Sniper

Hmm, I live in west Texas, 100+ degree days are the norm. I run whatever gas Shell has, no effort to use ethanol free gas. Stock fuel system, from tank to carb. Nothing added to it in the way of heat shielding, or anything that wasn't on the car when the factory rolled it out the door. My exhaust flapper works properly. I have never had this problem. So, either Shell isn't selling gas with ethanol in it (doubtful) of it's not "hereditary". In fact, I believe it's more a confirmation bias than a wide spread issue. You hear from people that have this issue, you do not hear from people that do not. So the impression is that this is a widespread issue.

The Freewheeling Tony Smith has a pretty good go thru on oil pumps and their issues on facebook. Someone put together a post on it here.

Now if you had a limited slip differential that theoretically wouldn't happen. Until you exceeded the slip torque value and then it would. But in your case since you haven't opened differential that's exactly what happens when both tires are in the air.

What's the issue with the oil pump?

Curious if they send you the correct sender.

Hmm, I guess we all have a different idea of what ready for assembly means. To me that means all the cleaning, painting, measuring etc is done. All that is needed is putting the parts in, That shouldn't take more than a day.

Yes it is. I ought to fit, though some of the internals might be different than a pass car 230.

As a note, I have one of those adapters, I have not tried to test fit it yet. The wheel I want to use is on back order. Guess I ought to see if it fits before I spend the money on the wheel, lol.

did you do a site search?

Assuming everything is already all cleaned and laid out and ready to assemble doesn't take more than a day and not even a really long day. There are lots of YouTube videos out there showing you how to do things. And it also depends on how detailed you want to get. I don't know what your machine shop is already done for you but it's not a really difficult job

That's the comment I was responding to. Although sometimes your battery is bad enough that just turning on the headlights is enough to make it fail. That happened with my mother-in-law's Kia. Put my meter on the battery it read about 12.7 volts had to turn on the headlights and it dropped the two and a half told her her battery was bad

Headlights don't really provide that big a draw compared to the starter you're looking at 10 or maybe 15 amps with the headlights and hundreds with the starter.

I always loved the 38's

I believe 12bolt bought Langdon out?

Love that Sedan Delivery

While uncommon it is not unknown for a brand new battery to be bad especially under a heavy load. And starting your car is the heaviest load it will ever see. I would put a meter on it try to start the car and see what the voltage drops down to

I cannot answer your question directly. But what I have done in the past when I come across a fastener that the manual has no torque specification for is I look up the torque spec for a nut with that thread pitch and diameter. Now there are some important things you need to know to get the correct spec if it's a plated fastener you need to know what type of plating because that will affect the specification. But generally speaking those kind of things in our applications are unplated so you don't really have to worry about it. Also if you use any kind of lubricant on the threads that will change the torque specification. Usually at least in the later Mopar, the threads are lubricated with 30 weight engine oil for the specifications given. I don't know if that applies to Studebakers or even the early Mopar manuals

Countersunk bolts are self-aligning. So when you bolt that adapter plate to the bell housing it's going to bolt into the same position every time, theoretically. If it were a free floating setup such as you would have with hex head bolts then there would be opportunity for it to move around. I would Mount up the adapter plate check the run out in accordance with the service manual and adjust it for Center, torque down those bolts make sure everything still in spec and then drill a couple of alignment holes and run a pin through them so that that plate goes on to the same spot every time in the future. Not that you'd have a lot of call for removing it. If it's off, it would not surprise me if the later model offset dial pin that was mentioned would also work on our flatheads to adjust it. The factory does all of that when they built the assembly so theoretically if your adapter plate is perfectly centered on the bell housing, then you should not be any more off than the factory had it. Yeah, some of us can be belt and suspender types. But inherently, we're lazy, LOL. We'd rather do it once, do it right, and never have to do it again. The thing about the adapter plate is that those guys don't know your specific situation. Maybe you swapped out the bell housing, and even the factory will tell you if you do that you need to double check the run out.

Sometimes research can take you down a rabbit hole lol. I've run into that quite a bit. When I made my air cleaners for my dual throttle body fuel injection setup I just pretty much decided to squeeze in the biggest air filters I could and that turned out to be 7 inch diameter for each throttle body. Since then I've rethought it and I've decided to go with a 14 inch air cleaner and just punched two holes in the base plate to mount on the throttle bodies and have them share a common element. Will that work better? I don't know did I do the math to see which had more area for filtration? Nope. I just kind of winged it LOL

Everything else being equal water has better thermal transfer characteristics than any mixture of coolant and water. We're coolant and that's mostly a misnomer shines is in Corrosion Prevention and not freezing as easily. Depending on the type of coolant it can run hotter without boiling over as well. But unless your car is on the edge of overheating with coolant running straight water is always a bad idea. At the temporary measure once you fix the leak to get you home sure to run it all the time that's a great way of asking for a lot of crud in your cooling system

Yes, that is normal. In fact it is a measurable quantity used to calculate caster during an alignment.

I bought a 12 volt jump pack at Harbor Freight from a lawn tractor because it's battery is dead completely. It has no problems firing it up I don't think it has a minimum voltage requirement and I think it has a lead acid battery

No I do not profess to be an Overdrive experts. But why would they tell you not to use the governor?

Here's the appropriate TSB for that specific issue. It's more than just a clamp. TSB 07-171-20 Battery Sensor Removal.pdf

The operation of the OD is not dependent on what voltage your system may be. So not using the governor would be a "bad thing" for me. Only thing I can think of with that comment in the directions is that the governor itself is designed to use 6v. They make a 12v version. As for polarity and such, wiring doesn't know or care. Using a toggle switch instead of the factory kick down switch is functional, I suppose, but likely a PITA in use. Not sure why they tell you not to use it, a 6v switch having 12v run thru it is not likely to be an issue. As far as the physical wiring is concerned, if properly made, the 6v harness should have heavier gauge wire and would work on either voltage, the 12v wiring might be undersized for 6v use.