Engine Rebuild Questions

[keithb7]

I thought maybe, I could do it without starting a new thread. Not so. 
 

During disassembly of my engine I took many photos along the way. I did not take every possible photo.  I took the engine apart in November 2020. Here I am 11 months later. 
 

Flywheel mounting bolts to crank. Do I have it right as seen in the photo here? Bolts inserted at seal side of flange.  Or do the bolts go in from the flywheel side? Nuts at the crank seal side? 
 

 

 

[keithb7]

I’m thinking like this?

Crank is in, preliminary torqued. Spins nice! Headed out now for some more Plasti-gage. 
Checking mains clearance next.  Mains were cut down 0.010

 

Edited October 15, 2021 by keithb7

[keithb7]

Aha! I Kept digging. I Found this photo I took about 1.5 years ago. 
 

My images above are incorrect. The Notch cut in the bolt head contacts a groove cut in flywheel. This Stops it from from turning while torquing down.  As installed above, that can’t happen. Will twist when attempting to torque. 

Taking them back out…☺️

 

Edited October 15, 2021 by keithb7

[RobertKB]

You can NEVER take too many pictures!! Glad you got it sorted. 
 

PS……you probably already know this, but use lots of high quality assembly lube on moving parts. 

Edited October 15, 2021 by RobertKB

[keithb7]

Thanks. You bet. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, keithb7 said:

Aha! I Kept digging. I Found this photo I took about 1.5 years ago. 
 

My images above are incorrect. The Notch cut in the bolt head contacts a groove cut in flywheel. This Stops it from from turning while torquing down.  As installed above, that can’t happen. Will twist when attempting to torque. 

Taking them back out…☺️

 

Whoopsie...

Now ya gotta pull the main cap.

[keithb7]

23 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Whoopsie...

Now ya gotta pull the main cap.

It was only mocked up for fitment In the pic. Not final torqued.  I have to go back in and get the rear main seal pieces installed too before the final torque. 
 

Measured .0015” main bearing clearance on mains #1 and 2. Looking good there. 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

The flywheel should have a recess for the half cut head pflywheel bolts.

Is the rear seal a rope type or steel plates with molded rubber lip?

[keithb7]

My rear seal is 2 steel plate halves that bolt down,with moulded rubber lips. Any tips on its installation are appreciated. 

[keithb7]

Exciting next steps. I’ll enjoy this part of reassembly. Hoping I get it right!

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by keithb7

[keithb7]

I was searching this thread to add the above photo. I saw this cool coincidence. 
 

The stars are aligned. Luck will be on my side. I’ll get it right! Lol. 
 

 

[keithb7]

I learned today that I mis-interpreted the proper orientation of the piston pin c-clips. I put the sharp squared side toward the piston pin. Apparently that's incorrect. Today I'll be removing pistons again, and flipping c-clips 180 degrees. The smooth, rounded edge is supposed to go towards the piston pin. 

 

Better now than after a failure! I'm not too far into reassembly at this point thankfully. Just need to release rod caps and eject pistons again. 

Added my experience to the "Engine Rebuilding Gotchas" thread.

 

Still learning....

Edited November 12, 2021 by keithb7

[Bryan]

Good you're letting us know.  I might be getting there in several weeks.  Got to get the engine out first. How did you find out the correct orientation?  

[keithb7]

I read this, here on this web site:

https://auto.jepistons.com/blog/wrist-pin-locks-different-types-and-how-to-install-them

 

Snap Rings

Generally Tru Arcs are the easiest to install and are more popular in lighter duty applications. The snap ring or Tru Arc is easily installed using dedicated pliers. The tips of these pliers fit into the holes at the ends of the snap ring. When the pliers handles are squeezed, the snap ring compresses enough to firmly seat into the retaining groove on the piston. A word of caution: snap rings are manufactured with a smooth and rough side. Be sure the smooth side faces the wrist pin.

[Merle Coggins]

That's a standard "good practice" for any snap ring. Due to the way they are stamped out of a larger sheet of material it leaves a rounded edge on one side and a sharper edge on the other side. Always put the sharp edge side so that any thrust load will press it against the groove. It gives slightly more surface area to hold the ring in place against thrust force.  

[Los_Control]

Hey Kieth, saw the piston video the other day. I was curious if you did insert the new rings in the cylinder and measure the gap before installing?

 

You know insert the ring in bore, use a piston to push it down a few inches and square it up.  Then use feeler gauge to check the ring gap to see if in tolerance.

 

Seems if they were a little wide not a big deal, but if they are too tight ... then when hot they expand and close the gap and break the ring landings on the pistons.

If they are too tight, use a file and open the gap up to get correct tolerances.

 

Just seems like a good step to include on your video. I do not know if your bores were changed, or just honed out ... todays poor fitment of cheap replacement parts, I would check it.

 

Maybe others will have a different opinion, is this only done on race engines or flathead Ferds?

[keithb7]

@Los_ControlI did measure my ring gap. I was in spec at 0.013".  If I recall spec is .007-.015 I forgot to record that step. I did talk about it in my video.

 

I just completed the re-work. All pistons removed. C-clips re-installed properly. All pistons & rods re-installed.

Editing my video next to make it correct.

Edited November 13, 2021 by keithb7

[soth122003]

Good Job on the video Keith. Saw where you were putting the C-Clips for the piston pins in backwards and was going to forward you a reminder, but someone beat me to it. Also saw where you donated a little blood to the rebuild gods. Your engine and car will be happy with the sacrifice.

Something else to consider when rebuilding an engine, it doesn't matter what you have rebuilt before whether it is a dragster or a lawn mower, the basics of engine rebuilds remain the same. The only difference is the scale. To paraphrase an old movie, "Flying an airplane is a lot like riding a bike. It's just a lot harder to put playing cards in the spokes." Robert Stack from Airplane.

 

Joe Lee

[keithb7]

Thanks @soth122003 . I am enjoying the project. I probably should be working with gloves on. I’ve tried. I can’t seem to get used to them. I like my touch senses triggering my brain when wrenching. 
 

 

[keithb7]

I was watching a YT video recently where a fellow was slapping together a flathead Mopar engine. Record time. All-in, a 20 video. Lol. I could learn ffom this…Anyway. His pistons at TDC did not appear to be even with the block deck height.  Is this the case in some Mopar engines? Seems to me compression would be pretty low. As seen here my piston tops are deck height. #1 & 6 is at TDC here. 
 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2021 by keithb7

[kencombs]

Most engines have the pistons slightly below deck, the amount of slightly will vary a lot brand to brand.  And vary some engine to engine.  Especially if aftermarket parts are involved.  I think my 230 with rebuilder pistons was about .006.   But, with .060 off the head it doesn't matter much!

[Sniper]

Virtually all Mopar engines I have messed with have been below deck engines.  Some horribly so.