Plug wires for '49 Plymouth?

[Cooper40]

Since we just got the engine unstuck I'm looking into getting different components for the engine to get it running. I am new to all of this so I don't have a clue as to what plug wires to get. What would you guys recommend? Thanks!

[DJK]

1 hour ago, Cooper40 said:

Since we just got the engine unstuck I'm looking into getting different components for the engine to get it running. I am new to all of this so I don't have a clue as to what plug wires to get. What would you guys recommend? Thanks!

I prefer the solid core on my 52.

[Cooper40]

@DJK Ok...again, not really sure what that means. What brand do you like?

[Sniper]

This is what I did for my 51.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires

[joecoozie]

 

?

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by joecoozie
none

[DonaldSmith]

What's so special about Plymouth spark plug wires? 

Aside from vintagfe-looking wires, there are two types of generic wire sets:

Solid copper core, where noise suppression is not needed or wheree resistance plugs are used.

Noise suppression core. 

These come in unfinished lengths, and are cut to match the lengths of the exisiting wires.  Then the ends go on- connectors and boots.   

[Ivan_B]

1 hour ago, DonaldSmith said:

What's so special about Plymouth spark plug wires?

Nothing. And any generic wires will do (either sold by foot, or universal sets). Given the fact that the engine was stuck, I would not spend too much money on the wires at this point. I would probably use the old ones, assuming they are not damaged and still pass the continuity check.

[DJK]

22 hours ago, Cooper40 said:

@DJK Ok...again, not really sure what that means. What brand do you like?

I bartered with Moparpro and got a set from him. There is a good tech article I found "On All Cylinders", explaining the different types of plug wires. 

[Cooper40]

@Ivan_B one of wires looks like it's been cut so i have to get new ones. I'm not wanting anything crazy. I just need a direction to go in. I know there are many different brands that will work I'm just curious on your guys' opinion. 

[Sam Buchanan]

44 minutes ago, Cooper40 said:

@Ivan_B one of wires looks like it's been cut so i have to get new ones. I'm not wanting anything crazy. I just need a direction to go in. I know there are many different brands that will work I'm just curious on your guys' opinion. 

 

I don't think you are going to find different "brands" of plug wire sets for these cars due to how long they have been out of production. As noted above your choices are to purchase a pre-fabricated set from a vendor that caters to our community or get a generic set from your local auto parts store and cut-n-fit to your application. The subset is solid core wires (consist of an actual copper wire inside the insulation) or resistor wires (consist of a carbon core which inhibits electrical interference with a radio). Either type will allow your engine to convert gasoline into noise.

 

I put a set of solid core cut-n-fit wires on my P15 since it has no radio and the wire set was readily available locally at a very reasonable cost. Fabrication of the wires is a simple process, just fit and replace one wire at a time.

Edited September 6, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Ivan_B]

1 hour ago, Cooper40 said:

one of wires looks like it's been cut so i have to get new ones.

I would start with a generic auto-store set, then, something like this.

Before visiting the store, measure your existing wires (approximately) to make sure that the new ones are not too short.

Or, you can even get a single wire, for a couple of bucks, just for testing.

Did you guys get a set of jack-stands, etc.? I do not recall from the previous threads... That would certainly be more important than getting the new wires, if you are on a budget.

Edited September 6, 2023 by Ivan_B

[Cooper40]

@Ivan_B Ok, thanks for the info. I'll definitely measure them. Yes we are borrowing two stands from a friend and we got a floor jack. We had to be under the car removing rod bearings and prying on the flywheel to get the engine unstuck. 

[greg g]

Been running a universal 6 cylinder set of copper cores from Tractor Supply.  Been in there since 2002 and 50k miles.  Still nice and pliable, boots on both ends still good.  No light show after dark.  They were 20 bucks 20 years ago.

[Ivan_B]

23 minutes ago, Cooper40 said:

Yes we are borrowing two stands from a friend and we got a floor jack.

