Sniper

lol, it's a pet peeve of mine when people use breaks when they mean brakes. Guess it's a pet peeve when they do it the other way too. Of course, I have a half dead 9 year old keyboard in a 14 year old laptop and fat fingers, so I typo the heck out of things.

Wow, I used to deal with tubes in the Navy, but we didn't use mechanical vibrators, no need we had AC. So that issue never crossed my mind.

Due to gravity, the top plug in the second picture is the fill, the bottom plug is the drain. 😎 The plug in the first picture, no idea. My 51 doesn't have that one.

My Dad taught me the best thing to do was wear mirrored sunglasses whenever you are inspecting rearends.

Later Mopars don't have a plug like the 8 3/4. My 51's had it

Two different sources of noise. If it's a whine that increases pitch with increased rpm, generator or alternator whine. If it's more of a popping and crackling then it's plugs.

Nope, it it did it wouldn't work. probably the filter capacitors are bad.

That's because it wasn't called GL1 back then. There was no other GL spec, so it was GL by default. Later as GL2-3-4-5 came about then numbers were added, retroactively for GL1. In any case, GL1 seems to be the oil for non synchronized gearboxes,, recently surpassed by MT-1. Since we do have a non synchronized 1st gear, it may still apply.

Ahhhhhhhhh

the shear dynamics in a transmission are different than in a rear axle. Hence the need for a different lube. In a rear axle you get a sliding of gear teeth across each other than does not occur in the transmission. The 51 FSM calls for an Extreme Pressures Hypoid Gear Lubricant, SAE 90 for the rear axle. Whereas for the trans and OD, it calls for SAE 80 Gear Lubricant. Back then it was GL1, there was no other choice,

Chrysler has used the same pilot bushing from the 20's thru the 80's. 53298 is the part number. Buy a parts manual when you get your pilot bushing.

I am not going to say Ford Aerostar Springs LOL I said I put on my 51 or like 997 lb per inch? I just looked the specs up the other day somebody asked me about the Aerostar Springs which I'm not saying LOL

Well if you go the scare bird route and use the one piece brake rotor and hub assembly from the a body FM and J bodies that has the proper Hub diameter for our Wheels

Just remember in the stock configuration the centering ring on the stock Hub is what centers the wheel. I would modify the rotor to fit properly if it were up to me.

How many times do you want to pull the transmission? Once with a good throwout bearing twice or maybe more with the noisy one?

I don't think you know what a scrub line is? Basically, if you run a string fromt eh bottom of a rim to the other rim bottoms nothing on the car should hang below that. This is so that if you get a flat nothing digs in and puts you out of control. As high up as that spindle is sitting tells me your chassis is going to be hanging down low.

Runtz isn't a dropping resistor, more like a voltage regulator. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/runtz-resistors-do-they-burn-out.948371/ Not sure where you ordered form, Speedway shows $12.40 for shipping, plus taxes of course. Laughably enough, if you order from Speedway via Ebay, shipping is a bit cheaper

I love these types of discussions, thanks for starting this one Loren.

Both are on the shelf at my local hardware store.

Same deal for the A833, which a broomstick is the perfect diameter. Not sure what diameter you need though,, going to be close the counter shaft diameter.

I did not have any ignition issues when I converted my 51 to 12 negative ground. But I do run an electrical fuel pump either. Since I don't know what pump you are running I can't say whether it's a wiring issue or the pump isn't compatible with negative ground. Regardless, a 6v fuel pump will probably need changed to one designed to run on 12v. I used the alternator and regulator setup from an 87 Dodge Diplomat, here's how I mounted the alternator. http://www.yourolddad.com/12-volt-conversion You will need 12v bulbs, they do not care about polarity. Unless you are running LEDs. The heater fan needed addressed, my old one was falling apart so I found a 122 one that worked fine. http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor Wipers were an issue, not sure if those gold resistors work well or not. I built a current limiter to handle that for me. My ignition is stock 51 Plymouth EXCEPT for the coil, ballast resistor and the starter relay. I used the coil and ballast resistor from a later model 12v MoPar, such as my 65 Cuda. I mimicked the ignition system of a 12v points type mopar like my 65 Cuda. In this setup 12v, in run, goes to one side of the ballast resistor and the other side goes to the coil positive terminal. In start 12v needs to be fed directly to the positive terminal of the coil. If you use the relay I linked it has a 4th terminal, labeled I that provides 12vv when in start, run a wire from there to ether the coil positive terminal or the coil side of the ballast connection. If you use a coil that does not need a ballast resistor, like your link, then ignore any ballast mention in my write up.

Too much roughage cracked the pipe

Good luck keeping it 12v positive ground. Not sure why you want to do that. As for the rest of the stuff, some nice to have, some not needed/ That fuel gauge converter you link? Too expensive and you only have one gauge that cares, the fuel level. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Voltage-Reducer,2374.html Here's a clue any parts place that has VIntage in it's name, will charge you a lot for the privilege. Not near as much as MoParPro, but still. Those 12v to 6v reducers? https://us.rs-online.com/product/arcol/hs100-2r-f/71432076/ That solenoid? I used 1M1030, under $10 at rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wve,1M1030,starter+solenoid,4188

Best gasket shows .052" compressed for the 523C gasket https://bestgasket.com/head-gasket-bore-thickness/

Probably wouldn't hurt to put some lock specific lube in the tumbler assembly.