Sam Buchanan

What info is included on a Build Card? Just trying to decide if it is worth $55 to request one for my P15. Anyone have a scan of a build card they can share with us to show us what it looks like? Merry Christmas!

Nick, you are on the road to being a mechanic, not just a parts assembler. Proud of you.

Excellent......thanks! Instead of plumbing the defrost I might run a hose to the driver footwell. Any ideas on whether this was a dealer install or maybe an accessory item?

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https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

My car is 6v.

If you are not concerned about keeping the car "original" an internally regulated (one wire) alternator is a great upgrade and will solve any genny or regulator problems. The alternator on my '48 will bring the ammeter needle back to near zero in less than a minute at idle after a cold start. Also, go ahead and install the proper size battery cables if the ones you have are smaller than the ones in the photo.

Thank you! Can you take a photo for me or provide a link to a description of this heater? I can fabricate attachments and hoses, just wondering if there should be some sort of control or valve for the defrost outlet. I don't have any heater/defroster controls in the dash panel.

For the engine to suddenly die it must be a problem with either fuel or fire. My first thought would be to verify spark is occurring at the correction time. Most likely a simple fix (the points)....then back to enjoying your ride!

Am I correct in assuming the only reason for a bypass is to get the heater up to temp quicker? Nick, in regard to your question about the heaters in our old cars.....mine has an under-dash heater that I assume was a dealer install. It has a variable speed fan (6v) and does an excellent job of heating the interior. I suspect it would make the front seat passenger uncomfortable when running wild open. I would appreciate some of our experienced members providing me background info on this particular heater.

Be sure you attach the generator bracket to the water pump before you add coolant.....that bolt extends into the water jacket. You will need to remove the fan and pulley to get that bolt out. Or......you could do what I did after painting myself into this corner.....cut a notch in the bracket hole so it can be installed without removing the bolt. The bracket is under compression so a notch will not compromise its function. P.S. I inserted a photo in my earlier post showing the thermostat housing and elbow.

Nick, Bernbaum has the thermostat housing and bypass elbow: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-cooling.aspx Housing; J-135 ($90...ouch....maybe someone can send you a used one!) Elbow; J-160 (you want a new one, these things tend to clog, mine crumbled when I removed it) Here is how if fits together on my '48 (photo taken before new battery cables): The engine looks great!

Heacock Classic is the agency I've used for about 15 years---the Plymouth and VW are insured with an American Modern policy. If memory serves me they like to see less than 3500 miles per year. I found the rates to be very competitive and the policies are for agreed value. https://heacockclassic.com/

Here is the charger I purchased after the 6v P15 arrived in my shop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756Q88J5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has automatic voltage sensing, polarity protection and switching to trickle mode. The reason you may find warnings about the continual use of trickle chargers is because of the unusual characteristics of AGM batteries. These are the ventless Odyssey and such batteries that don't have liquid acid. Those batteries hold a charge for a very long time without charging and their lifetime can be shortened by continual charging with anything other than specialized chargers. The charger I have really works nicely but I haven't used it after I installed an alternator. The alternator keeps the battery fully charged even with short trips with the lights on.

In the process of getting my P15 back on the road after a five-year hibernation I put the pushrod in the "winter (rich)" hole in the pump arm. The car runs so well even in 90-100* temps that I just leave it there. It could be that the accelerator pump in my carb is a little weak and the aggressive setting makes up for it.

Yep, it's a generational thing. The old farts on the forum think you should roll up your sleeves and crawl under your car on a dark, rainy night when it decides to leave you stranded. This old fart just places a call using the AAA phone app and they know exactly where you are within seconds......then ask you which shop you want the car towed to, or your home. They already know where you live and they know the GPS coordinates of the shops in town. They'll even ask if they need to arrange a rental car for you. If you want to carry some stuff in the trunk of the car.....pack some snacks and a couple of Snapples so you can pass the time until the flatbed arrives....the times...they are a'changin'........ ?

A year's worth of AAA membership with towing privileges cost less than sourcing and rebuilding a distributor...........that flatbed tow truck will have powerful flood lights on it...... I used the AAA "free tow" one time before I decided to upgrade to the electric fuel pump, more than paid me back for the membership. Nick, have your Dad include the AAA membership in your birthday bonus each year! ?

Is converting to an electric pump not an option? Seems like that would be far more reliable than using a mongrel mechanical pump.....

To accommodate the pointed end of the puller, select a bolt that has a diameter slightly smaller than the bore in the center of the steering column. Drill a "dimple" into the center of the head of the bolt and drop the bolt into the column. Now you have a stable base for the puller and you can really crank down on the puller without it trying to walk away from the center of the column. The key is to keep the puller straight so all the pressure generated by the puller can be applied to the steering wheel. If the puller begins to lean to one side you are losing the mechanical advantage of the puller.

I'm with you, Nick, that bare head with the new bolts looks like a rare piece of expensive antique jewelry. Gorgeous! But it's a moot point now, you will have a beautiful engine that meets the approval of the artistic non-sophisticates in the group. ?

I've been running Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in the VW Beetle for many years. It is a high-zinc lubricant (I use straight 30W). I hadn't thought about using it in the P15 but will take it under consideration. Nick....sorry about the thread creep! ? https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10W-30-VR1-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FMK2

A photo of how you have the puller set up on the steering column would be helpful....can't tell much from the photo you provided.

That engine should last forever! I really like the clear-coat idea. Enjoy!

Do not try to yank the wheel off by pulling on the steering wheel rim! You will be sad when you destroy the wheel...... Yes, you need a puller. Read the threads about pulling the steering wheel to get the big picture of the process. If you are fortunate the wheel will pop off the shaft once you start persuading it with the puller. I used a generic puller like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-45500-Harmonic-Balancer-Puller/352774075278?epid=9028573416&hash=item5222f9338e:g:avAAAOSwxMNdazxy Instead of putting the pointy end of the puller into the steering shaft, drop a bolt into the shaft so the puller can push against the bolt head instead of damaging the threaded end of the shaft.

"Son, are you sure you can get this back together?" ? Might as well go with a total rebuild.....eat the elephant one bite at a time......everything will be OK....and enjoy your new transmission!