto rad and hoses, a belt and try to keep it running for a few minutes. I used a slant 6 rad,it should be enough for this part. 12 volt conversion coming up,and time to start hunting for parts. Grille is gone, front engine isolator is broken, bumper is shredded.

Hole in cylinder head,with a pipe plug on top,whats it for? above #6 cylinder.

I bought the one outside. Guess i should get a photo of the vin plate and run the numbers,as i was told its a ‘49. i maybe should have started a discussion about the one in the garage,but was thinking i had enough on my plate.

Hello, just joined. i bought a 1949 fargo,been sitting for a very long time,plate on truck is from late 60’s. Solid,but seized. Looking forward to learning more about my truck from you all on the forum. Frank