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Carburetor Circuits


keithb7

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4 hours ago, greg g said:

I find a mix of black sabbath and the 1812 ovature effective.

Yeah,I can see how that would work good!

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3 hours ago, Sniper said:

Well, For Those About To Rock by AC/DC does have cannons

Not much shakes up stuff more than cannons!

 

I do believe it is the 1812 Overture that has the cannons,though.

Edited by knuckleharley
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1 hour ago, knuckleharley said:

Not much shakes up stuff more than cannons!

 

I do believe it is the 1812 Overture that has the cannons,though.

 

They both have cannons, which is why I mentioned For those about to rock

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8 hours ago, Sniper said:

Yes, the green arrow i where it is.

 

I used Simple Green and water in my heated ultrasonic cleaner.  Took maybe an hour to heat up to 50C while ultrasonic cleaning it.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/carb-rebuild

What proportion of simple green to water do you use?  

 

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12 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

The "Story of the Carburetor" Mr Tech is a very good watch if available online.

Sorry for the sideways pics.

20210529_072934_compress13.jpg

20210529_072908_compress36.jpg

These Master Tech videos are awesome.  I've bookmarked everyone of them that pertains to my car.  I also have the paper versions that I've made into a binder/book.  Just like back in high school.

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I'm fortunate enough to have 4 carbs for my car (Carter B&B EV1). I've bought rebuilt kits for two so that I have a spare in the trunk ready to go if I need it.  My particular carb has an internal dashpot. So it actually looks like it has two accelerator pumps. When I installed the plungers with the leather boot, even after soaking them, there is still a lot of side play.  When driving, I find if I give it quick acceleration, just after making a slow corner for example, I get nothing, If I don't feather the gas pedal immediately the car will quit.  I've had the suspicion that the leather boot isn't expanding perfectly. 

I'm just thinking that since your car hasn't been used too much that perhaps that leather boot on the accelerator pump has dried up a bit Keith

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10 hours ago, kencombs said:

Those work great.   But be careful with the strength of an alkaline cleaning solution.  Simple green for instance with badly discolor some white metals quickly. My wife used real in jewelry at our. Store.   I used her cleaner more than she did. 

Ditto on not using Simple Green. I ruined a carb in the ultrasonic cleaner using Simple Green. Stripped off whatever protective coating was on the carb, and the exposed metal kept growing white powdery junk. Personally, I'll stick to Gumout from now on.

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3 minutes ago, ratbailey said:

Ditto on not using Simple Green. I ruined a carb in the ultrasonic cleaner using Simple Green. Stripped off whatever protective coating was on the carb, and the exposed metal kept growing white powdery junk. Personally, I'll stick to Gumout from now on.

Which type of Gumout do you use?  Is there one designed for ultrasonic cleaners?  Do you dilute it?

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3 minutes ago, harmony said:

Which type of Gumout do you use?  Is there one designed for ultrasonic cleaners?  Do you dilute it?

Sorry...what I meant is no more dunking carbs in ultrasonic cleaners for me. I cleaned the spare BB I had with Gumout, acetone and elbow grease, and it worked out fine. 

Edited by ratbailey
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2 minutes ago, ratbailey said:

Sorry...what I meant is no more dunking carbs in ultrasonic cleaners for me. Squirt the heck out of it with Gumout, or dunk in acetone. The Chrysler tech bulletin on carbs even says to keep water away from the carbs, or they do exactly what mine did, which is oxidize and jam up the holes with crud. Should've read that first.

I've tried simple green, pine sol, acetone,  and lacquer thinners.  I blow out with air after soaking over night but I still seem to have slight residue, inside the carb parts like in the float bowl etc.  I've thought about getting an ultra sonic cleaner for years.

Sorry Keith I don't mean to be drifting away from the topic.

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8 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

What is "real"?

We have common dishwashing soap here called "Real".

dishwashing soap will also do.

 

Using carb cleaners and other acidic chemical formula beats the idea of these cleaners. Fluid in ultrasonic cleaners is just for dirt to be able to flow away when subject is bombarded and resonance occur. Water could be used but no one wants water left in carb, so alkaline fluids ( opposite of acidic solvents) will not affect carbs.

If any soap is left in small channels after thoroughly blowing with compressed air is left, when mixed with fuel, they get neutralized.

Edited by chrysler1941
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Oil Eater works excellent in the Ultrasonic box.

Cleaned a lot of parts including carbs.

Excellent for cleaning grease out from under the nails too.

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9 hours ago, harmony said:

What proportion of simple green to water do you use?  

 

 

Maybe a cup per gallon of water.  , mostly it was time, heat and the buzzing of the ultrasonic cleaner that sis the trick.  SG is safe for aluminum, especially the aviation type of SG.

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Aha. More clues. A definite air leak here at the carb mounting adaptor plate. 
 

2 points for Mr Desoto Hartung. 
 

