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I am actually an old newby. I joined the P15 D24 forum in 2016, I never posted and only browsed. Lately I have asked a question or two and was asked why don't you post a picture. Well to be honest, I didn't know how. My grand daughter gave me a lesson and now I am going to try. This is my Plymouth which I have owned for twenty five years. I had a 41 Plymouth when I was 14 and traded it for a 47 when I was 17. Traded it when I was 21 but always wished I hadn't, Forty one years later I located another 47 and bought it. It is the one in the picture. Her nickname is Rosy. Rosy and I have spent many hours together. Her back wheel wobbles a little and she leaks some, but we all do some as we get older. In the 21 years between the 47's I restored a 1922 Dodge coupe, a 1926 Ford roadster, and owned a Plymouth pick up. I enjoy the P15 D24 page.

I agree with you Frank. It's like a bunch of friendly, knowledgeable old car folks turned up in your shed to help you through an issue that has you stumped. Love it! You are all a great bunch of people. Long may it continue. ???

Hi All from New Zealand. First post but a several times browser. Thought I should make myself known. I am a 60+ year old dairy farmer from nz. I have been the owner of a 1938 Dodge D9 sedan since buying it off my grandfather Alick in 1981. He had bought it new in 1938 and decided to stop driving and tender the vehicle so he wouldn't be tempted to change his mind. It was drivable, which I enjoyed for a couple of years and then started a what has come to be 35 year project of putting it back to a pretty new condition. It sat around in bits for many years as marriage, family, cows, farming and numerous interrelated projects all came before my old car disease. A restart to the project began in earnest in 2006 when I pulled out the detached and disassembled body from my workshop and took it to a friend who had a small local garage and panel shop. We agreed that his old timer panel man would start and continue the panel repairs when he had quiet periods and I had a few dollars spare. Fast forward nearly 15 years and here we are. At times it sat with no progress as his business ebbed and flowed and the same with my and my wife's farming business. It has ended up a bigger project than I ever imagined but I have enjoyed the ride. Heaps of time sourcing parts here and overseas and meeting lots of old car folks in the process. It will be a complete rebuild but not concours at all. I have tried to keep it period correct as much as possible but haven't gone to the extent of original bolts,nuts etc. Also the export D9 didn't have two taillights, a radio, a clock or two wipers. It was a pretty basic car. I have found these items and restored them all to give it a little more detail. Started the rebuilt motor for the first time since disassembly many years ago last September. Great moment!!! Hope to be finished in a month or two......thought that a few times over the years though. Lockdown has slowed things too. Anyway, just thought I should make myself known. Hope you are all doing ok in this current situation. Best wishes to the old car folks out there.

Speaking of condensers, my 1954 Motors Manual does a good job explaining the results of using improper condensers. Over capacity or under capacity, versus just-right. The condenser is very important as it plays a key role in coil saturation time and anti-arcing at the points. Sharp, quick, precise, electron flow-cut off makes for a stronger, crisper well-timed spark at the plug tip. As mentioned it also assists with a quicker recharge time of the coil. 3000 rpm engine speed at 55 mph means the coils gets nano-seconds to fully recharge. Pretty important. The condenser, sometimes an overlooked part that can easily make the difference between being stranded roadside or not.

My boys bought me a steel frame creeper with an adjustable head rest. I hadn't had one in years as they are a real pain getting on one. Anyhow I was in the stage of going all around and tightening bolts and nuts under my near finished '37 Chevy. I got under the car and adjusted the headrest and tightened every visible bolt especially on the dual exhaust. Pretty neat riding around under there. I finished and pushed all the tools to the side. I, then, grabbed a muffler and gave myself a ride to the back. It went well until my forehead smacked the differential housing full blast. Make a note to lower the head rest before sailing out from under a car

