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Oil leak under chaincase cover on 48 DeSoto!


MarcDeSoto

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I have an oil leak, a bad one, under my chaincase cover.  So I removed the radiator, fan, vibration damper, etc.  I think I will need to replace the chaincase cover gasket and maybe the oil pan gasket also.  Do I have to remove the crankshaft nut to do this?  What's the best way to remove it.  I have the socket and wrench.  A friend told me to put the wrench on the nut and jam the breaker bar on the frame.  Then, hit the starter button which turns clockwise.  The breaker bar will not let the nut turn with the starter, and might break it loose.  Is this a good idea?  

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Edited by MarcDeSoto
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13 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said:

A friend told me to put the wrench on the nut and jam the breaker bar on the frame.  Then, hit the starter button which turns clockwise.  The breaker bar will not let the nut turn with the starter, and might break it loose.  Is this a good idea?  

 

That is my preferred method

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   Maybe the chain cover was tightened before the hub was put on forty years ago. You might be able to replace the seal and center the case with your hub, and possibly a speedy-sleeve if your hub is worn. You might need a 1 11/16” socket and a short piece of pipe in the end of the crankshaft so your hub puller has something to push off of. I’ve bought larger sockets from Tractor Supply for $20. You will need a 3/4” to 1/2” adapter for the tools you probably own. 

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I wish I had that tool C-522 for centering the chain case cover.  I was able to break the crankshaft bolt by placing the 13/16" socket in place and bracing the breaker bar against the frame.  Then cranking the starter.  The socket would explode off the bolt when I cranked, so I placed a drift in a hole on top of the frame to hold the socket in place.  Then a couple hits of the starter broke it loose.  I ordered a new oil pan gasket and chain case cover gasket.  but I will need a new seal too.  I've forgotten what that looks like or how to install it.  I wonder if it can be ordered alone?  

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Speedy sleeve seals are usually a different inner diameter so make sure you get a seal for the sleeve. At least this is true in the diesel world. I've never bought one for these cars.

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Yeah, that's a groove alright.  Go watch the video I linked earlier in this thread.  It will show you what a speedi sleeve is and how to install one.  It does NOT replace the seal,  all it does is provide a smooth surface for the seal to ride on.  As for what speedi sleeve to get, if I navigated SKF's site (no Desoto listings so I used a 48 Chrysler) this is the one, same as my 51 Plymouth.

 

https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/products/99218

 

Punching that number into Rock Auto shows three brands available.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?pgname=Engine&partnum=99218

 

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Wow, looks beautiful!  My shop manual advised me to just order a new hub.  Guess you can't do that anymore!  Sniper, thanks again for telling me about the Speedi-Sleeve!

I went on Amazon and orderd the National brand Redi-sleeve.  I lucked out because they were offering free Prime for a month, so I'm getting the part on Wednesday!  

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Don't get any paint on that new seal surface...the new seal won't like paint.

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I really have to question the competency of the shop that did that rebuild.  Using that hub was a guaranteed leak and they let it out the door that way.  Speedi Sleeves have been around for decades,

 

Vintage Powerwagons sells NOS hubs.  In the engine section

 

https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog

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2 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I'm the shop that did that rebuild 40 years ago.  I guess I was incompetent.  I just put the new redi-sleeve on and for once something went on perfectly!

 

Difference between an amateur and a pro.  A pro should know better, an amateur learns the hard way, lol.  Bet you never forget to check for that again.

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I would by a new hub. Then take the old one to a machine shop and ask then to turn it down a few thousands and also to turn the inside a very little bit so it will slide nice onto the crankshaft without the key. Then use that hub as 'the tool" to center the cover. That is what I did. Works fine.

 

James

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