Carter B&B replacement

[38plymouth]

I'm getting tired of my original carb. I have stripped holes and a worn throttle shaft. I have rebuilt it so many times over the last 20 years. My car has a split manifold with the heat riser welded and dual exhaust. I can't get the car to run great unless the choke is half closed. I want a new easy to adjust carb that I can change the jets and get the engine to run perfect. I'm looking at langdons carb but wondered if anyone found anything else that works well. 

[Tom Skinner]

I bought 3 on ebay before I hi=t a really good one. Do It!

[plymouthcranbrook]

I used the Langdon’s two barrel set up on my 52 Plymouth. My carb was like yours, basically shot. The Langdons is a bit of a pia to install(not terrible, just  need to pay attention).  I couldn’t be happier. Some have said they re jetted  theirs but I didn’t have to.   Tom will call you and discuss your order before filling it so if you have any questions you can get answers from the source.

[38plymouth]

I'm not going with another b&b. I need to be able to change the jets. How hard is it to change them on the langdons? 

[allbizz49]

I've had/have single carter ball and ball and duasl that run great. Fire up just touching the key. Idle perfect, good response. Maybe you have other issues. I like Strombergs too, 97s,81's. Those weber carbs are probably good but look like 70's pinto junk. Shoot, a pair of 1904 Holley glass bowl single barrels would probably be nice. Good luck on whichever way you go. 

Edited October 5, 2021 by allbizz49

[plymouthcranbrook]

3 hours ago, 38plymouth said:

I'm not going with another b&b. I need to be able to change the jets. How hard is it to change them on the langdons? 

https://empius.com/instructions/99-4039-0.pdf

 

 

This is the one I have. don't know for sure if that is all he sells.

Edited October 5, 2021 by plymouthcranbrook

[38plymouth]

9 hours ago, allbizz49 said:

I've had/have single carter ball and ball and duasl that run great. Fire up just touching the key. Idle perfect, good response. Maybe you have other issues. I like Strombergs too, 97s,81's. Those weber carbs are probably good but look like 70's pinto junk. Shoot, a pair of 1904 Holley glass bowl single barrels would probably be nice. Good luck on whichever way you go. 

My issue is that you can't rejet the b and B carb. My runs way lean so I have to run it with the choke halfway closed.

[Sniper]

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.  Lots of people running B&B's without being lean.  So something is amiss and if it is a vacuum leak a new carb won't fix that.

[38plymouth]

9 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.  Lots of people running B&B's without being lean.  So something is amiss and if it is a vacuum leak a new carb won't fix that.

 

I have searched for a vacuum leak for years and have never found anything. The car runs great but only with the choke half closed. The issue started after adding the split manifold and dual exhaust. I'm also tired of the stripped screws and leaky throttle shaft. I'm ready to try something new.

[Loren]

My 49 has a Stromberg replacement for the B & B. I was told by the P.O. that the car's original maintainer said they started better than the B & B.

I can't confirm that but it does run very nicely and I have had no trouble starting. In my stuff I have three intake manifolds, a Thickstun, an Edmunds and an Offenhauser. I had an opportunity to buy two NOS Strombergs so I jumped on it. The nice thing about the Stromberg is that the inlet is on the side instead of the front, which makes fitting them on a dual manifold much easier and cleaner looking. eBay is my source of choice for carburetors because you can get NOS ones and once in a while they come with the mount for an Overdrive switch. I managed to get a Bendix-Stromberg WW with the switch bracket and the throttle lever was made for the Overdrive Kick Down, brand new in the box. This would be the ideal carburetor for the "Power Pak" manifold if I could find one.

 

Tom Langdon likes the Pinto Weber because it is a progressive type with a small bore for economy and a bigger bore for power, I think it's too small.  Other 6 cylinder guys are into a Rochester carburetor. I can't judge those because of a lack of experience with them.

For performance I've had real good luck and thus more experience with the WW. I first used them on 1.7 liter SAAB V4 (Ford of Germany) engines. They were used on a surprising number of American V8s from Studebaker, GM stuff, and lots of Mopars including the previously mentioned Power-Pak flathead Plymouth. That is a testament to their versatility. 104 cid to 318 cid is a pretty wide range. I believe that single WW gave a 230cid Plymouth 107hp in 1956. Because they use the same jets as a Stromberg 97 they are real easy to tune.

 

 

So what would I do if I had a B & B that was shot?

I think I'd do what they did in the 1950s....replace it with a new Stromberg. The only issue is moving the fuel line to the side inlet by putting in a 90 degree street ell (which comes in the box). Otherwise they are made to fit. 

