Sniper

But it is how the size is gained that matters most. Adding in a third row, but over all height and width are the same, not so much an improvement as the third row restricts airflow and has hotter air flowing across it. Themodynamics show that the biggest factor in heat transfer is the difference between the heated medium and the cooling medium, the larger the differences the greater the effect. Now if you were to take a two core radiator and lengthen it enough to add in the same amount of tubes a three row gave you then you'd see a larger increase in cooling than the same tubes in a three row configuration. Which is not to say you don't get some increase in cooling with a three row, it's just a diminishing return in that style packaging. Lots of mopars had wider radiators in a HD cooling package. 22 vs 26" radiators come to mind. However, if you don;t hae the room, or don;t want to cut up the core support, then you are limited to what can fit there and in that case a three row is an improvement, of sorts. Of course there are other factors too, such as fin count. More fins per inch of tube length is better,, until it gets dense enough to restrict airflow. To overcome that, to an extent, you make wider tubes that allow more fin to tube contact. That is limited by materials strength though, Aluminum tubes can be wider than brass in this case, but brass conducts heat better, however the lead based solder that connect the fins to the tube, in brass applications, negates that to an extent. Aluminum tubes and fins are welded, all aluminum, so no lead restricting heat flow. Many variables

Here's the write up I did when I ran into this issue.

Wasn't responding to you, I was responding to QEC's comment.

You ordered a set for the 23" engines. All Chryslers, Desotos adn Canadian vehicles use the 25" setup, I nthe future look it up as a Chrysler not a Dodge engine or select the Canadian option. FEL-PRO MS8583B

What aligns the transmission to the bellhousing is the input bearing retainer outer diameter and the corresponding hole in the Bell housing.

looks like it, made in LA.

My 51 Cambridge has that trim. To know for sure what you have you need the vehicle number.

I connected mine the same place the factory connected theirs. It was a pain though since it was right net to the starter and room is limited there.

Of course

I've been running one of those Champion aluminum radiators specifically made for my 51. Had it for more than a year now with no issues. It's been my observation with old radiators that if you start leaking stop leak or even soldering a hole doesn't really help because you just find the next weakest spot to leak

Mopar called it Lean Burn. At RockAuto they call it an engine control module. It also controls the carb. Search BSE EM172 at rockauto to see what one looks like. I have not dug that far into the one I have, Gee, I have one, well had now that's it's been converted, Rock auto lists three remans and a new option for them. Even more on Amazon. Was he racing slant 6's? Sounds like a real butt to me. Wallowing in 32 years of ignorance.

I got to quit waking up so early, lol. You're doing it right.

Hmm, either that pic is flipped or it is righty loosey in old Blighty, lol.

Later model Mopar rims like on the 2009 Challenger have a deeper offset and that's what I'm running on the back of my 51 Plymouth with extra wide tires. But they're 17 in rims. Some of the Mustang 15" rims have similar offsets and the right bolt pattern but the centering hole is too small. I imagine if you decided you wanted to go that route you could take the flanges off the axles down to a machine shop and have them turn that Center and ring down the fit not sure what you do on the front though I guess you could do the same thing but you have to separate the drums from the flanges

My Philosophy on jurisdictions that have different requirements than the one my car is registered in is that I don't worry about it. I'm not subject to their requirements. It's not like I put a second plate on my car when I go to a state that requires two plates I'm not registered in that state. Well actually I am Texas requires two plates but you get the point

Looks good so far. How did you determine plenum volume? I have a vague recollection that it should equal 1 cylinders displacement but I can't remember if that was for port injection or in general.

If you are worried about hubcentric fit I would look at drum brakes from later model Mopars. Cuz I know the rims fit the hubs fine so one would assume the brake drum would too. Such as an 87 Diplomat they have 10 inch and 11 inch drum brake options for the Rears hope this helps

Speedway Motors sells threaded tubing in various lengths and if they don't have the length you want they will custom cut one for you they charge accordingly though. You can screw tie rod ends into those and use them instead of heim joints

The only thing I can guess is that the alternator puts out a more consistent system voltage. Your coil output is directly related to the voltage coming in so with the old setup as your voltage got lower the coil output got lower and maybe that made an effect on combustion happening or not happening.

I would imagine NOS Springs are good to use they don't really wear out sitting on the shelf they wear out in use. What is it Espo Springs and things is kind of the go-to if you want new Springs

The second time I removed the drums on my car the right rear would not come loose and I beat on It till I couldn't beat no more. So I just left it on overnight went out the next morning to take the trash out and give it a few wacks and off it popped. As for those adjusters they're two sets there's uppers and lowers the uppers have two nice flat spots you can get a wrench on the lowers are designed to be adjusted from the inside of the drum not the outside. So I cut a couple of slots in those with a Dremel tool so I could adjust them from the outside with a flat tip screwdriver. But that was after I took everything apart cleaned it up and regreased everything that needed to be greased

You know, I am not real sure using a liquid to determine valve sealing is really all that useful. One thing I learned in the Navy was that something watertight isn't necessarily air tight, but the other way around is. I mean, think about it, gasoline is "thicker" than air/exhaust gasses so less likely to leak by. Exhaust gasses are under a lot more pressure as well so more likely to leak by. I guess as a gross, I have nothing better to use check, it works to an extent. A block off plate with a schrader valve and some soapy water would probably be more informative.

Couple of things to note. Clean the housing well before you assemble it, aluminum swarf will be all in it. The screw that holds the timing plate to the bottom of the distributor is metric, M6 x 15 should be fine. You will also need an M6 flat and lock washer. The O ring that came on the /6 distributor housing shaft, forget about it. I ended up using a fat O ring at the the junction of the plate and the housing, on the engine side to seal it. I don't know the size, I just grabbed one that it from my O ring assortment kit. The pin that holds the lower collar onto the flatties shaft is peened in place on both ends. It is not a roll pin I ended up using my Dremel with a carbide burr to eat the peen off then I drilled it out with an 1/8" bit. Prised the remaining bits of the pin out and reused the flatty's lower collar. I used a 3/16 roll pin to re-install it. I had two lengths in my roll pin assortment, too short and too long, so I used too long and trimmed it with the dremel once installed. You will want an assortment of 1/2" ID shims to shim the vertical slop out of this setup. You want a hair of play, no more than you had before you played mix and match, but some of my flatty shims were not usable and that left a lot of slop, fortunately, I had shims on hand. Do not forget to check and set the reluctor to pickup gap, 0.008" is the spec using a brass feeler gauge, or you can double up a dollar and that is close enough, 0.0075". Make sure the reluctor and pickup are parallel to each other, you can bend the reluctor bracket to fix that. Grease the moving parts, especially the mechanical advance, clean off the old stuff first, lol. I couldn't find anything in the FSM about what to use, So I went with a high temp wheel bearing grease. I am not talking about the distributor cam lube here. That is no longer needed.

All assembled and done

Test fit in a spare block, this is the final exam, lol. Sits flush.