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Posted (edited)

Still fighting my charging system.  Finally occured to me to try the old "Pull the battery lead off and see if the engine dies test" (or ptbloasitedt for short) and... the engine died straight away.

 

Does this test work on Generators the same as alternators?

 

I did a search for kits to install a 6v alternator and all I got was 6v pos ground chev alternators with serpentine belt pullys and the like.

 

Can anyone point me to a kit with appropriate Pully(5/8ths inch)/bracketry?

 

Edited by OUTFXD
Posted (edited)

Alternatorparts.com

Sells kits to convert your core or complete alternators. You specify v belt width.

Edited by LazyK
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Posted
2 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

This topic and link has been posted many times, even in your previous threads on this subject. 

Yeah but, I'm an idiot!

  • Haha 1
Posted

When I follow your link I end up on a page with a variety of ford/gm alternators of various polarities.

 

When left to my own devices,  I end up making numerous orders of the wrong items before stumbling upon the right thing.

 

I "think" I found the right alternator,  though it doesnt say it fits my car.  It claims o be universal,  but I am left worrying about pulley offset and wiring it into my car.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234736065907?hash=item36a75c1d73:g:Y~QAAMXQobdQ7d68

Posted (edited)

That one will work, there aren’t any alternators specifically for our cars. Pulley alignment is achieved with the adjustable bracket. Wiring is a non-event, just one wire that connects to the BAT terminal on your old regulator. The armature and field wires aren’t used.

 

Someone posted about how to lightly mod the alternator so it fits on the original bracket, think it involved grinding a slot into the mounting boss.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Posted

It sounds like you're giving up on the generator.  I think it can still be saved.

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Posted

well' I am certainly frustrated with it.  Everything seems to be in operational order, but it doesnt work. The only thing that comes to mind is the windings burned out. and fixing that is gonna cost more and be more work than simply replacing it with an alternator.

 

Ill hang onto it and see if I cant repair it in the future.

Posted

Once you get an alternator mounted and wired, I'll work with you step by step to find the problem with the gen.

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Posted
1 hour ago, OUTFXD said:

well' I am certainly frustrated with it.  Everything seems to be in operational order, but it doesnt work. The only thing that comes to mind is the windings burned out. and fixing that is gonna cost more and be more work than simply replacing it with an alternator.

 

Ill hang onto it and see if I cant repair it in the future.

 While I am certainly the type to try and DIY as much as I can I do understand that a man's got to know his limitations.  In my case if it goes beyond a loose nut or bad brushes I pretty much take a generator to a repair ship and let them sort it out.

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Posted

Maybe the generator repair shop might give you a good deal on an alternator.   My alternator was assembled by a local auto electric shop.  Change some innards and it's 6-volt Positive ground.  And put the right pulley on it.   

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Posted

Have you tried grounding the field terminal briefly with the engine running just above idle?   Called full fielding and removes the regulator from the equation. 

Posted
16 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Have you tried grounding the field terminal briefly with the engine running just above idle?   Called full fielding and removes the regulator from the equation. 

Thats a new one to me,  Ill give it a try! Thanks!

Posted

The generator regulator combo only works when and if your battery needs charging.  If your battery is fully charged, and you car starts easily and quickly, the Amp gauge may not show anything but the slightest movement to positive.  My car usually shows a 5 amp or less charge for a couple miles, then drops to just a hint of positive indication. If all you are running is ignition and your battery is up to snuff, the regulator will idle the generator until it senses the need to cut in the generator to replace energy removed from the battery.  When I first got my car, my regulator wasn't working correctly.   Had to drive with the headlights on to keep it from overcharging.  What you perceive as a fault, may be the system working as designed.  

 

As mentioned  temporarily grounding the field coil, (this process is one of the charging systems tests shown in the service manual) by passes the regulator's sensing process and defaults to full charge mode regardless of the state of charge in the battery.  The field wire terminal is the smaller diameter post on the generator.   Should be the skinnier wire also.

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Posted

I finally found a good pic showing the location of the second brush's pigtail's fastening location.  It screws to the brush holder in the same location as the other brush does to it's brush holder.  It came from a site that did step by a step by step 90+ pic rebuild of a WW II Jeep Autolite 6v gen.  You'll have to remove the gen and the brush cover but you don't have to take the gen apart.

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Posted

This morning I woke up to a dead battery.  I jump started her and drove five or six miles to a minny mart with the headlights on.  Came out of the mart and she started right up on her own.

 

I am starting to think I have a direct short somewhere.

 

Decided to look into replacing the wire harness.  My search for a 6v Vintage wire harness turned up 3 adds for Ford Mustang T-shirts, A Toyota Highlander wire harness (v6), a dozen fuse relay switches, and a stereo install kit.... My google-fu is weak*sniff*.

 

anyone have a lead on (new) wiring harnesses for our cars?

Posted

So.  Building a set of seat rails for the new seat,  took all day.  When I was resting my back/shoulders  I decided to try a couple things with the generator. 

 

Fire time I fired her up 6.2 vots.   I then removed the Bat wire from the voltage regulator. 6.1 volts.  Jumped a wire hot from the battery. 6.01 volts.

 

I'm thinking the generator either isnt charging, or isnt charging enough.  It seems like the difference in voltage is just the battery discharging.

 

I thought about testing current from the generator.  But wasnt really sure how to go about it.  It seems like both Wire terminals are hot  and the generator grounds through the brackets to the engine block.  Is this correct?

Posted
On 3/15/2023 at 11:03 AM, Dave72dt said:

I finally found a good pic showing the location of the second brush's pigtail's fastening location.  It screws to the brush holder in the same location as the other brush does to it's brush holder.  It came from a site that did step by a step by step 90+ pic rebuild of a WW II Jeep Autolite 6v gen.  You'll have to remove the gen and the brush cover but you don't have to take the gen apart

I totally missed your post!  This is good news!   Can you post the pic or a link to the thread?

Posted
4 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

It shows the location somewhere around pic # 93-94 ish, one of the lasr things in the rebuild.  The site did note itself as "not secure" but I had no issues with it.

Thank you! That is a great post and actually has me excited to re-pull the generator!

 

Thanks again!

Posted

So I took the generator to the local automotive electricals shop.  Generator is full dead. The guy behind the counter thinks the field coils went bad and also was unimpressed with the state of  the Armature.

 

Finances being especially tight at the moment. I'm gonna have to put a 6v alternator in her.

 

My question is.  60amp or 100amp? there is only a $20 difference and I am planing to tow a Tear drop trailer.

Posted

For choosing the alternator, a chart of it's performance would be good.  Some higher amp alternators don't do so well at lower speeds. 

 

But all else being the same I'd pop for the higher rated one.  I already need to do that myself, electric fan and EFI.

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