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Curiosity got the better of me. I went out to my fargo with original wiring and the connector is clearly marked. Keep in mind,drive would be bright and pass be dim.

Question... on this 50 special deluxe, Any problem swapping the dual action fuel pump for a single? Anyone know if the pump arm is the same? I won't be needing the vacuum assistance, I have 47 Chrysler electric wiper set on the way. I've been working on this with a friend in weekends. I've got a lot of info lurking here. Thank you all! So far she's had done; Replace entire brake system sans master cylinder (Vette type on the way) Split fuel tank and deleted the built in pickup filter. Installed inline filters. All new rubber hoses, belts,lines. Electronic ignition installed, timed Rebuilt carb Freed up and cleaned and lubed all switches and linkages and wiring connectors Flushed heater core Rebuilt heater box and blend doors Replaced thermostat Oil pan gasket Pinion seal All lube Freed a stuck ring New exhaust Put about 100 miles on her so far ran great until the fuel pump gave out. Everything is working. 28k on her, 4th owner. This weekend, fuel pump,master cylinder, LED headlights, taillights and guage lights. Electric wipers and possibly a yf knockoff carb install ( idle orifice tube is worn at the tip and can't be snugged without cutting off the idle circuit, no way to get a replacement that I know of) Near future Ac installation which I'd love to share here, I have a few unique ways to overcome the issues of doing this on a 6v system. Paint job and minor body work.

When I looked inside my P15's tank and the whole thing looked like alien life forms had taken up residence I yanked the tank and put in a new one....no point trying to work with that mess....72 years is long enough for one tank..... ?

Took a look at the sender today (Kanter) and it appears that is where fuel has been leaking. Mixed up a small batch of Flamemaster aircraft tank sealant and applied a glob over each pop rivet after scuffing with Scotchbrite and cleaning with acetone. That stuff will stick to anything! But I was surprised to find the terminal studs loose.....that could also cause leaks. Tightened the base nuts and reconnected everything, we'll see if that stops the leakage.

No problems switching from FP with vacuum assist to standard, arms are same style, etc. DJ

I did get it, I think the trick was to drag the bench seat out of the bed and put it in the cab and sit down and get comfortable. Then work it back and forth. And it just popped out .... looks like it is the first time has ever been removed. Now is the time to evaluate pulling the wheel ... I do not have proper puller for it. I think I will run a classified want add looking for a wheel in better condition ... technically I can still use this one and repair the cracks, it just wont look as good as it did when new. So I need to research the forum and look for the best puller for the job, then search for the tool. For now I have some pb oil on it soaking.

how about the 1948 - 1949 MTSC library on these sites:: My Mopar.com or the Imperialclub.com , On the subjet of the transmission they have quite a few sessions than you can watch and read,, it does not matter if it 6 volts or 12 volts for the diagnostic. But a 6 volts solenoid on a 12v system may overheat with long period of being energized?? I don't know, it will work for some times ,, but how long,,?? I'm sure there are a lot of members that did the convertion to 12 volts that can be better than me!! lol Topic http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=451

Wndered what this popped up. Also it wouldnice to know how this conversion is working 8 years down the road. Wonder how he did in those races?

That's a typical Dodge manufactured standard single speed rear axle housing and differential. Ratio could be eithet a 5.6, 6.2 or 6.8 That number is stamped on the driver's side (left) on the differential case. Look for it on the bolt mounting flange ...1/2 way up.

This is almost certainly a sign that you have either got a blown head gasket or a crack.

Yeah, I think so. I'd like to leave the work the previous owner did to the car and work from there. I'm just about convinced to leave the Fluid Coupling and just go with the standard 3 speed manual that was in the Dodge Fluid Drive cars. Seems like they are cheap and plentiful plus it would basically be a bolt in. Since I'm pulling the motor and trans to fix all the oil leaks, I hate to put the Gyromatic back in without knowing if I can get it to work right. It would suck to have to pull it again if I cant get it worked out.

Thought would do a quick update. So far the zirk fittings are very easy to remove. I did find the upper king pin on passenger side, I had to poke with wire, clean and spray and clean some more. It would not take grease. Sadly that kingpin has a very small amount of play. 3-5 thousands. Never did check again after greasing it. I do not think that fitting had been getting grease during normal maintenance. The existing grease was all dried up in it. For this one issue, has been well worth the effort to pull out all the zirk's. With that said, all the other joints I have pulled out the zirks and poked with a wire, and the grease inside seems quite usable, I bought 10 new zirks and so far replace 3 or 4. I do have the roughness isolated to the bearing under the steering wheel. I can hear the rough sound coming from the cab and it is synchronized with what I feel with my hands. So far cant get the horn button to pop off, soaked it with wd-40 over night, can push down and rotate left and right, just not pop out ... maybe today.

Wow! What a small world!!

Like a decal? That’s worth looking into.... original one looks like it’s etched. after I posted this, I contacted https://www.nostalgicreflections.com/auto4a.html For a “budget estimate” they offered one at $295. (Plus shipping) and then contacted me 5 months later to tell me it was done. I reminded him, it was only a “budget estimate”..... ?

I thought I'd update my disc brake and split master cylinder install progress just in case anyone is interested? Finished bending brake lines needed for the conversion today. I'm using a copper / nickel alloy called NiCopp. Never used it before. I've read it meets oem safety standards and has been used for many years on European cars. I wish I knew about this before. Wow! Is this stuff way better to work with than steel or stainless. Bends and flares like a dream. That said, fabricating brake lines is still a royal pain. Laying on the cold concrete floor wasn't much fun either. Anyhow, I wouldn't refuse any constructive criticism, if any experts out there see something I've missed? Next thing to do is get the brake hoses and mount to the calipers.

Flywheel related bolts use loctite. its also considered an anti-sieze. i use anti-sieze on manifold bolts. sparingly. light oil on clean head bolts. Except the ones that enter water jacket. Sealant. anti-sieze and loctite are both thread sealants.

: Almost stock flattie. Manifold and block ports gasket matched and ports cleaned up a bit. Head milled a bunch, then the chamber modified around the valve and spark plug area. Wound up at about 8.9: 1 ratio. Stock intake modified to accept a small two barrel Carter BB2 originally on a 273 V8.

I wrestled with that decision and ultimately it came down to the A833 I'm using. #2 selection was a non-electronic version of the A500. Essentially an A904 with OD added. 518 was third choice. Some version of an OD was mandatory in my mind as I wanted to retain the ability to pull a trailer (lower rear gears) and have good acceleration in traffic yet cruise at a lower rpm. The 500 smaller, lighter, uses slightly less HP to operate and is strong enough for my use. If I needed a stronger auto it would have been the 518. In the end, I decided to go with a manual and chose the A833 over the more popular T5. Tough trans and it's Mopar.

New NAPA points and condenser $22. Got it started tonight ? Turns out the previous owner had the wrong points, condenser and it was 180deg out of time..... Need to “fine tune it” next and then move on to the brakes stay tuned......