Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Enamel

[OUTFXD]

8 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

Looked it up, what I was describing appears to be the good-old lacquer paint application technique. The fact that many technologies are not used anymore, is heavily related to the production efficiency (cheaper) of the process. Not necessarily something one wants to aspire to

Paint is effectively Solids dissolved in Pain thinner.  You spread it out,  The thinner evaporates,  and when the solids dry you have a solid coating.  Back in the day we had paint thinners that would (Literally) dissolve the Blood-brain barrier if inhaled.  It made for a fabulously hard coating.  Not so great on the safety front.   When Worker safety became a thing,  limits where put on "Harmfull" thinners meaning that paint had to evolve in a different direction.

 

p.s. Not intending as a "Your wrong" statement.  more of a "as well as" thing.

Edited April 24 by OUTFXD

[Los_Control]

12 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Rustoleum Appliance paint has it uses and I have used it on appliances, for that application, it is ideal.  Holds up well to repeated washings.  

Are you suggesting I need to wash the washer/dryer in the garage???   ..... Blasphemy! 

[Dan Hiebert]

Back to the OP's query, I think there are enough coatings that are already proven to work well on floor pans to alleviate experimenting with appliance paint.  I don't think appliance paint would be flexible enough.

 

I've become a fan of Rustoleum's oil based paints, applied with a brush, for hidden parts.  Easy to touch-up when needed.  It can be applied with a sprayer for a nice smooth finish, too.  I've used truck bed paint (non-textured) on floor pans with really good results, and I tried that implement paint, that Tractor Supply Co. sells, on the new floor pans I put in the brother-in-law's car a couple years ago.  What impressed me with the implement paint was how well it held up once it cured, because I was still stomping around on it for a year as I finished the rest of the car.  I use POR15 for smaller parts that need a really durable coating, it resists damage from brake fluid and gasoline very well.   

Edited April 29 by Dan Hiebert
typo

[Adam H P15 D30]

It's amazing what Rustoleum paint can look like when sprayed with hardener and urethane clear to give the UV protection

[Plymouthy Adams]

been using hardener and the better reducers with Rustoleum since the 80's good stuff....just got to know what works with what is all.....ya did good!

[Los_Control]

Something I have not figured out on my Rustoleum paint job yet.

I love just using it straight out of the can with a brush for frame, suspension floors. .... My final product spraying the body, it looks ok but feels rough.

When I run my hand over it it feels ruff ..... typically you would expect smooth. ..... Just not sure where I messed up here.

 

I painted this little garden shed with Rutoleum white, run your hands over it and it is smooth.

 

 

I painted this thing and it feels rough, not quite a corn cob rough .... but you feel it. .... Just not sure what I did wrong here.

My $15 harbor freight gun had 10k miles on it before I sprayed the truck?

Is it possible the low gloss black paint just comes out this way?

Did I use the wrong hardener?

I feel like something went wrong here and I'm not sure what it is. ..... 100% satisfied with the first car I ever painted .... I think I can improve on this though.

Either way I still need more paint. Fenders are not painted, final paint in interior .....so I'm thinking about wet sanding and get it smooth then mask it off and spray it again.

 

Certainly would be curious what others say about a final rough spray.

[Bingster]

I don't know if you gave it a light tack coat followed by a full wet coat, but you have to spray it on wet, just to the point of not running. It's a balance of air and paint, and how quickly the paint sets up. You need to be able to apply a full wet coat on, say, an entire fender or hood at one time.  Guys with the proper paint, reducer and hardener can do the entire car with automotive paint, of course.  If you're on a Rustoleum budget, I would mask off a section at at time so you get a nice wet coat without overspray on the adjacent metal.  If it turns out rough, sand and shoot it again.   I doubt you'll be able to match the quality of automotive paints, but it depends how how fussy you are.  As a guy I worked for used to say, "Looks good from where I live."

[Sam Buchanan]

Gloss can also be very temperature-dependent. The paint has to be applied wet enough to flow out before the solvents begin to flash off. That is why high-end paint has various reducers available for a wide range of application temps. 

 

Don't get us started on orange peel........or fish-eyes...... 

[JBNeal]

Wet-sanding is your friend 👈🏻

[lemondana]

I use this Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy on about anything I want painted black.  It dries very slowly, but is glossy and very durable. I use it on wheels, pulleys and brackets. It also comes in gloss white, almond, and stainless steel. It's high priced in the hardware stores. Walmart usually has it-you have to look hard. Again-it is very durable and shiny!  I highly recommend to try it.   

[Ivan_B]

I've seen bad paint jobs on cars, and it felt exactly like what you describe - rough to the touch, and collects lint from a microfiber cloth if you try to wax it. This should be fixed with sanding and polishing.

[Los_Control]

On 4/26/2024 at 7:54 PM, Bingster said:

I don't know if you gave it a light tack coat followed by a full wet coat, but you have to spray it on wet, just to the point of not running. It's a balance of air and paint, and how quickly the paint sets up. You need to be able to apply a full wet coat on, say, an entire fender or hood at one time.  Guys with the proper paint, reducer and hardener can do the entire car with automotive paint, of course.  If you're on a Rustoleum budget, I would mask off a section at at time so you get a nice wet coat without overspray on the adjacent metal.  If it turns out rough, sand and shoot it again.   I doubt you'll be able to match the quality of automotive paints, but it depends how how fussy you are.  As a guy I worked for used to say, "Looks good from where I live."

I believe you are 100% correct here, ..... sand and shoot again.

You need to use the Rustoleum straight out of the bucket with a $1 paint brush ..... you will have a better quality paint job on your floors then what it was born with 75 years Ago.  .... you can spend more $$$ .... I figure my job as a caretaker is to make it better then I found it ..... If the next guy wants it perfect, more power to them.

