Sniper

This is entirely possible, and if this is the case then your points are dirty enough to need a good cleaning

Dwell is adjusted by setting the gap of the points when fully open it has nothing to do with either of the external bolts on the distributor that control timing.

Voltage is important in regard to contact arcing, you want it to be above the operating voltage it is breaking.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.CBF-20.html#Specifications

They make circuit breakers that pop in place of glass fuses, finding one specified for 6v though...

Run them on 12v and everyone will say "Where''s the train?".

The local Army surplus store still has old school jerry cans with old school spouts on them.

When I got my 1 Cambridge I just used the company truck, 3/4 ton and yes I was allowed to use it for personal use. Rented a U haul trailer, my advice to you is to double check the trailer. Air up the tires, grease the ball, check the lights, torque the lug nuts. All of those items needed addressed on my rental. Made the 12 hour round trip without issue.

You are not going to be able to spin the oil pump with a drill the drive gear is on the oil pump not the distributor. If you tried to spin the distributor over with a drill you'll be trying to crank the entire engine over

That depends on a few things, type of head gasket, which way you are measuring the head, type of head material, etc. Copper head gaskets are less forgiving of surface issues than a composite, both are available for the flathead. Max variance along the LENGTH of the head would be .006" and 0.003" ACROSS the head, for composite, less for copper. This is for a cast iron head, less for aluminum. As suggested, take the head to a machine shop and get it resurfaced, won't get easier than now, or cheaper.

In this picture you can see how the hard line is routed across the engine. I do not have a good picture of the distributor end of the line, sorry

In this picture you can see where the hard line for the vacuum advance hooks to the carb on my 51 Plymouth.

A resurfaced flywheel doesn't mean it's evenly resurfaced, ran into that issue before. Put a dial indicator on it and see what the run out is.

Disc, the way the holes are machines a cupped one won't work properly.

Might hit the judged car shows and use those as a reference?

I got a new company truck about three months ago, Silverado 1500 with the 2.7L turbo motor. I had a Silverado 2500 with the 6.0L V8. I am surprised that the 4 banger seems to do fine power wise, not so much better on mileage though. I have no idea how it will tow, though it does have the factory tow package. I do not like the tow mirrors it has, blocks way too much of the view out the windows when I am looking for cross traffic at an intersection, been a few near misses there. I also dislike the lane keeping feature and the automatic braking. My BMW has auto braking and it is smooth, the Chevy is like an on/off switch. The lane keeping feature will fight you, got pulled over when the truck was real new for that, under 500 miles at the time. At the time I didn't know what had been going on.

It's been a long time since I changed a clutch but I don't remember them wobbling on the input shaft. I would highly recommend you just get your old one rebuilt. There's a place in Tennessee I think that seems to be a good one maybe somebody could pipe up with the name?

I think we need to define what the OP means by restoration. Typically, that means as it left the factory. All the factory bolts in the factory locations, wires run like the factory did it with the proper color codes and sizing, the correct markings on the parts, proper hoses, belts, etc. If that is what the OP is asking for, then no there is no assembly manual for that. You will have to do that yourself, take pics, ask for pics, hit up the car shows and ask questions, take a ton of notes, use the parts and service manual to elaborate where they can. Join the Plymouth Owner' Club. It will not be quick, or cheap. Now if you are just asking for a car that looks good, drives, stops and steers good, then the price drops, a lot. A good shop should be able to do that without too much fuss. There is a thread here where a HS kid went through a 47 Plymouth, lots of pictures, advice and such. Not sure how much it will help with a 48 but here it is.

Did a bit of quick research, online shopping only, not sure how/if in store pricing might change things. Autolite 306 plugs, price one each, not sure how/if shipping changes for 6. Tax not included but obviously the more you pay for the plugs the more taxes you get to pay too. Rock auto $1.89, $10.99 shipping Napa $3.99. in stock Autozone $1.99, home delivery only, free delivery Oct 23 O'reilly Auto. $1.99 next day to store Advance Auto $1.99, home delivery only, $9.99 Car Quest redirects to Advance Auto So in my case, best price is O'reilly, next day, If I have it have it NOW! Napa is the only one in stock at the store. If I were to be buying more than plugs and if they all come from the same warehouse it might make sense to throw a set of plugs on my next RA order.

Rockauto shows to have Autolite 306's

Yes, I told you it was a PITB. But I'd rather replace it at the time of my choosing, in my garage rather than having it let go on the side of the road somewhere.

My philosophy, after playing the replace only the leaky one game, is that once one starts leaking the rest aren't far behind. So I replace them all, yes a PITB, but that's how I am.

Again Bullwinkle?

Why do jacks always disappear? I don't have the original one either, so I just bought a scissors jack to do the deed. Oh, I noticed you have a chock, I almost found out the hard way, you need chocks. That parking brake doesn't do diddly with one rear wheel in the air.

My local NAPA recently moved to a bigger place. Autozone was the closest parts store with them being a block further away. The NAPA is now my closest parts store, yay. They are about three blocks from the house.