Another New Project 1950 Plymouth

[Plymouthy Adams]

probably get further along if you get the cell phone out of the one guy's ear.......lol

 

Shame you not building it yourself, understand the time constraints and such...but man to me, that is a lot of fun erecting your own building.   

[Kilgore47]

Didn't get that much done this week.  They only worked Monday and took the rest of the week off for Thanksgiving.  Can't blame them for that.  They are supposed to be back Monday with three more people.  Hope they get the roof on before it rains.

 

[Kilgore47]

 

Thanks for the tip on the lighting Bob.  I picked up four UFO lights last week.  Went to the local warehouse lighting store.  They have three settings  150W, 200W or 240W.  And they are dimmable.  I think you have to buy an accessory to dim them.  I plan to just set them on the highest level.  The spec sheet lists that as a little over 37,000 lumens.  I took one out and plugged it in outside last night to see how bright they will be.  WOW the one light lit up the entire back yard.  

 

More news latter

[Bob Riding]

1 hour ago, Kilgore47 said:

 

Thanks for the tip on the lighting Bob.  I picked up four UFO lights last week.  Went to the local warehouse lighting store.  They have three settings  150W, 200W or 240W.  And they are dimmable.  I think you have to buy an accessory to dim them.  I plan to just set them on the highest level.  The spec sheet lists that as a little over 37,000 lumens.  I took one out and plugged it in outside last night to see how bright they will be.  WOW the one light lit up the entire back yard.  

 

More news latter

You're welcome. I love mine- makes my shop as bright as an operating table!

[Sniper]

When I worked at the cement plant we were changing out from sodium vapor to LED high bays.  We replaced them much more often that the sodium lights, which was a PITA because we could just unscrew the sodiums and screw in a new bulb.  Had to replace the entire LED fixture when they failed.

 

The LED lights did not hold up well.  But that might be more of a function of the ambient conditions than the lights.  After all, it was 130F on the mill floor, in the winter.  I sweated a lot, lol.

[Bob Riding]

Probably a combination of warm temps (LEDs don't like heat) and early technology- the longevity of the LEDs and the color rendering have improved greatly in the last 15 years. I remember doing energy audits when I worked for "a large CA utility company" and found HPS (high pressure sodium) lamps that had been in place for ten years or more. They would just slowly get dimmer, but not really burn out, but they still drew the same amount of watts, so not a good deal for the customer. 

[JBNeal]

When I rewired the barn in 2019, I opted to go with 75W equiv. LED floodlamps as the price for GEs had dropped to about 5 bucks apiece.  Before I got too carried away, I hung one in the middle of one of the bays and disconnected the existing lights and did a test one night to determine its pattern.  The next day, I hung another so there was some overlap and verified the results that night to see how hard it was to read the label on the LED box...made an adjustment the next day, tested it that night, then a second adjustment was verified the night after that.  From there, I figured the light spacing required to fill the whole barn and not have shadows in the corners nor have too much light overlap and waste $$$ on hardware.  The best part is heading out to the barn in pitch black night and hitting the lights and it not feel like a flashbulb just went off in my face.  Several of the neighbors have this problem as the electricians they hired to do their barns were of the mindset that if some is good, more must be better, so they put in lights that are too big and too close together and too many of them and charged too much for their work...it's like standing on a snow-covered field on a sunny day in there, almost migraine inducing 

[Veemoney]

I think those lights with the LEDs pointing down rather than some down and some at angles out would work nicely.

 

My walls are 10ft which is my ceiling height. I started with 4ft LED bulbs and used my old fluorescent fixture with the transformers removed. The bulbs I originally purchased were the clear unfiltered LEDs, I put up a few and they had me seeing spots because 10ft ceiling wasn't tall enough for them. I exchanged them for ones with a frosted diffuser and that worked out nicely for my set-up.

Had the same issue with one of the corncob style LED bulbs I used in an outside streetlight style fixture up about 14ft up.  A portion of that bulb stuck out past the bottom of the fixture and did me the same way so went with a smaller version of that style bulb that did not protrude past the plastic diffuser. I wouldn't look directly at the bulbs, but they were in my periphery, I guess. 

[Kilgore47]

I thought about the too bright thing.  That's why I went with dimmable units.  If they are too bright, I will add the dimming modules.  I'm also having the lights put on separate switches so I can turn on all or just one.

 

They should get the roof on today.

