Sniper

Years ago my son-in-law called me to come look at his GMC pickup. he thought he had a rod knock. this is back when he was living up in Abilene so I drove up there he fired it up and as soon as I heard the sound I said that's your catalytic converter. Apparently the brick inside broke up and chunks of it were rattling around. He said are you sure? Oh yeah, So we shut the truck off got underneath it and I Gave the cat a hammer fist and you could hear it rattled And boy was he happy his engine wasn't blown up. So what we did Was cut the cats out take a rod knock all the guts out and then put the cat shells back in. He was fixing to deploy to Afghanistan so he didn't have time or money really to fix it at the moment So while he was deployed His wife, my daughter, and I conspired to buy all the parts he needed And when he got back we fixed it and then found out he had a front wheel bearing That was going bad, which explained the occasionally flickering ABS light. sometimes it's odd how things interact. If this was my minivan, I'd be knocking the guts out of the cat and see what happens

You know my grandson just turned one in september. I was out there for Thanksgiving and I got to thinking about how much stuff has changed from the time my grandfather was that age till he died. When he was one we hadn't flown at all yet. Men had not gone to the Moon electricity in the home was fairly uncommon as was indoor plumbing or central heating and air conditioning for that matter. Telephones were a rarity. By the time he died all that stuff was in common use. I remember watching Men land on the Moon. What's he going to see when he's a grandfather.

You could take a set of dial calipers and measure across the points on the cam lobes to see if you're getting a variance in width. That would confirm the cam is your issue because it would surely suck if you went through all the aggravation of finding a new one and it wasn't your issue. I suppose you can measure across the flats too cuz your variance could possibly be there as well. Doubtful but hey it doesn't take much to check them.

At 20 foot pounds I'd probably use blue Loctite just to make sure the nut didn't loosen

I used to know an old timer, since passed, that was active back in the day building hot cars. He told me that the tapered axle setup would shear the key once power got up there enough. The solution was to cut another keyway 180 degrees out from the original. Howeer, and this is according to him, the ultimate solution was to replace those axles with later ones that were beefier, such as the 8 3/4. Now granted, axles don't make HP, but they have to be able to handle it and it's a smart move to work back to front making a high power car. Most build a stout engine then start replacing parts broken by that added power. Based on the old timer's info I put a 9 1/4 in my 38 Plymouth. I also added the benefit of modern, self adjusting, self energizing 11" drum brakes. While you can make the older stuff work well, it's maintenance intensive in comparison. I'd rather drive than wrench.

That is pretty much what I did for my 51. It works, but the wipers are slow.

hmm, a longer speedometer cable is cheaper than a new tail shaft housing. One would think, I know, that MoPar wouldn't make a special tail shaft housing for the RHD market. But what do I know, lol. At some point they did make a new tail shaft housing so there you go.

That would be the century before the last century, lol. But I was thinking that when I wrote it, lol.

I do not know, it is rated at 10A, which is the fuse size for the wipers. Not sure what fuse the horns use. I run my horns on 12v and they will wake the dead, in the next county, from last century.

When I worked at the cement plant we were changing out from sodium vapor to LED high bays. We replaced them much more often that the sodium lights, which was a PITA because we could just unscrew the sodiums and screw in a new bulb. Had to replace the entire LED fixture when they failed. The LED lights did not hold up well. But that might be more of a function of the ambient conditions than the lights. After all, it was 130F on the mill floor, in the winter. I sweated a lot, lol.

Yes, it is. The only concern I have is that the motor might rotate opposite of when it did as a 6v positive ground setup thereby messing up the parking feature. I am not certain it does rotate opposite though. But my parking doesn't work and that might be more of a case of the switch inside the motor needing attention. Have not looked at that. When I got the car the motor was out and the linkage completely disconnected, took me a while to sort that out so take pics, number the linkage ends, make a diagram, whatever you need to get it back together with minimal fuss.

Not a fan of the commercial trappings of Christmas. But nonetheless, have a great one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BXFC6MD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I just run the original six volt motor in my 51 but it goes real fast on 12 volts. So fast I figured it was going to beat the linkage to death. So I made a current limiter to slow it down. They do make a 12 to 6 volt converter rated at 10 amps which is the fuse rating for that motor. I've got one but haven't tried it yet. I got it off of Amazon.

Hey I'm in San Angelo as well. If you need some help or anything shoot me a message

The problem with an annual inspection reporting your mileage and basing taxes on that is people will get a big tax bill once a year and raise Kane about it. Kind of like how the income tax morphed into a payroll withholding situation. What the states ought to do and most likely will end up doing is you pay the tax as you charge your EV much like you pay the tax as you fuel your gas vehicles. That way they bite you a little bit at a time instead of a big chunk all at once

I am too dang old to sleep in a car these days. Regardless, lol.

If I recall correctly the nut is just there to lock down the screw so the adjustment doesn't move. You have to loosen the nut before you can adjust the screw.

Loren, If you are going to machine the crank and the flywheel to make this work Have the machinist tap the holes in the crank so you could use normal bolts instead of that crazy nut and bolt combo.

Years ago I wanted a front swaybar on my 64 300. Took measurements of my front suspension then went to the boneyard and started measuring. Found a front bar from an 89 Ram worked perfect. How easily something adapted works really depends on your skills.

Rather than guessing, buy a brake pressure kit. It is a guage that screws inplace of a bleeder. That will tell you lots. If the fluid isn't squirting out at the T that switch ties into that is a problem, tells me no rear brakes to speak of. Since the fronts and the rears all get the same pressure from the same source I have to wonder how well the fronts are working? Finally, and this is important, you need to make sure your brakes are properly adjusted, otherwise this very issue can occur. Pressure will not build till the shoes hit the drums and if there is too much gap you cannot build enough pressure.

Assuming we know the offset, I don't. I seem to recall Don Coatney having this issue and his solution was, well less than optimal, imo. He had the bellhousing machined to sit the starter deep in. Not sure why why didn't have the flywheel machined instead, it would have lightened it up a bit too.

Oldmoparts.com is Andy Bernbaum. Been using them since the 80's. Len Dawson is a source I have used since the 80's. You need a part number. https://dpmotorparts.com/ AMS Obsolete is another source, used them on and off. https://www.amsnos.com/ MoParPro seems to have a lot of stuff, but frankly they are overpriced, shady and a source of last resort, imo. MoParMall is another source. DCM Classics for mechanical bits. https://www.dcmclassics.com/ Ebay can be a source, but you better have a part number and know what you need. I usually hit up the local NAPA for stuff, but my oldest is a 51 Plymouth, so I dunno how far back they are useful.

How many of those pages are warning ans cautions brought about by the legal system?