Sam Buchanan

Shouldn't be too hard.....all you have is two barrels....... The ol' flathead has a really cool chuckle with the straight pipe.

Excellent! I had decided, after some measurements, the flange wouldn't be a factor but good to see confirmation. I'm concerned that me trying to remove the flange might incur damage to the sleeve.....

Thank you. Did you leave the flange on the Speedi-Sleeve?

Speedi-Sleeve for the pulley hub is due to arrive soon. New seal is in place in the timing cover and new gasket has been stuck to the cover with Permatex #2. To get ready for the seal the deep groove in the hub has been filled with JB Weld so the sleeve will have a consistent base:

You know you've achieved perfection in design, not when you have nothing more to add, but when you have nothing more to take away. --Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Can you get all that stuff replaced in time to get to work? ?

You are still way over-thinking this. One battery with an alternator is all your car needs. Also, don't underestimate the value of installing proper battery and starter cables....they will be worth more than the second battery......

Pretty sure he meant he doesn't use the non-ethanol fuel. Why are you adding lead to your fuel?

If you want to be prepared for anything........get an AAA membership with free jump starting and/or towing.......

I'm not familiar with a dual system like you are describing (except in aviation and that is a different animal) so can't exercise judgment on it. However.....I'm wondering why it is needed. With a healthy conventional charging system, the proper batter cables and a starter that isn't clapped out you should have a reliable starts. My preference is the single-wire alternator (no external regulator to go bad) since you get full charging even at idle and the 6v 65a alternator on my P15 keeps the battery hot at all times. After installing new cables the car is a very reliable starter hot or cold.

That is exactly what I wanted to hear.....thanks!

This is the one you want: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Shop-Manual-1946-1947-1948-1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-1954-Repair-Service/401179605952?hash=item5d682afbc0:g:pvoAAMXQAx9RMNYu

From the Plymouth 1946-54 manual:

Correct. I have tires that are slightly wider than what was delivered when the car was new and wouldn't want to reduce fender clearance by very much.

You are sure the drain cock is not leaking around the threads?

Questions: Did this kit increase the track any? Which master cylinder are you using? Thanks!

Three common options: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=64 http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html http://rustyhope.com/site/mopar-discbrakes/ Many, many, many threads in the forum archives on this subject, the Search engine is your friend. Here is a thread that started a couple days ago: https://p15-d24.com/topic/51853-im-ready-to-buy-disc-brakes-and-master-cylinder/

Welcome to the community! You will find many experienced MoPar resources on this forum that can most likely answer any questions you have. Below is a file of over 70 bookmarks for parts sources I have accumulated over the past year as I have put my '48 Plymouth back on the road. The links at the top of the list are the most commonly used parts suppliers, as you work down the list the links become more specific. Some of these bookmarks are specific to my car but most are generic for old MoPars. Hope this helps. P15-parts-bookmarks.rtf

You can easily build a brake adjustment tool (here is my thread on making and using the tool):

Thank you for the suggestion. We are talking about cosmetic touchup, not structural, I don't think anything that is done on the perimeter of the damper will add to its lifetime. I'm gonna run the old damper as is since it still feels solid and it hasn't rotated. Its patina matches the rest of the engine.

Got the quote for balancer overhaul from Damper Doctor in Redding, CA. $275 with 2-3 days in the shop. I'm gonna pass but this might be useful info for others.

From the For Whatever It's Worth dept: A took another step to hopefully reduce heat-soak when I replumbed the car with the electric fuel pump. The new fuel line was run up and across the firewall, the rational was to keep the line away from the exhaust manifold. Under-hood temps may be higher that far up in the compartment but I speculated that the net result would be the line seeing lower temps. As a bonus the firewall line sure was a lot easier than snaking a new line around and under the front of the frame. Is there a safety issue with having the line above the engine? Don't know, but the line is new, easily inspected and secured with cushioned clamps.

You might be right but without tuft testing who knows how the air moves in the engine compartment. My thinking was the slight curve would direct flow from the radiator toward the carb bowl and reduce stagnation......but that is just a guess....probably doesn't make any difference either way.

Dale Manufacturing link doesn't work, wonder if they are still in business.

Sounds like a plan except for the epoxy part. I'm thinking black RTV to seal the exposed rubber because I don't want to inhibit the flexibility of the rubber and lose the damper qualities. Thank you for the suggestions.