Or you could get an adaptor and use a WW on the stock manifold for a wanna be Power-Pak.

[Kilgore47]

On 10/5/2021 at 6:06 AM, 38plymouth said:

 

I have searched for a vacuum leak for years and have never found anything. The car runs great but only with the choke half closed. The issue started after adding the split manifold and dual exhaust. I'm also tired of the stripped screws and leaky throttle shaft. I'm ready to try something new.

Check the base of your carb.  I have had recent problems with the P15 and found that the base of the carb was warped enough to create a vacuum leak.  Used a large flat file to draw file the base until it was flat enough to seal.  Also made new gaskets with a larger sealing area at the spacer.

[cheesy]

Interesting.

I ran a pair Holley 1904 carbs on my 1952 Ford F2 215 six cylinder. My SIL now has the truck so I know where there is a stash of extra carbs. And I know them inside and out.

 

(wonders to self, How could I make the M6 work with this?)

[Doug&Deb]

If you figure out how to make the M6 work with the Holley’s let us know. 

[Bob Riding]

I have the Power Pack 2bbl setup (from a stock '56 Suburban) and from what I can tell, with the WW Stromberg, it is rated at 132hp.

[Worden18]

I have Langdon's Empi 32/36 on my 51 Dodge Meadowbrook and on my 48 B1C truck.  No issues.  Glad I made the switch.

[49D-24BusCpe]

 

    I have three of Tom Langdon's ('83 Ford Escort 1.6) Carter-Webber 32/32 DFT carbs on an A-O-K intake, on my '90 274" DeVal.

 

    The fuel flow demand for my engine is very close to three Escorts! I've never had to re-jet them, and I've run the car in 25 thru 105 degree weather, and at altitudes from 500' up to my current 3400' elevation.

 

     These were a "no brainer" for me, for the following reasons;

1) Configuration was perfect for a siamese port Chrysler 25" flathead engine.

2) Desirable 2-bbl set-up for low and high-speed drivability.

3) Fuel flow was within the 'right range'.

4) Brand new NOS units.

5) They were priced RIGHT - $95 a piece!

 

    Unfortunately, they are no longer available, although Tom does have spare part for them.

 

 

[38plymouth]

On 10/4/2021 at 7:08 PM, plymouthcranbrook said:

I used the Langdon’s two barrel set up on my 52 Plymouth. My carb was like yours, basically shot. The Langdons is a bit of a pia to install(not terrible, just  need to pay attention).  I couldn’t be happier. Some have said they re jetted  theirs but I didn’t have to.   Tom will call you and discuss your order before filling it so if you have any questions you can get answers from the source.

Any pics of the carb installed? Im curious of the height when installed with the adapter and also the linkage. 

[maok]

I have the Langdons conversion on both my mopars, '36 Airstream (241ci) and '37 Dodge MC tourer (218ci) both needed re jetting but I live in the subtropics.

 

With the Airstream I needed to remove the manual choke assembly off the carb because it was making contact with the side of the hood.

 

And in both the choke cable is a little too short.

 

Once tuned correctly, they work very well with an electric fuel pump.

Edited October 6, 2021 by maok

[plymouthcranbrook]

5 hours ago, 38plymouth said:

Any pics of the carb installed? Im curious of the height when installed with the adapter and also the linkage. 

I will see if I can get a few in the next couple of days. I bought the complete set up.(carb, adaptor, air cleaner and throttle setup). I used a manual choke and the only odd thing is that for it to work right I had to drill two small holes through the  heater box to run the cable through. Not a big deal but odd.  The instructions speak about welding the throttle linkage together but mine screwed to the old one no problem. Another thing that is a pain is the mounting of the adaptor to the manifold is a bit difficult due to the supports of the adaptor,. You kind of have to balance the adaptor on the manifold to start the nuts. Then all is ok.  Like most projects you have to think about it a little but when done it really works well.

Edited October 7, 2021 by plymouthcranbrook

[plymouthcranbrook]

Here is the first pic.  One of the linkage.

[plymouthcranbrook]

Here is the second pic.  Looks like one at a time is all I can do.

 

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

#3. 
 

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

#4. 
 

 

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

#5

 

 

 

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

#6. I did not take the air cleaner off as it is a bit of a project but if more pics will help I can do it early next week.  I tried to concentrate on the linkage as you said that was a main interest.  Let me know if I can help further

 

 

 

Edited October 9, 2021 by plymouthcranbrook