Sniper

Next snow we get I am taking the 51 out to do donuts in a parking lot. Then maybe I'll find a raised bed railroad track and catch some air. For my finale, I will swing by the donut shop, flip off the cops and see if they can catch me. But first, I got to get my green fedora, mask and overcoat setup.

As mentioned above, RPM is the key. My 51 has 28" tall rear tires and a 3.91 gear ratio. At 65 that works out to 3042 rpm at 65. With an OD trans, ratio 0.7, 65 becomes 2130 rpm. 75 is 2457 rpm, highway speeds are 75 around here. Now, the issue becomes braking, as mentioned, and high speed stability. When I first got my 51 is was squirrely at 65. A front end redo and a good alignment took care of that.

Cars were made to be driven, not hidden away.

Why not?

Since you do not tell us what those are, then no we cannot assume to rule them out. I'm leaning towards needed a good carb cleaning and rebuild, but that assumes you did indeed set the above correctly. Your compression readings tell me you don't have valve issues, either sealing or adjustment. Not sure why you felt the need to pull the head off, hopefully you put it back together right, including the proper torquing and retorqueing of the head bolts.

A man's got to know his limitations

What did you use for a board?

What makes a plug hot or cold is the path from the center electrode to the metal shell, that is inside the plug. Eternal lengths are not really part of it.

Kind of pricey for no engine, no transmission and no mention of a title

Depends on your fab skills.

I used to own a 64 300, not a letter car though. 413 and a stick car too.

It's MoparPro and he is persona non grata around here for a reason.

I think you are missing that I have very carefully stated "fully charged battery". If your fully charged battery, less any surface charge effect is below 12.8v, on a 12v battery, then it is weak and failing, get much below 12.4 and it is not long for life. Load testing will confirm this, but without a baseline load test you really can't do much interpreting. IOW, tested when new to establish what new performance is, only then can you make more specific opinions about it's health in use. Frankly, the best load tester you can get you already have, your starter. A starter draws hundreds of amps, a hand held load tester maybe 100? It can take up to 14 hours to fully charge a lead acid battery. So odds are the battery in your car isn't fully charged in regards to this discussion. Anyway, if you really want to go down the battery rabbit hole this place has a lot of info. https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

What are you measuring during a load test? Voltage But what do I know, I've only tested thousands of batteries for the last 10 year.

Do not drill anything, not need to release the cylinder.

I test batteries for a living, last week I tested almost 650 identical 12v batteries. Had 5 bad ones and as soon as I hooked up the tester and saw the fully charged voltage I knew they were bad. The tester just confirmed it. A good battery's voltage will drop down with a steady load on it then start to climb back up. A bad battery will not come back up with a load on it, some will drop to a very low level quickly. Turning on head lights can simulate enough of a load most times. Typically, the fully charged voltage of a 12v battery is in excess of 13v. If it's about 12.6 or less it will fail a load test. I would expect to see a 6v battery somewhere near v, but I don't test those for a living. You can tell just by measuring the voltage of a fully charged battery, of course it helps if you have 650 of the same exact battery to used as a data sample, lol.

Wait, is it CW or CCW? I misremember anymore, lol

Not really, that'll use a later model key than your 47 used so it won't be able to match the door locks any more. Bernbaums might have what you need, but ask specifically about the key. In the picture of your link there is a brass button sticking out the side, that is what engages the housing and keeps the cylinder in place. To remove it you have to rotate the cylinder to the right (CW, I know) and then there should be a hole in the side of the housing that will allow you to push that button in and pull the cylinder out of the housing, BTW, that same cylinder,, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US12L is under $8 at Rockauto. You can even get it for less (thank moparpro) at NAPA, lol. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE98900021 Standard doesn't show that it fits a 47, but the factory parts book shows 35-54 all use the same, so it should fit. I had to have keys cut for my 51 a couple years ago, didn't have door, glove box or trunk keys. So I took them to my local locksmith and he took care of me but did mention it was a good thing I didn't need anything rekeyed as he didn't have the correct pins and they were hard to get/unavailable. At sometime int he past someone repalced my ignition lock with that US12L one so that's how I know the key won't work with the door.

Oh yeah, I got more stories of customer's not knowing what they need or have. I even have stories about customer's stuff I know more about than they did lol. If that company had paid commission on sales I would have never left and I wouldn't have to do anything other than just what I did, help customer's get what they needed. Though to be honest, the commission on that throttle cable I mentioned wouldn't have made up for the effort in involved in doing what needed to be done to get him what he needed, but then again, I am not a custom car shop either. If he had brought in the old cable I could have looked in the back of the catalog and maybe been able to set him up,

I would suggest before you put the carpet back on and after you're done prepping your floor pans you consider some sort of sound editing material as well. I prefer the roll-on elastomeric coating they use on roofs.

Years ago when I got out of the Navy I worked at a parts store for a while. Had a customer coming needed a throttle cable for a Toyota Land Cruiser so I punched it into the computer and it only gave one engine option so I didn't ask the customer what engine he had and I looked up a throttle cable. No listing for his particular year but they showed one for a later model version. So I called our warehouse where they supposedly had the catalogs to see if they had something for his specific vehicle. And their catalog basically told them the same thing but the guy asked me on the phone what engine he had and I told him whatever the computer said that car should have. That's when the customer picked up and said oh I've got a Chevy 350 in it. So I told the guy in the warehouse never mind he's got a Chevy 350. I then asked the customer are you using the original throttle cable. He said I don't know I didn't do the swap I said well I cannot help. And he got somewhat upset that I couldn't help him and I told him look I got no book that tells me what throttle cable to use in a 1967 Toyota Land Cruiser with a Chevy 350 in it. If you were using the original cable I might be able to get one of those but since you don't know and I don't know I can't help. He's like what do I do? I said take the old one out go to the junkyard look around and see if you can find something that'll work and then if you do you can either come here and buy a new one of those or use the junkyard one whatever but right down what it is so you know next time. So yeah it isn't always the part guy or the catalog or the computer sometimes it's the customer

If you are checking a battery state of charge with a voltmeter you would expect to see 2.1 volts per cell on a fully charged battery. For a 6-volt battery you have three cells those are the caps. So 6.3 volts is about what I would expect to see for a fully charged battery that does not have a surface charge. If your charger is only putting out 6.4 volts to charge the battery with then you've got a problem with your charger. Because it should be well above that most likely above seven volts when it's charging.

I don't think that compression readings are bad enough to keep it from running. Let us know how it goes with the charged up battery

How low compression? I've had 50 psi per hole for the last 4 years and it runs fine. I think you've wetted your plugs and killed the spark either get a new set of plugs or clean your old ones really good

All you guys complaining about "the computer" fail to realize that is all most of these places have. There are no catalogs to look up and it is doubtful that will change since no one is putting out catalogs any more, at least not paper ones. When I got out of the military, back in 93, I had a job at a major chain type parts store, they were transitioning from paper to computer and we were told to toss our catalogs. We didn't. That was 30 years ago. Recently, the place I work for stopped shipping paper installation manuals with new machines, they put a QR code on them so the installer can download the PDF. Well, that doesn't work so the installation electrician installs it how they think it should be installed and then I get to have them correct all the mistakes when I show up to commission it. 17 hours doing what is normally a 2 hour job really sucks. Of course, some of those "electricians" out in the oil patch probably can't even spell electrician much less are one.