MarcDeSoto Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 I have not wired my car yet, and I want to get the engine started before I put the body back on, just to see how it runs. I know I need to install the water pump, radiator, starter, generator, distributor, coil, fuel pump, fuel tank, and primary and secondary ignition wiring. Do I also need to install the voltage regulator now just to start it? Quote
TodFitch Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 You can start and run an old points and condenser car on the battery alone. Can probably run it all day as long as you don’t have heavy loads like headlights. Actually on newer ones too: Back in the 1980s my alternator failed west of Vegas coming back from Colorado. Drove it all the way home in the LA metro area on the battery. You need the generator or at least something there to properly tension the fan belt. But as long as there is no field current it should just spin along just fine with no damage. 2 Quote
TodFitch Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 p.s. Marc, When do you think you will get around to starting the engine? You are probably about 50 miles by road from me and it has been a while since I’ve had my old Plymouth out of town. . . Quote
James_Douglas Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 Marc, You can also just stick a garden house in the intake of the water pump and run a long house off the top so it does not splash and run it for a 10 minutes like that without any issue. I have done this on several occasions. The only down side is that you waste water and once you shut it down you have to kill the cold water at the same time and not try it again until the block is cold. James Quote
Sniper Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 8 hours ago, TodFitch said: You need the generator or at least something there to properly tension the fan belt. The leg off an old pair of panty hose tied around the water pump and crank pulley will suffice, BTDT. The only three electrical items you need are the battery, ignition system and the starter. Quote
Bob Riding Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 Marc, please post pics of your setup. I am thinking of building an engine-run stand as I plan to pull and swap engines between my '40 wagon and '56 wagon. The '56 has the 132 hp 230 with the 2bbl power pack option, which I drove briefly before the wiring gave out, and it was a big improvement over the P18 motor I have running in the '40 now. I am running 2 single bbl Carters now, and it will be interesting to see the difference. I found this video on building a wooden engine stand Wood Engine Test Run - Break In Stand - DIY but it wasn't designed specifically for the Mopar flathead 6, but an Austin Healey. Anyone build a wooden stand and have pics? I would also install a radiator, so I could run it for awhile and hook it up to my Atlas Motor Analyzer. 2 Quote
sidevalvepete Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 Love the look of this.....and of course it's functional. Will put it on my bucket list to have a similar one in the workshop next to my old sidevalve ? Quote
Bob Riding Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 They are still out there. This one came from my cousin's auto shop as it had to close. I gave him $50 for it. Everything seems to work. Should be fun playing with it! Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted November 16, 2021 Author Report Posted November 16, 2021 4 hours ago, Sniper said: The leg off an old pair of panty hose tied around the water pump and crank pulley will suffice, BTDT Thanks for the advice, but I don't wear panty hose. 1 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted November 16, 2021 Author Report Posted November 16, 2021 5 hours ago, TodFitch said: p.s. Marc, When do you think you will get around to starting the engine? You are probably about 50 miles by road from me and it has been a while since I’ve had my old Plymouth out of town. . . I'm thinking I'd be ready to start it in about two weeks. Email me to get my contact info Thanks, Marc. Quote
Loren Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 I wouldn't start it with out the body on. The body will get jealous and will let you know its been offended by developing a rattle that you'll never find! JK You might strap a box to the frame and go for a ride. I would. Just think of how easy it would be to double check stuff. 1 Quote
Bob Riding Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 11 minutes ago, Loren said: I wouldn't start it with out the body on. The body will get jealous and will let you know its been offended by developing a rattle that you'll never find! JK You might strap a box to the frame and go for a ride. I would. Just think of how easy it would be to double check stuff. Milk cases work well. Probably drove 10 miles around the neighborhood over many days, testing and fine tuning. need googles if you windshield is gone, however... Quote
Los_Control Posted November 16, 2021 Report Posted November 16, 2021 FWIW, my truck needs completely re-wired. I currently use the key switch to start it, but the voltage regulator, lights, everything else is disabled. Runs fine, simply does not charge the battery while running. Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted November 17, 2021 Author Report Posted November 17, 2021 Yes, I've ridden in some Model Ts sitting on milk crates and watching the street go by below. I thought, boy are Model Ts a primitive car! I can just see the reaction of some of the mothers on my street with me driving around a bare chassis without any lights or bumpers just missing their toddlers playing in the street. I better have some good brakes! I didn't know bodies got jealous! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 so you folks are insured to be out and about in this state of build? I get builders insurance but does not cover street operation....covers all event and such while undergoing work in the shop but not on the street...as you advance in your repair so can you up the coverage and stay abreast of the investment of time and money. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 I used to use this same machine in 1972 at an "Enco" gas station... The machine was brand new as was the service station. Quote
Bob Riding Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I used to use this same machine in 1972 at an "Enco" gas station... The machine was brand new as was the service station. I haven't used it yet. I have the operators manual, but not sure what tests I should be running to diagnose issues. What did you mostly use it for? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 Cylinder balance tests, oscilloscope secondary voltage readings, typical point dwell, rpm and timing ect. I don't remember all tests it could do but it was the machine in it's day. Boy that's been almost 50 years ago.? Quote
Bob Riding Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 1 minute ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Cylinder balance tests, oscilloscope secondary voltage readings, typical point dwell, rpm and timing ect. I don't remember all tests it could do but it was the machine in it's day. Boy that's been almost 50 years ago.? Very cool. I will check it out! One feature that I thought was neat, was the 3 way toggle switch: Off/On with lights/lights only. The manual said the lights-only setting was so you could put it in the store window at night so that everyone could see that you had the latest/greatest machine! Quote
Sniper Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 I remember taking shop in 79 and we had a fancy Sun Computer II, I believe the shop teacher told us it cost $10k, back then. ? I believe that was more than my old man's yearly take home salary and he had a union job at the steel mill. This one sold for $88 https://www.purplewave.com/auction/100630A/item/8511 Quote
James_Douglas Posted November 17, 2021 Report Posted November 17, 2021 I still have these kicking around... 1 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted November 18, 2021 Author Report Posted November 18, 2021 Bob, I should say in reference to your comment on engine stands, that my engine is installed in the chassis, not on a stand. 1 Quote
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