Sniper

Wow, I don't think you could buy the hot rod parts for anywhere near what he's asking for the whole car.

The PCM sensor uses 5v from the PCM, it sends a voltage back to the PCM that varies depending on it's temperature and the PCM interprets that returned voltage as a temperature reading. OBD1 is not nearly as sophisticated as OBD2. Example: Coolant temp reads 50F, ambient reads 70F, intake air temp reads 125F. All are "valid" temperatures as far as the range of over all expectations go. After 5 minutes of running the coolant temp doesn't change. OBD1 thinks "it's in a valid range", OBD2 says "wait a minute", OBD2 knows that value should have gone up and based on load, run time, ambient temps and intake air temps has a pretty good estimation of where it should be and if it's not there will throw a code. OBD1 will not as it doesn't do that type of calculations. Now if the coolant temp sensor returns an invalid signal, such as not having 5v going to the sensor, OBD2 will throw a code. OBD1 might. This is really where being able to view the live data from that sensor comes in handy, One thing I found when putting together the parts for my EFI swap was a source that listed the data and values from the various sensors I am using. Microsquirt (my PCM) will let me look at that data live so I can see a flaky sensor that returns an "in range" value that is not correct. Such as telling me my coolant temperature is 50F, which is "in range" for that sensor, when it's actually past the thermostat opening temperature. Don't forget a grounded signal line from the sensor to the PCM will also confuse it. Unfortunately, I only have GM sensor data, but if we knew what the data was for your sensors we could back probe the voltage to the PCM and see if what's going there is rational or not.

Well, a good enough for government work type of guy maybe, lol. A wise man does what eases his mind.

Back then there were two coolant temps sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. If the one for the computer is sending bad data to the PCM then it may be the reason it's running rich. Essentially, it's telling the computer I am not warmed up so the computer stays in open loop and it runs rich once the engine is actually up to temperature. Gauge sender PCM sender OBD1 isn't sophisticated enough for you to actually look at the data and see if this is the case, unfortunately. OBDII is smart enough to let you do that, which cuts down on the issue of shotgunning parts, but at the expense of a costly scanner.

The only relay in the mopar injector circuit is the one that feeds 12v to all the injectors. The computer uses injector drivers (solid state device, not a relay) to trigger the injectors on/off via the ground. Those usually either work, or do not work, very rarely are they intermittent. Either the coolant temp sensor, the one for the computer not the dash gauge, is flaky, you have a leaky injector or the PCM is wonky. If you have the ability to measure the fuel pressure at the injector rails you can see how fast that pressure bleeds down, if it's quick you have a leaky injector(s). Have you run the codes?

This right here. If you fill the radiator fully it will puke the excess out until it's happy.

He said it's looks like someone ground on it, as in it is physically damaged. They should be replaceable, however you may have a problem finding SAE thread grease fittings in the Netherlands.

I ended up using some 1/2" ID thin steel shims to resolve that issue, I just used however many it took to get almost all the vertical free play out, Your local hardware store may carry them.

Yeah, sometimes the decision is made for you. One of the reasons I went HEI was cost, not to mention it is a superior design.

Yeah, my lawn mower is like that Sounds like you got it sorted. Evey car likes what it likes.

Manual chokes depend on the driver to use them properly. The last manual choke car I had, a 64 Chrysler 300, operated like this. Pull the choke knob out about a half inch, drive till it starts to bog and hesitate then push it all the way in and it ran fine. how long that took really depended on how cold it was. In San Diego, where I drove it most, it was rarely needed. When I went to radar school in Tennessee (winter there) it took a while to warm up enough to not needed. Of course that car had no flapper. But usually, by the time I got all the snow and ice off the windows it was most of the way there.

Cold weather related issues point me to one place to start The choke. Does it work and is it adjusted properly? Next place I would look is the exhaust flapper, does it work properly?

Yes, when I switched to my off hand to continue the whaling I about broke my shin with a near miss (not real coordinated as a lefty, lol).

Modern "vented" caps don't vent so well. Ran into that issue when I first bought by 51, I could hear the gas thank oil canning. Some drill a small hole in the lip of the fill tube, I modded my cap.

The bearing retainer is a snug fit in the bellhousing. That's what centers the transmission. It is entirely possible that after 70 some odd years rust has formed and is holding it in place. Now in my yoith I would just to grab the tail shaft and jerk it up and down until it popped free not thinking to thread in some bolts loosely to keep it from falling on me. You might have to get a little more energetic trying to separate it but screw two bolts in a couple of threads just to keep it from falling

Thanks for the clarification I just posted two links I found after a real quick search I didn't go digging deep

Which method did you use? And congratulations.

I did not, but if the cost wasn't too much I probably would, just for peace of mind.

I beat the tar out of mine, whaled on it till I could no longer swing my 5lb hand sledge. Left it it like that over night, next day I was taking the trash out and decided to give it some more whacks, it popped loose after two more whacks. Mind you this was the pass side only that needed this abuse, driver's side popped free simply by loosening the big nut and pushing the car side to side. Not more than two months earlier I had both sides off doing other things. You can neer tell with these things and there are times I seriously think going to a more modern axle that no longer has this setup would be worth it for nothing else.

P15 up to engine #769665 662 598 (37-48 230's as well) P15 after engine #769665 1142 451 (49-54 230's as well) Dunno what the difference is. Years ago when I bought my first Mopar, a 75 Dart I had an issue with my dipstick not reading full until 8 qts were put in it. So I went down to my local Dodge dealer to buy a new dipstick, this was in 1984 and Dodge was still making slant sixes which my Dart had. I was told the part was no longer available. So I went tot he parts store, bought a universal dipstick, cut it to length and marked it 1 qt low and full. How I did that was put 4 qts in, made a mark with a file, then added the 5th qt and marked it as full.

They are wire wound resistors. Twice the voltage means half the current and current flow is what causes the heat. That all said, I put a 12v blower motor in my 51. The old one's wiring had a bad case of insulation failure. http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor

12v thru a 6v switch should not be an issue, the other way around though could be. When I rewired my car I used 65ish Mustang switches as they fit the motif. I'd post a link by I'll be darned if I can find the order. But I got them from CJ Pony parts.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1953-plymouth-column-to-floor-shift-conversion.617487/ https://p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/133-floor-shift-concepts-for-mopar-column-shift-transmssions/

I suppose it is possible that chunks of the cat blew into the muffler or resonator. It is also not unknown for the baffles in a muffler to let loose and plug it up. Someone mentioned using the O2 bung to measure exhaust pressure. I would do that.

Problems are as follows. There is no ball joint in the suspension, so too much caster will cause wear. There are no rubber bushings in the system, so no give so to speak, which aggravates the first point. More caster makes the steering wheel harder to turn. That all said, I did get some positive caster when I realigned my system, I forget how much and I dunno where my notes are. How I did it was by re adjusting the upper outer pivot. so that it was biased towards the rear of the car.