A radical thing for my fluid drive

[James_Douglas]

The oldest trick in the book and one people used to carry in their glove box in the event of a seal failure is to use a single bolt. What you do is get a bolt the same size as the fluid coupling filler hole. Then you rotate the inner turbine until you see one of the holes line up with the filler hole. Then you put the bolt in so that it goes into that inner turbine hole. I know of one person that drive it for years like that.

 

You are correct on the clutch issue. If using it in the hills, you will be going through clutches a lot more often as the fluid drive clutch has a lot smaller surface area.

 

I have been using the "Dodge" arrangement for 15 years. The hills of San Francisco, going to and coming from Lake Tahoe, and the freeways in between. I did switch the front to disc brakes about 10 years ago.

 

Given that my car weighs more than most, and I never had any issues with hills, I think your concerns may be a little to critical.

 

I would suggest hitting a bone yard and seeing if you can get another fluid coupling out of a car that does not look like it was leaking. Swap it in and see how it works for a while in your situation. I can tell you that in a pinch in the dirt, I like the fluid coupling as it will ease out nice in soft soil. On a hill you also don't have to worry so much about the back roll either.

 

James

 

[Tired iron]

10 hours ago, James_Douglas said:

The oldest trick in the book and one people used to carry in their glove box in the event of a seal failure is to use a single bolt. What you do is get a bolt the same size as the fluid coupling filler hole. Then you rotate the inner turbine until you see one of the holes line up with the filler hole. Then you put the bolt in so that it goes into that inner turbine hole. I know of one person that drive it for years like that.

 

You are correct on the clutch issue. If using it in the hills, you will be going through clutches a lot more often as the fluid drive clutch has a lot smaller surface area.

 

I have been using the "Dodge" arrangement for 15 years. The hills of San Francisco, going to and coming from Lake Tahoe, and the freeways in between. I did switch the front to disc brakes about 10 years ago.

 

Given that my car weighs more than most, and I never had any issues with hills, I think your concerns may be a little to critical.

 

I would suggest hitting a bone yard and seeing if you can get another fluid coupling out of a car that does not look like it was leaking. Swap it in and see how it works for a while in your situation. I can tell you that in a pinch in the dirt, I like the fluid coupling as it will ease out nice in soft soil. On a hill you also don't have to worry so much about the back roll either.

 

James

 

James, thanks for the tip about the bolt into the filler hole. Simple and elegant...and reversable!

[James_Douglas]

Just use a grade five bolt and not a grade 8. Why? grade five will bend and grade 8 just shears when they hit their break point.

 

James

[dpollo]

I have two "Delete Fluid Drive" options....  these consist of a regular Plymouth or a Dodge truck flywheel 

disc and pressure plate.   all easy to get.    The hard parts are an extra long input shaft an extra long throw out bearing collar and an extra long front bearing retainer.    This allows the FD bell housing to stay in the car and nothing else needs to be changed.  I do not recall where the first one came from but the second came out of a 54 Dodge  Red Ram which was standard and overdrive. The long bell housing was used to fit under the floor pan.

 

Sorry I cannot offer either one for sale.       I first learned about this as an option from Tex Smith who wrote many auto related articles when he purchased a 48 Chrysler Limo which had been a Glacier Park vehicle.

 

 

[Tired iron]

3 hours ago, dpollo said:

I have two "Delete Fluid Drive" options....  these consist of a regular Plymouth or a Dodge truck flywheel 

disc and pressure plate.   all easy to get.    The hard parts are an extra long input shaft an extra long throw out bearing collar and an extra long front bearing retainer.    This allows the FD bell housing to stay in the car and nothing else needs to be changed.  I do not recall where the first one came from but the second came out of a 54 Dodge  Red Ram which was standard and overdrive. The long bell housing was used to fit under the floor pan.

 

Sorry I cannot offer either one for sale.       I first learned about this as an option from Tex Smith who wrote many auto related articles when he purchased a 48 Chrysler Limo which had been a Glacier Park vehicle.

 

 

Thanks for the info. I think, fir me tho, an even easier option is just to make the fluid drive so it cant spin inside.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here is the picture of the FD inside section with the hole you need to line up to put the bolt through...

[Tired iron]

Ah, so that's what it looks like inside! Thanks for the picture. I may eventually weld it up, but for now, im going to do this single bolt trick.

[Tired iron]

My original post is old, but I'm just getting around to doing the bolt trick that James Douglas shared. Very easy and reversable...just a longer bolt in the fluid drive drain plug hole locks it up.

[BobDeSoto]

And you'll still be able to push start the car.

[MarcDeSoto]

wow!  what an easy fix from James' know-how!

[wagoneer]

One day FD seals will run out and this will be the only way… great trick Thanks so much @James_Douglas

[harmony]

What size is the bolt and what threads and how long?  I'm assuming that once the holes are lined up the bolt actually threads in, right?

[wagoneer]

So would this work for a gyromatic/m5 fluiddrive system too? I guess it still is a semi automatic with clutch but now getting the full Torque of the engine?

[Tired iron]

9 hours ago, harmony said:

What size is the bolt and what threads and how long?  I'm assuming that once the holes are lined up the bolt actually threads in, right?

The bolt is the same size and threads, just longer--about 1" instead of the original 1 /2" . And yep, line the holes up and screw it right on in.

[Tired iron]

Before everyone gets too excited, I'd like to point something out: the fluid drive has a smaller diameter clutch disc (9.5" vs 11" on regular 3 speed ) so not sure if I'm going to experience premature wear on my clutch by turning a fluid drive into a standard 3 speed. Time will tell.