 

As far as my issue, sorry for busting in on your thread and complaining about my problem .... I can start a new thread when ready to deal with it.

That will be a month or two away .... truck is just put on the back burner for now while I take care of other spring projects.

 

Same time for a hound dog hauler, it might just be fine as is.

[Bingster]

You didn't bust in. It's a thread about paint, isn't it?

[JBNeal]

After repairing the structural damage to my friend's 5x10 trailer, next is repainting this relic from the 80s with Rustoleum and foam brush.  We have been dealing with alotta rain so this li'l trailer is back outside as higher priority projects are in the barn.  Tongue, bulkhead, top rails, and tail ledge were wire cup brushed, washed in Dawn + water, dried off with a towel during a 6 hr sunny afternoon, then the breeze ran across it as I stirred clean metal primer...1st coat went on in the shade nice'n thin, smooth to touch when checked 24hrs later.  2nd coat was applied in shade with winds 10-15 mph, and by 24hrs later, it had dried a little rough so I buffed with wet scotchbrite pad and towel dried 2x.  It kinda felt like that primer was drying on the brush cuz of the wind as brush dragged a bit on the surfaces...I'm guessing the rough texture was teeny dried balls of paint that the brush was rolling off of the 2nd primer coat as it was skinning over rapidly due to the gusty wind.  It did not take much effort to buff them off, and the 1st coat of Hunter green went on smoothly thereafter...though the skies spritzed for a few minutes right as I was finishing.  That precip beaded up on the horizontal surfaces after coating, so it looks like I'll be wet sanding before 2nd top coat.

 

The trick here is to move fast with the brush without slinging paint all over creation.  Trial and error has taught me to dip foam brush 1/4 into paint then dab globs of paint quickly in parallel stripes to the desired brush strokes in a manageable area, then tip brush back and forth to spread those globs around until brush just starts to drag.  Putting paint on too thinly with house painting brush strokes will not cover well as brush will drag unevenly.  Dipping too much paint onto the brush makes a mess and the foam will deteriorate faster, pulling off of the handle because of the extra weight.  With more use, the paint eventually wicks up the foam...I grip the brush by the foam at the base of the handle, kinda like an ink pen, and by the time paint starts to get on my fingers, I know that I do not have much time before the foam might start sloughing off into the paint I'm trying to spread around.

 

It's looking like I'll need less than a quart each of primer and green paint to finish this trailer, which tallies to a 50 buck paint job with no overspray to deal with...I can live with that

[Bingster]

Forgive me if I sound condescending, because I don't intend to, but painting in wind or mist is not conducive to a good paint job. Maybe I'm missing something here. And foam brushes may be convenient, but you can control the amount of paint and flow much better with a good bristle brush if you don't want to spray.  Foam brushes don't allow you to do backstrokes from left to right into the paint you've just applied to smooth out brush marks. And, with a paint like Rustoleum, you have the advantage of an oil base paint which levels well.  But the paint/thinner ratio is the key to apply a generous wet coat and let it level on its own. You can then sand and repeat with a slightly thinned down material.

 

You know, there is a paint additive called Penetrol that takes the place of thinner which I use extensively when using oil-base paint for house interior trim. Dries smooth as glass. But I don't know how it might hold up outdoors.

 

Like anything else, with experience you'll quickly graduate from a foam brush to a good-quality Purdy bristle.

[JBNeal]

Yes, spraying paint gets more coverage faster, but when ya factor in the overspray prepararion and cleanup on subjects where ya only need a good long lasting coating and esthetics are not a priority, foam brushes are hard to beat.  Foam brushes do have limitations, but as described this is work being done outside on an old utility trailer with bare metal showing from recent welding repairs, less than ideal conditions on something that is seen as an implement, not a show piece.  Weather conditions should be improving when I get to the fenders, so I plan on doing some wet sanding to induce some shine, but the rest of the trailer I'm only trying to keep a smooth finish as this thing will get crawled over and beat on by ppl usually in a hurry to get a chore done.

 

The propane tank painting experiment has proven that using these economical methods outdoors works well as ideal working conditions are limited and the need to complete projects with adequate paint finishes overrules the need for superior paint finish results.  My collection of Purdy brushes has served me well over the last 15yrs, and they do great on woodwork and sheetrock, as long as it is not too windy.  I had to trash one of my Purdy brushes years ago cuz I tried to finish painting an eave as a storm system popped up and was blowing in...apparently the paint dried on the bristles on the last few sq ft and while I tried to clean that water base paint off, it was clear that the bristles were purt'near stiff as a board and nothing I tried could recondition them...lesson learned.

[JBNeal]

I was reminded about one of the limitations of the foam brush when I had to do the underside of the utility trailer top rail a few days ago.  Since I'm still working outside in between chores and passing thunderstorms (and a few EF2s) , I have split the painting into sections so that I'm doing surface prep - prime - top coat in manageable sections.  Working on the bulkhead rails, the foam brush worked as usual but when I went overhead, the paint saturated the foam before flowing onto the frame...that kinda got messy as I was working top to bottom, left to right, and the foam was falling off of the handle right as I was finishing up the 1st coat.  So on subsequent coats, I opted to do the overhead areas next to last, and the foam brush did not fill up so hunter green didn't run all over my fingers as before.  With paint now in the brush, I could put a coat on the flat areas quickly, squeezing out the foam to put the paint on the work area and not wasting a drop.

[JerseyHarold]

Here's a painting tip I recently found out about:

 

Cut a slit in the bottom of a paper cup and push the brush handle through it.  The cup will catch any drips when the brush is held upside-down.

 

Hope this helps.