Well....the timing is uncanny. Yesterday afternoon I modified some wiring on the TR6 and when I turned the switch to test the mod smoke immediately escaped the wiring. LOTS of smoke.....kept on smoking even after I quickly shut everything down....filled the shop. A single wire must have been glowing red-hot for a few seconds and the vinyl insulation on the wire we buy at the local parts store quickly turns into thick smoke. There wasn't anything wrong with my mod but apparently the wire got pinched against ground in the process of putting things back together. Unfortunately, the British decided the radio supply shouldn't be fused (Lucas was the low bidder after all....) a point I had not yet determined. It is common knowledge in the aviation community to NEVER put this wire in an aircraft and I now have first-hand knowledge of why we don't. I rewired that portion of the car to put that circuit on a fuse so the smoke wouldn't have a chance to escape again. Smoke is hard to put back after it gets out. If I was building a new harness I would use the good stuff, it doesn't cost that much more. The insulation is Tefzel which doesn't turn to smoke and the wire is tinned copper. Here is one source: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/unshieldlwire.php This is what you use if you want to build the best harness possible.

wait a minute..Am I see double?

Nice, Billy. Im glad you gave your GF a name. shes a sweetie for sure!

Sometimes it is easier to do a google search with all your parameters. Very often the most relevant links send you to the P15\D24 forum, and you just click on the link.

Beautiful Vert. Wow you guys knocked it out of the park! Good job, may I also add that after the wires are either routed properly or replaced you may still not fire due to the junky chinese capacitors that are being sold these days.

T112 is a motor from a Canadian truck around 1940-41 and they are 25 inches long. Used in the Dodge 1/2 ton DC1

P255/60R15's fit on those cop car rims in the back of my 51 with plenty of room. Up front with those tires the backspacing is too deep, the sidewall hits the upper control arm outer pivot bolt on a turn to lock. Some test fitting of that setup http://www.yourolddad.com/tires

When I lived 350 miles closer to the Canadian polar ice cap, my vehicle had 3 plugs. 1. Block/coolant heater 2. Battery blanket heater 3. Oil pan heater. Siliconed in place on flat bottom of oil pan. When it snowed, the hood of my car was warm enough to keep the snow melted. Electricity just comes from a plug-in, right?

Further to what keith just said, I enlarged the photo you posted of your distributor innards ,it appears to me that the points will never show open, ( spark occurs when they open),because there appears to be a short circuit where that condenser is attached to the movable contact and the jumper wire (stationary contact)...Which is chassis ground.

That's a pretty car right there..

If you order new tune up parts remember to provide the distributor number to whoever you get them from as there are differences over the years. I had a problem before I found that out. Some caps are taller than others it seems and creates a large gap from the rotor to the cap contacts.

This may just be a personal bais of mine,but if the plugs are Champion,throw them at someone you don't like,and replace them with practically any other brand. I mostly use AC ,but that is primarily for convenience. I am not saying they are better than any plug except for Champion. I will hurt anyone that ever puts a Champion plug in any of my cars. I am serious about this. BTW,I want to congradulate you on having the courage to get rid of the Chevy and enter the world of Mopar. Not only that,but you jumped in with both feet by buying a very rare Mopar on top of it. I like hot rods more than restored cars,but cars like your 39 convertible are too rare to modify and I hope you try to keep it reasonably stock. Do what you have to do to make it safe and reliable,and then just enjoy the damn thing.

I am with sniper, I find myself resisting the urge on price but, not on the year or size. don't list your 1 ton as a 3 ton or your 53 as a 48! I will call you out on it ? that said, I will also take advantage of you not knowing what you have... LOL

I dearly love the MoPars I have and don't want to rile anyone on the forum, but - the piece of trim I was referring to in the previous post belongs to the rear quarter on my '50 Meteor coupe, (the grille centre is a '49)..

Will do. It will be a while yet. Still getting the engine and trans situated. Ordered a swap pan for the LS because the truck pan is too deep. Once that’s in place I’ll start mocking up steering mounts.

recently I drew a diagram for a rear fuel tank bracket .... feel free to share it.

Your restore is absolutely fantastic! And fascinating. I'm always amazed at what levels of work people are capable of. What an inspiration! Great work ?

some guys also use their forehead to pound in nails....doesn’t mean the rest of us that found the hammer are doing it the wrong way ? be great to see the YJ set-up!

Go ahead and flex those muscles. I think you're safe, anyway.. Unless someone is already in West Texas it takes a week to get there!! And that's starting from Dallas!?