 

I'm doing this for a variety of reasons which I ruminate about earlier in this thread.

Edited February 24, 2023 by Tired iron

[harmony]

Sometimes my brain gets a little like my shop at the end of the day.  It's a little cluttered and it takes forever to find something.  Even though I know it's there someplace. 

Such is the case in trying to remember what style my Fluid Drive is.  I have a 1948 Chrysler Windsor.  It is a 4 speed.  I think it's referred to as a semi-automatic.  But maybe that's a generic term. I believe it's an M-5 since it's a combination of electrics and hydraulics.  I'm thinking the M-6 came out in 1949.  Please correct me if I'm wrong, and right now, I can't remember the difference between the M-5 and the M-6.   

I'm curious if there is a published list of all the Chrysler Fluid Drives going back to 1939 or was it 1940?  I'd love to see a spreadsheet style of particular type of Fluid Drives and years and what particular car it was installed on.  I think they were used up to 1953-1954 in the Plymouth.  Is that correct?

 

But my real question is, should I get a bolt and put it in my glove box?  Or will that trick only work on specific styles of the Fluid Drive. As many of you know, even though my column shift lever has an H pattern, pulling towards you and down, does nothing.  All 4 forward gears are away from you.   First and second-up, third and forth-down.  The other part of the equation is the electrics on my Fluid Drive.  If the bolt trick worked, would any of the wiring have to be disconnected or rewired?

 

As a footnote my Fluid Drive works flawlessly thankfully.  But the bolt in the glove box would make for a great conversation piece. 

 

[Young Ed]

Plymouth never had fluid drive. They did have hy-drive which is sort of a next generation fluid drive and was available 53-54.

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, harmony said:

Sometimes my brain gets a little like my shop at the end of the day.  It's a little cluttered and it takes forever to find something.  Even though I know it's there someplace. 

Such is the case in trying to remember what style my Fluid Drive is.  I have a 1948 Chrysler Windsor.  It is a 4 speed.  I think it's referred to as a semi-automatic.  But maybe that's a generic term. I believe it's an M-5 since it's a combination of electrics and hydraulics.  I'm thinking the M-6 came out in 1949.  Please correct me if I'm wrong, and right now, I can't remember the difference between the M-5 and the M-6.   

I'm curious if there is a published list of all the Chrysler Fluid Drives going back to 1939 or was it 1940?  I'd love to see a spreadsheet style of particular type of Fluid Drives and years and what particular car it was installed on.  I think they were used up to 1953-1954 in the Plymouth.  Is that correct?

 

But my real question is, should I get a bolt and put it in my glove box?  Or will that trick only work on specific styles of the Fluid Drive. As many of you know, even though my column shift lever has an H pattern, pulling towards you and down, does nothing.  All 4 forward gears are away from you.   First and second-up, third and forth-down.  The other part of the equation is the electrics on my Fluid Drive.  If the bolt trick worked, would any of the wiring have to be disconnected or rewired?

 

As a footnote my Fluid Drive works flawlessly thankfully.  But the bolt in the glove box would make for a great conversation piece. 

 

Your FD will not dump on you...you don't need a bolt in the glove box.

If it's leaking though you do have a problem that needs fixing...new seal and maybe a bellows.

FD couplings in the 1946-8 cars are pretty darn reliable.

I have had my 48 Chrysler and others for over 40 years with no FD issues at all.

[harmony]

5 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Your FD will not dump on you...you don't need a bolt in the glove box.

If it's leaking though you do have a problem that needs fixing...new seal and maybe a bellows.

FD couplings in the 1946-8 cars are pretty darn reliable.

I have had my 48 Chrysler and others for over 40 years with no FD issues at all.

I did check the fluid level when I bought it a few years ago, no sign of leakage since then.  But out of curiosity, I can't remember (refer to brain clutter reference above) do I check it when it's cold or warmed up?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Check it cold. Pressure builds up in the FD coupling when hot. Not a good idea to check it hot?

[Tom Skinner]

OK,

Call me an old fart. Why in gods name would anyone Bastardize a Fluid Drive that can be repaired properly unless they are just scared of doing something right?

Buy the Tools. In all my years. Can anyone tell me why everything has to go to the lowest common denominator. I don't care kick me off this site if necessary. In gods name fix it properly. Or we are all doomed to melt down to the lowest levels of intelligence, until Kingdoms Come. 

Putting Bolts in a Fluid Drive to Lock it up? Oh Boy Lets just drink a case of Beer and Jump off a Bridge.

Where do you people live in the Appalachians?

Man Do your thing - Ignorantly as it may be. 

Tom Skinner 

Huntersville NC

[Tom Skinner]

Or Better put:

Lord preserve us and protect us - we have been drinking Whiskey for Breakfast. Mike Cross North Carolina.

Tom

[Sam Buchanan]

Well Tom.......tell us what you really think........   ?

 

My dog's not in this hunt....manual tranny in my P15.

[Tom Skinner]

OK Sam I will play it again.

What song will be playing when they stick that bolt into the Fluid Drive to ameliorate it?

Dueling Banjos from Deliverance?

Tom

[Adam H P15 D30]

More like an upgrade...  When my fluid coupling gives out, this is exactly what I am going to do or (hold your breath) a T5

I'll be playing "One Piece At A Time" by Johnny Cash while I am using the gas axe.

Edited February 24, 2023 by Adam H P15 D30