Sniper

the fusible link protects everything connected to the splice, not just the regulator and you want the link as close to the battery as possible to protect the wiring as well. 10 ga. seems overkill for the regulator, heck that's the same size as the feed to the battery.

Trust me, a head gasket blown between two cylinders will show a lot more than a 10psi drop in compression and it will knock.

What gear box fluid are you using? A lot of shift issues can be caused by that.

Going to be interesting

I just watched a very interesting YouTube video by Lake speed Jr. He's a oil expert. He tested Havoline conventional 10w30 versus Walmart super tech synthetic 10 w30 and Valvoline VR1 10w30. They were all pretty close however the super tech brand held up to thermal oxidation the best. The VR1 had the least amount of friction however Lake was pretty clear to say you don't want to use racing oil in your daily driver. In any case all of these differences were fairly small and any one of the three would be perfectly fine in our rides. So as Sam said today's oil is so much better than what they had back then it doesn't really matter

That would be my first choice. It's relatively cheap and might be the solution. Especially if it's a new to you engine that you have no idea what it's maintenance has been like (too long oil change intervals come to mind). Some Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase would probably help after you change the oil.

The yoke holds the bearing in place, not the seal. Typically, the seal is driven in flush to the housing.

Might see how hot the coil is during these no starts compared to times it starts fine. Had an issue years ago with my 87 Diplomat dying when hot, let it cool and it started/ran fine. In this case the coil was located fairly close to the pre cat on the fender well. A new coil, relocated to the more traditional spot on the intake of the 360 and no more issues.

With a pull in voltage of 8 and a drop out voltage of 1.2-5 the cited relay would be iffy in a "6v" system. Somewhere, someone posted the pn for a Bosch 6 relay, 0332204001

You know what also works good to hold a pan gasket in place? Thread, tie the gasket to the pan using sewing thread at each hole. These days though, I just use copper spray to glue it in place. Several ways to keep the gasket from moving around on you.

Yes, LED means Light Emitting Diode. Diodes are polarity sensitive. Now it might be possible the bulb assembly has a circuit in it to ensure the diode portion of the bulb assembly only gets the proper polarity regardless of how you wire the socket. In which case, it does not matter. But I don't know that they do, or don't, for a fact. As a real quick check, don't assume it's universal to all, I looked up the specs on an LED 1157 bulb. This particular bulb is polarity sensitive.

Yes, arcing, back EMF, etc are simply two ways of saying noise on the line. Probably not a real issue with most of our rides, after all we have virtually no electronics in the car, But nonetheless, if you have that style relay polarity is important on the 85 and 86 terminals. Since those terminals are isolated from the chassis ground it shouldn't be a problem regardless of chassis ground polarity.

Lots of DC relays have a diode in them to prevent back EMF. Those are polarity sensitive and generally have a diode inked on the case. You can see it in the pic, between 85 and 86, the triangle and line pic. positive had better be on the 86 terminal.

Might help if we knew what engine we were looking at? Some engines have certain idiosyncrasies, such as the SBC and it's OEM valve stem seals failing early. It could be any number of things, like an intake leak allowing the engine to suck oil into the cylinder, assuming that;s applicable here.

Like I told my son Porsches are expensive whether it's the girl or the car.

You guys realize I also own a beamer and that's how I pronounce it and I don't care what the hoity-toity types have to say about it.

Andy makes a good point. I actually checked the torque on my gearbox bolts this summer, two were loose.

Sorry I spent a lot of time out at sea. I read every book on the ship that wasn't a tech manual and started reading the dictionary.

You know, a pump up garden sprayer and some fittings would make a very cheap priming tool. I use a similar rig to clean injectors.

It's carbon, a byproduct of burning hydrocarbons. Modern cars have cats that run at high temps to help ameliorate that. Probably jetted too rich still. But just using the choke will richen it up anyway.

You know, having driven a few turbo cars over the years, 89 Plymouth minivan, 22 Silverado and a 15 BMW 535i, I love the supercharger. Holy cow, talk about right now acceleration. Now I really know what they mean by turbo lag. Of course, there is the old saying that if you have turbo lag you aren't driving it right. Gonna have to get my HP fix

I did see it when it aired originally. Had no thoughts to get a Jag back then though,

Well if they hadn't written it in cursive LOL

Yes, tanks inc is wrong. Your rides uses a thermostatic gauge, not an electromagnetic one, Essentially, your gauge has two heated bumetallic strips inside that controls the needle by varying the readings based on the two inputs from the sending unit. Without both inputs the gauge doesn't work properly. With the more common, today, electromagnetic setup it uses one magnetic field and a spring. The spring wants to move it to zero, the field wants to move it away from zero based on the strength of the magnetic field. Pages from Chrysler Shop Manual C28 C30 C33.pdfPages from 1950 Gauges.pdfv 1.17 MB · 24 downloads

Not sure when MoPar went to mounted the upper shock mount to the frame, rather than the upper control arm. Many have relocated that mount to the frame to improve shock performance. There are a number of threads here detailing what people have done. For myself, I just got the collapsed and extended length numbers from the stock shock then perused Speedway Motors online catalog using those numbers as the search criteria. I was able to find a set of modern gas charged performance shocks that fit the stock shock location after I drilled out the mounting bushings from 1/2" to 5/8". A substantially improved setup, imo. Is it as optimal as relocating the upper mount and using a similar shock in that setup? Nope, it it much better, yes. As for the steering, others mentioned tie rods, yes they wear so inspect and replace as needed. Another spot to check is the steering box mounting bolts. two of mine were loose.