Good. You might also want to get a cheap digital multi-meter, for all the electrical stuff, if you don't have one.

[Sam Buchanan]

6 hours ago, greg g said:

Been running a universal 6 cylinder set of copper cores from Tractor Supply.  Been in there since 2002 and 50k miles.  Still nice and pliable, boots on both ends still good.  No light show after dark.  They were 20 bucks 20 years ago.

 

Yep, Tractor Supply. I like this set because it has the 90 degree plug boots like the original wires.

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-spark-plug-wire-set-sws260

 

 

I doubt wire sets with the plug connectors already attached will fit through the loom tubes on the engine.

Edited September 6, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[desoto1939]

when hooking up the new sp wires do not put the metal end and or cap that attaches onto the top of the dizzy.  Thread the wire trough the  metal housing then onto the appropriate location on the dizzy.  DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME. Start with number 1 sparkplug and then complete that setup then go to number 2 thru 6.

 

Saves alot of confusion and this eliminate putting the wrong wire in the wrong place on the cap.

 

Rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[DonaldSmith]

My car has two tubes for running the plug wires from the engine back to the distributor, 3 wires per tube.  Some of the older cars have six tubes.  I sometimes wonder if the wires have their own private light show within the tubes.  Nah, not with wires that are in good shape.  Right? 

 

DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME.  I'vwe been confused when pulling a plug wire, and having one of its adjacent wires moving at the other end of the tube. Take one wire at a time comletely out of the tube.  You'll have to take off the boot and connector from the distributor end, or cut the wire.  If you cut the wire, be sure to take in account the length you cut off whe you measure for the new wire.   It sounds like a  Duhhh, but been there, done that.      

[Cooper40]

@Ivan_B yep, we were gonna do that.

[Cooper40]

@DonaldSmith Ok thanks for the info. Our car doesnt have the tube things but they're still on the cap. 

[OUTFXD]

On 9/5/2023 at 6:17 AM, Cooper40 said:

Ok...again, not really sure what that means. What brand do you like?

"Solid  Core" Wires are just wires,  metal Core with an insulated sheath. this is as opposed to "Radio suppression core"  Which is simply made of material that suppresses High Frequency Electronic noise,  Which is just fancy talk for "Stops your ignition from causing your radio to buzz".  Solid core is more conductive and serves better in high performance applications where audio quality is not an issue.  Suppression core is better suited to every day cars where you are going to be listening to the radio alot.

Edited September 6, 2023 by OUTFXD

[Cooper40]

@OUTFXD Ok, thank you that makes sense. 

[Ivan_B]

3 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

Saves a lot of confusion and this eliminate putting the wrong wire in the wrong place on the cap.

Unless someone already messed them up, since the car is currently not running and at least one wire is cut ?

I'd recommend checking the firing order and correct connection anyway, in this particular case.

[Bryan G]

Most of the vendors (Bernbaum, Roberts, Kanters) offer sets that are reproductions of the material used back when the car was young. You can get some pretty snazzy looking color combos, among other things. But that's all overkill. I would shop by color, finding something black or dull orange vs bright yellow or something else that wouldn't look right under the hood.

[FarmerJon]

There are several supply houses for copper core, vintage style sparkplug wires and connections. They make ready made sets, but also, for cheaper, sell the wire by the foot, and loose connectors.

https://brillman.com is one such vendor.

This lets you build wires exactly how you want. However,  for you, I would get the cheapest ones you can- tractor supply or the ones from autozone. Easy to swap later.

Edited September 8, 2023 by FarmerJon

[Dartgame]

I had trouble finding a reasonably priced set of universal silicone suppression wires, with straight distributor boots, and 90 Degree spark plug boots. Solid core or stranded core copper wire sets could be found easily. What I did was buy a fitted set for a 6 cylinder application, that had long enough wires to cut to length, and a set of straight distributor boots and conductors.