 

More news latter

[Kilgore47]

Got the decking on yesterday.  The center of the shop will be 14 feet tall.  Plenty of room for a big ceiling fan.  

 

More news latter

[Kilgore47]

Ready for the electrician.   They should start today or tomorrow.  Going with more outlets than I think I will need.  I hope.  

 

Now it's time to start thinking about stuff to hang on the walls for decoration.  I should have plenty of stuff around here for that.  An old wagon - an old bicycle - old tractor seats.  Stuff like that to break up these big walls.

 

More news latter

[Young Ed]

I like to hang car grills and dashes on my walls. My shop currently has a 47 Dodge truck dash, a P15 dash l, and a 94 Dakota grill. Along with lots of signs and random hubcaps.

[Kilgore47]

I haven't up dated the pictures lately.  Roof is on - siding going on - electric is ruffed in and a couple of doors are installed.  Insulation is coming up.  The new building will be painted to match the house.

 

Went to the local paint store and priced epoxy for the floor.  They said it would take one to two weeks for the paint to cure before I can start loading stuff on it.  Watching the paint dry for two weeks is going to be very hard.  Been wanting to do this for 71 years - guess I'll be able to hold off for two more weeks once the floor is painted.  Maybe

 

More news latter

[Bob Riding]

Looking good! Here's an appropriate poster for your wall.

[jclars]

Looking good Kilgore!  Good thing you are planning the interior design well in advance.  Those things have to be just right!

 

Happy new year, as I'm sure it will be, as you enjoy your long awaited shop!  woo hoo!

[Ivan_B]

Just noticed that you have a somewhat complicated roof structure. Make sure to seal those corners (where one plane goes into the other) very well, at the bottom. This is likely where it will start leaking the soonest

[Kilgore47]

19 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

Just noticed that you have a somewhat complicated roof structure

The outside is a normal 1 to 2 roof.  The inside is vaulted to leave room for a ceiling fan and lights above a lifted car.

[jclars]

Me too Bob - thanks!  Just got two for now to see how they worked in the shop.  Same spec by Sunco.  21000 to 34000 lumens.  Doesn't say, but do you have to be on the highest voltage to attain the 34K lumens?  Bright enough as is.  I mounted at 15'-6" but may lower it as my vapor lights (400W) were at 13'-0".

[Bob Riding]

The 120 or 277 volts is based on which electrical system you have.  Not sure if the lumen output changes with voltage, but it's unlikely. You don't have a choice- you either have 120 or 277, but you can't switch between. Since it's rated at 150 watts and volts X amps = watts, I wouldn't think there would be a lumen change. My thought is that if you picked a different color temperature, say 3,500k instead of 6k, you might get more or less light, based on the efficiency of the LED itself, and that's what the label is reflecting.

 

[Bob Riding]

I forgot to mention that 277 volts is a common voltage for commercial lighting circuits.

[jclars]

Quite happy with the output as it is, but wondered about the lumen range is all.  Does it start at 34K or do I need more umph?  It came with two capped wires labeled dimmer switch. Instructions very lacking in details, but still happy with the product.  Amazing the size comparison to the old vapor lights!

[LazyK]

10 hours ago, jclars said:

Quite happy with the output as it is, but wondered about the lumen range is all.  Does it start at 34K or do I need more umph?  It came with two capped wires labeled dimmer switch. Instructions very lacking in details, but still happy with the product.  Amazing the size comparison to the old vapor lights!

Dimmer required would need to be a 0-10 volt dimmer, not your standard household dimmer. Dimmer needs to be figured into your initial electrical wiring, tough to add it in at a later date. As for the lumen output there should be a switch built in to the fixture to select it. The electronics built in to the fixture will sense the input voltage(120-277)and adjust accordingly.

[jclars]

I got clarification from Sunco that implies it is 34k lumens as supplied, with dimmer switch bringing the rating down to the lower rating of 21k.  I added the second light in front of my lift at 14' elevation and those two lights alone would be sufficient light in the area covered (about 24x24.  I have one more UFO coming to extend the brighter lighting another 12 feet or so in the main work area.  I will then remove some of the tube lights that are losing their ballasts.   Area specific lights like tube lighting over side work benches would still be needed IMO.  

 

Looks like you'll have to start a different thread for you car build Kilgore!  This one turned into a shop build thread, but has pushed a few of us into new lighting technology that is much appreciated!

 

John