Sam Buchanan

Nick, my car seems to be happy without a functional heat riser. However, I don't know if this is of consequence in a colder clime such as Michigan. I'm sure more experienced members will chime in with opinions.

I've found that a few drops of oil on the flaring tool really improves the operation.

Wonder if the new tubing is metric.......

I think the options will be stainless or mild steel.

That's what I'm talking about! Of course your cover is blown now.

Hmmmm....the clock opening minus the delete plate has pretty nice borders...gonna have to give this some thought. Already snagged a good photo of a P15 clock. ?

I was pretty sure this was fairly common.....now to find a P15 clock with a dead movement (or no movement).....at a reasonable price.

Ok...I have to ask.....has any one considered converting a clock to a AA-powered quartz movement?

I don't recall the particulars but I suspect there was some state historical grant money involved. Upkeep is by our local city employees. Our town is big on historical districts, lots of interest in this sort of thing. We still have a for-real downtown square with a 1900 courthouse that is the site of several events and a couple of big car shows. Here is another shot showing the entire building:

You know how it is....gotta fill the tank with That Good Gulf Gasoline on the way back to the house.......price was only 19 cents/gallon...... The back story----several years ago the historical buffs in our town decided to save one of the oldest gas stations in the state of Alabama instead of seeing it demolished. It has been restored and is a favorite site for old car photos.

I'm assuming you have carefully set the idle mixture.......

There is no need for the steel tube you fabbed.....just run rubber hose all the way to the pump. Back the brass reverse flair fitting out of the pump and replace it with a barbed fitting.

It may be just the way the light is falling on the hose....but is the hose too large for the steel tubing? Is the hose just slipped over the 90? You want the proper sizing here to prevent an air leak that could kill the ability of the pump to pull a vacuum. The 90* fitting isn''t doing you any favors...can it be exchanged for a straight fitting so you will have a straighter shot to the pump? You can get a reverse flare fitting for the 90 that can then be adapted to a barb for the hose. Or...just buy the correct pre-made hose from Bernbaum.

Welcome to the community! Many of us have been at the 90% done....90% to go stage......

Yep, I was impressed with how good the joints look on my car, no apparent wear. I should be able to replace a boot quicker next time....will only be a two pound chunk of gov't cheese.... ?

Man....that five pound chunk of government cheese is a load! I got one boot installed but my bathroom habits may need a couple of days to recover....... I was going to replace both boots but the other one isn't split and I can service the u-joint with it in place. When it splits it may be time for a new driveshaft with modern u-joints.....

You were mis-informed.....here is the device's documentation: https://tinytach.com/pdf/Tiny2AInstructions11263.pdf The tach is powered by an internal battery so it doesn't matter what voltage or polarity is used on the vehicle or if the vehicle even has an electrical system. The only connection to the vehicle is the sensor wire that is wrapped around a spark plug lead. The downside is when the internal battery dies the tach has to be replaced. I'm not selling or promoting this tach, only offered it as a potential alternative if traditional appearance isn't needed or if having difficulty getting a traditional tach to work properly.

Looks like Nick is out ahead of us on this. My boots arrived today from Bernbaum after going AWOL in shipping for a few days. There have been a couple of posts suggesting we may be getting NOS boots so I'm gonna post a photo of what I received: There is nothing here to make me think these boots are thirty years old. They look, feel, and smell fresh and the clamps look brand new. I hope they have a happy, long service life. Nick, I intend to use Valvoline high temp grease in the joints: Here's hoping my boots survive the installation attempts!

This may be similar to what you recall....found this on another forum:

Man...that brings back memories of the '56 Savoy my dad bought new (and I learned how to drive in!). As a child I would sit in the front seat and the speaker was "my steering wheel". We didn't know anything about seat belts in those days.....my mom's arm was the child restraint system if we had to stop quickly.

Positive thinking. ? One of the eBay vendors is listing "brand new" boots so somebody must be repopping them. Should know soon.

The rubber boots got delayed, should be here tomorrow and I expect them to be new production. I don't have any leather boots....not for universal joints, anyway.... I considered converting to new-style U-joints but the originals are tight and look very good. I can install several boots for less than what a new driveshaft would cost.

Beware of the Chinese knockoffs.......

If aesthetics are not a priority, just an rpm readout, the Tiny Tach might be an option. It just needs to have a sensor lead wrapped around a spark plug lead. https://tinytach.com/gasoline-tinytach I used one of these tachs on a 1/2 VW engine that had a magneto and it worked nicely.

Rubber boots from Bernbaum will be arriving today.