 

00987FBE-CE8F-45EA-A9D1-49265E2E3801.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
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Oops.    Stuff happens as some say.

 

Try, try again.

 

DJ

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Troubleshooting, finding and fixing this stuff is so fun. Rewarding. Addicting. It gives me a little natural high. Some  Purpose. It Feels good. This small win exemplifies pretty well, why I am into old cars.
 

Fingers crossed this find and fix offers some improvement! 

Edited by keithb7
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11 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Troubleshooting, finding and fixing this stuff is so fun. Rewarding. Addicting. It gives me a little natural high. Some  Purpose. It Feels good. This small win exemplifies pretty well, why I am into old cars.
 

Fingers this find and fix offers some improvement! 

Amen,brother,amen!

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I bought a gallon of Barrymans carb soaker. It comes in a paint  can type container and has a plastic strainer for small parts. Over night in that and stuff comes out amazingly clean been finishing up with brake clean and compressed ait.  Gloves and safety goggles strongly recommended.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/B-9-Chem-Dip-Parts-Cleaner-w-Basket-and-Armlock/226784113?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=15321&&adid=22222222227311868762&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=390072145599&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-829702952085&wl5=9005095&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=125215384&wl11=online&wl12=226784113&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIirWt-LTy8AIVy8DICh138g2XEAQYCCABEgIUf_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited by greg g
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Test drive results:

 

Dead spot just off idle is gone. Great results.

 

I am losing a some power at high rpm. I can feel it. On another web site a member mentioned that the Holly fuel pressure regulator will cause a leaner condition. If that’s true, maybe I’ll set the float to be  a little richer. Maybe the bowl can’t deliver enough fuel at high load and rpm. I’ll play with my timing a bit first. I been screwing with it a fair bit over the past few days troubleshooting.  
 

Getting closer! 

Edited by keithb7
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The more I dig in I, keep finding more interesting stuff. 
 

At the red arrow, on the top of the accelerator pump spring, the round brass retainer cover was absent. 
 

Under the screw-in cover seen at the green arrow. Down in there is an accelerator pump discharge check ball. The ball was there but someone had a fine small spring jammed between the screw-in cover, and the check ball. That spring would have been forcing, retaining the ball down into it’s seat. According to my paperwork its not supposed to be there. 
 

More test driving. It keeps getting better.  High RPM still feels a little off. During test driving I am hearing a little backfire on occasion too. Seems to happen only on deceleration. Not often. Adjusting timing seems to have no effect on the high rpm stumble or a backfire.  Might be lean on fuel? Adjusting float had no effect either. Hmm. 

 

New points and condenser are on the menu. Those parts in the car are well worn and of unknown time in service. Replacement  is part of my overall ground-level reset. Might as well put those in next and see what develops.  Then go from there. 
 

B5957BA2-1205-4DBE-BED6-3B46FEA5EE65.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
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10 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

The more I dig in I, keep finding more interesting stuff. 
 

At the red arrow, on the top of the accelerator pump spring, the round brass retainer cover was absent. 
 

Under the screw-in at the green arrow. There is an accelerator pump discharge check ball. The ball was there but someone had a fine small spring jammed between the screw-in cover, and the check ball. That spring would have been forcing, retaining the ball down into it’s seat. According to my paperwork its not supposed to be there. 
 

More test driving. It keeps getting better.  High RPM still feels a little off. During test driving I am hearing a little backfire on occasion too. Not often.

 

New points and condenser are on the menu. Those parts in the car are well worn and of unknown time in service. Replacement  is part of my overall ground-level reset. Might as well put those in next and see what develops.  Then go from there. 

B5957BA2-1205-4DBE-BED6-3B46FEA5EE65.jpeg

Re: green arrow.  Quite right, no spring there.  The ball should be 3/16" dia.  Sounds like whoever was into that carb wasn't sure about things so you might want to check the dia. of the ball at the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber under that clip.  That one should be 5/32" dia.  They might have switched them by mistake.

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Is that a small BB check ball resting in that channel to the right side of the green arrow, behind the accel. pump?

 

That May be the one that sits under the accel. pump under the left side of the bottom of the hole in the accel. pump bore in a small recess?

Maybe just the pic.?

 

Depends on size as mentioned- they are Not the same.

 

DJ

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Where is your acc. pump linkage set.  If I recall there is a choice of three position notches which determines the pumps length of travel. Is your step up plunger and rod moving smoothly and traveling it's full stroke.

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15 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Test drive results:

 

Dead spot just off idle is gone. Great results.

 

I am losing a some power at high rpm. I can feel it. On another web site a member mentioned that the Holly fuel pressure regulator will cause a leaner condition. If that’s true, maybe I’ll set the float to be  a little richer. Maybe the bowl can’t deliver enough fuel at high load and rpm. I’ll play with my timing a bit first. I been screwing with it a fair bit over the past few days troubleshooting.  
 

Getting closer! 

Personally I don't understand why you haven't junked the regulator yet. 

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