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Someone has to say it so I will. Next time. you get up to 15MPH try shifting into second gear. ?

Thanks for the update, I hope that does solve it. BTW - if it is a dirt issue, you may find you have to clean the bowl of your carburetor as well.

Plastigauge results can be skewed by different techniques. Was the engine horizontal upside down in a stand? If so the results should be dead on. If not, one has to shim adjacent bearings to insure the shaft is fully seated in the top half. Otherwise the weight of the shaft is being supported on the gauge A bore gauge can be tilted, not exactly in line with the main bore and slightly skew the results also. That , and the machinist's 'feel' for the mics on the shaft measurement can in a slight difference. My grandson is a machinist and he and I often differ by .0005-6 due to 'drag feel' when tightening the mics. But, even if the bore gauge clearances are accurate, they wouldn't bother me at all. The rule of thumb for years was about .001 clearance per inch of diameter . And, that was newly assembled, not a wear limit.

Mmcdowel, I can understand your frustration. Altho’, I can tell you’re much more patient/tolerant than I am, as I would’ve tossed in the towel on that process after the first year. Warmest regards to you . . .

You have to go to the State Capitol once a year and fill out a form....pay $50 (cash only) and they issue you a sticker for the inside of your windshield. You keep your regular plate in the trunk and you can then display your antique one. After a decade or so I got tired of making that trip (and having to take off work to do it). Oh....and this doesn't take the place of renewing your regular license tag each year. You have to do that too, but at least you can do that by mail.

My dad was the always-in-a-hurry type. He told me once of the time he was driving with his father, my grandfather. Grampa took off, and then shifted from first to second. Dad suggested that he shift into third. Grampa responded, "I'm going fast enough."

It seems funny that there is a discontinuation of the bead roll to accommodate the lube tube and its at 90° not vertical.

kencombs... IMO is on the money. I would be happy with either. My flathead mains always seem to end up around .002" using bore gauges on my rebuilds..

His son sent me his phone number and I will call him later today.

On the back of your speedometer you should find a lubrication port. The one in the photo was not installed correctly at the factory. It should be pointing upwards as gravity makes it work. A couple of drops of light machine oil may get you up to speed.

First thing to do is clean and lube the cable. Pull I off the back of the speedometer. Protect your interior with plastic or drop cloth. Pull the worm out. It will be covered with oil and crud so act accordingly. Clean with carb or brake cleaner, re lube with graphite based lube and reinsert. Needle might be dirty and dragging,you might want to try to pull a dash light bulb and blast some very low pressure compressed air toward the base of the needle. The cable turns a magnet, the needle has a disc that follows the magnetic field against a spring. If the disc and spring get dusty, it can cause more friction then the magnet can over come.

I believe you may have been correct ! I dropped the tank this evening and found dirt in tank. The inside of tank is shiny and appears rust free. When I drained the last of the gas the dirt appeared to come with it. I will flush tank tomorrow and reinstall. Thank you again! I will keep you posted!

I had a similar problem with an old Plymouth many, many years ago when I was a snot-nosed kid in hi-school. I’d pour water on the fuel pump when it vapor-locked in the driveway while in the driveway (I called that car the “vapor-lock king”), and then it’d fire right up. Eventually I moved the fuel line from the tank, and the one from the fuel pump to the carburetor, further from the engine, and took some old rubber hose, split it, put it around the now-rerouted fuel lines, and held it in place with bailing wire. Pretty—it wasn’t!!! Effective—it was!!!

Could also be rust or other sediment in your gas tank clogging the pickup when under suction and then releasing back into the tank once parked. Thus unclogging itself until started and running again for a while.

Well that sure sounds like a consensus. Thanks ya'll. Probably not a labor of love, more like a labor of glove! Plymouthy: yeah, headlights. Likely expensive. Kencombs: looked, not a chance. RobertKB: Yeah, figured about 1000 for all new interior with a metal given a spray acid wash just prior. With resell prices all over the map I'd have to go with the lowish ones at $4k so that's 25% before purchase and brakes. Then, there is sheet metal. Wiring? JBNeal: yeah, brakes are already shot. might be worth it to tap it with a road flare though ? Frank/Plymouthy: Engine purrs like a kitten. The one thing that wouldn't need changing. Flatie: My dad had one on the farm too when we were real young. (Imaging five boys that just wanted to push the buttons on the transmission). Brent: Oops. Concerned indeed. Perhaps blinders so he can't see it. P.S. The shop owner where this is won't even move it around the lot any more. Says his uniform already stinks from driving it twice in the lot to park it.

Last year I replaced all the windows in my house with those expensive, double-pane, energy-efficient kind. Today, I got a call from Home Depot who installed them. The caller complained that the work had been completed a year ago and I still hadn't paid for them. Helloooo,.......... just because I'm a Senior Citizen doesn't mean that I am automatically mentally challenged. So, I told him just what his fast-talking sales guy told me last year --that these windows would pay for themselves in a year--- Hellooooo? - It's been a year, so they're paid for, I told him. There was only silence at the other end of the line, so I finally hung up. He never called back. I bet he felt like an idiot.

Brass plugs are better in the long run especially the hidden ones at the front and rear of the block. I don't have the Dorman part number handy.

Those extended periods of silence makes me think cell phones should go "Click" when the caller hangs up. I've noticed more often I end up just talking to my hand. Whatever happened to "thanks, goodbye."

Why not take your old one to a local starter and alternator repair shop and have them fix it? The money stays local,and you make a contact.

85 Tb atm1500va/1000watt ups1 gig switch2 cable modems NVR system with 6 1440p camera Running on cat6a

Here is a set of ignition wrenches size 5/32 to 3/8 by Craftsman . I have had this set for 54 years and have never used some of them but others have come in handy .

Think small:

I had these old tools turn up at my shed last week. Anybody seen something like these before? The one on top looks like an old antique pipe wrench. The smaller syringe-like tool on the bottom has a leather plunger inside and is well coated in oil.

Salt rock, yes but used ACE Prep and Prime first. After a safety check on a lift and a few adjustments, my truck passed the pre BBQ road test. The drive is a 35 mile drive from 300' above sea level to 6500' which is a good pull. Temp leveled out at 190 degrees, oil pressure constant at 45 psi. I could have driven the distance in high but shifted down to 2nd at the end for higher rpms which rested the engine. The 2nd and over on an overdrive would have been perfect. I have the OD and will eventually install it.

Thanks for the help.