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I don't know which way to hammer out the oil seal on the timing cover?


MarcDeSoto

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If you had the new seal in hand, sure it would be self explanatory.

 

I'm still looking at this photo here .... The lip or edge of the seal is on the outside, so would drive it from inside out.

I can be wrong here though .... would not be the first time.

A few minor taps will get the seal moving .... really should not be too much trouble to drive it out.

I would guess from the inside out from the photos .... I might guess the other way in person working on it.

A few taps both ways will tell you ..... You do not need a 3# sledge hammer here .... just give it a few taps & get it moving .... you will know.

 

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  Clean some paint off and it should be obvious.  One side will be larger in diameter than the other. Or, wait til the new one is in your hands. 

 

And, BTW, that is not a seal removal tool, it is an installation tool.  I guess one could use it to remove, but I've never seen one used for that.  A punch or chisel works best for removal IME.

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1 hour ago, MarcDeSoto said:

So if you install it from the back to the front, it would make sense to remove it from the front out the back.  Good video Keith!  I'll watch it again today!   I'll use a chisel and a hammer this time.  Thanks!!!

 

Not a chisel, a drift.

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I just went out to the shop, pulled a timing cover off a core engine.

I removed and re-installed that seal

Have done tons of them.

So here's some pics Marc...

I usually use a press but the hammer and seal/race driver works perfect and easy on a solid hard surface. In this case on a 1/2" steel plate. This helps the seal drive out with one or two hammer blows.

I also use back up proper sized steel tubes to prevent damage to the timing cover and makes the seals come out easier.  Sized just bigger than the seal depending which way I'm driving the seal with gasket. I'm not say anyone has to do this...I do myself.

I always use a full diameter driver of the correct size to prevent damage to the seals when installing.

Same when removing. Chisels naw.

Most replacement t/c seals won't have the raised portion that extends out the front of the cover.

Modern seals usually look different and might seal in the timing cover different too. No ring gasket used as in the pic.

 

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   Now that’s the information you need. Thanks Bob. It’s possible that the seal was installed with a locktite of some sort. A gentle heating will release the bond. I would eliminate the yellow paint, at least on the inside of the cover. You seem to have Christine’s older sister.

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excellent pics and it makes much more understandable.  I'll do it.  I did it like you said, but it won't budge.  This is just like the u-joint that wouldn't come out.  In the Youtube videos these things come out in one or two whacks.  I've hit mine as least 50 times with no movement.  Just to be clear, I'm hittlng the front of the timing cover trying to hit the seal out the back.  

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Bring it to me...I'll have it out in 10 minutes. ?

It's necessary to have a stable and firm mounting of the timing cover set up.

Concrete or a thick steel plate on the bench is necessary.

Supporting the cover properly on a very hard and dense surface and have  backside of the cover supported directly close and around seal.

This makes sure all hammer impact is directed to the seal only and none wasted through the timing cover sheet metal itself.

You need to transfer all the direct hammer hammer force directly to the seal.

If the timing cover is bouncing while hammering on the seal most of the hammer force is wasted and going to the cover not the seal.

This is something you learn thru years of doing this kind of stuff.

if you can swing and direct the hammer blows in a kind and powerful way that seal will pop right out.

Sorry I can't show it or explain it better.

Heat should not be required unless red loctite was used...doubt that!

 

 

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12 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

excellent pics and it makes much more understandable.  I'll do it.  I did it like you said, but it won't budge.  This is just like the u-joint that wouldn't come out.  In the Youtube videos these things come out in one or two whacks.  I've hit mine as least 50 times with no movement.  Just to be clear, I'm hittlng the front of the timing cover trying to hit the seal out the back.  

Taps don't work, need to HIT it.    I hope you meant that you are hitting the seal with a drift not the 'timing cover' as stated?

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Jesus!

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While it should not be necessary, if I was fighting with a seal this stubborn. I would probably have got my dremel tool with  a cut off wheel & cut it out of there.

 

Would take longer then just knocking it out .... will be a delicate operation not damaging the case.

Seems like it would come apart in 2 or 3 layers. Get all the outer layers out would be quick & dirty.

Then be very cautious cutting the last layer so you do not damage the cover.

Should be able to get the cut started, then pry on it with a screwdriver trying to pull it away from the cover & keep cutting.

 

I could do the same thing with a die grinder & carbide tip. Use a hacksaw blade? Figure out what you have & use it.

 

We all know it should not be this difficult, Who knows what the last person used to glue it in with.

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Pay my airfare..all this silly drama will be over in a flash.

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1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Is that timing cover going to be useable after this punishment???

Jesus always saves....car parts too.

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I applied fire today and heated the seal up red hot.  It still would not budge with a hammer and a drift.  All I've done so far is put some dents in the part that sticks up in front.  Just to be clear, I'm hitting the part shown below with the arrow pointing to it.  Does anyone sell used timing covers without the old seal in it?  

 

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